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Hey all, its me again. I starting tearing down my salvage yard 5.0 today (going to swap into my 1994 f150 sb 2wd). Its a tired roller 5.0 (out of a 94 truck supposedly) with 166,000 miles but everything I've seen so far looks pretty good, normal wear. 3 questions for now (you all have answered a bunch already and I know there will be more)
1. Is there anyway to identify whether or not this engine had mass air? I dont have the intake piping from the air filter to intake where I believe the mass air sensor would have been.
2. Since I'm doing a cam change and this truck is going to be a 'fun' truck for me and my kid should I even worry about setting up mass air?
3. Is it a good bet it has the E7 heads? How do I tell? I did a search and didnt come up with anything. Whats generally more cost effective, getting GT40 heads or having the stock heads reworked?
The flow charts that Conanski posted in the other thread were very telling!
I guess thats really about 6 questions but thanks anyway. I would be struggling without this site...
1. Is there anyway to identify whether or not this engine had mass air? I dont have the intake piping from the air filter to intake where I believe the mass air sensor would have been.
There's no way to tell and it doesn't really matter, the motor will run fine on either an SD or MAF computer.
Originally Posted by Hillcapper
2. Since I'm doing a cam change and this truck is going to be a 'fun' truck for me and my kid should I even worry about setting up mass air?
MAF will cost you more money, but it will perform better and opens the door to a greater variety of options. MAF won't get you any more peak HP than SD though, so it's not absolutely necessary, you can make big power on SD with carefull selection of parts. But if you bolt-on enough to require bigger injectors then you really don't have much choice but to go to mass air.
Originally Posted by Hillcapper
3. Is it a good bet it has the E7 heads? How do I tell? I did a search and didnt come up with anything. Whats generally more cost effective, getting GT40 heads or having the stock heads reworked?
Get a small mirror and look under the heads(assuming they are still on the motor) near the central intake ports, that's where the casting number is. It's a very good chance you have the E7 heads. Unless you do the work yourself it's more cost effective to get GT40s.
P.S. Be aware the more you make the motor flow with head work and high flow intakes the further up the powerband moves, so be prepared to re-gear to compensate. The stock 5.0 doesn't have much low end grunt(below 2500rpm) and high flow components soften that even further.
Thanks Paul, going to keep this 302 fairly mild (hopefully 300 hp though). I still have to get a computer and engine wiring harness.
I think I'll go with SD, so do I have to be sure and get an SD computer (is there a difference in computers) and harness off of a donor truck?
You have a cam recommendation for this engine and SD? We want to stay w/ standard injectors. Are 1.7 rockers worth the investment?
I would love to port the heads myself and I understand the concept. I've rebuilt engines in the past (big diesels) but have never tried porting and polishing. Any good links for general instructions?
Figure on regearing anyway, currently running a 2.73.
I think I'll go with SD, so do I have to be sure and get an SD computer (is there a difference in computers) and harness off of a donor truck?.
The earlier EFI trucks were all SD.. everything before '93 I think. But if you can locate a later MAF truck with a manual go for it.. you're buying these parts anyway. You just don't want anything from a '96 F150 or one with an electronic tranny.
Originally Posted by Hillcapper
You have a cam recommendation for this engine and SD? We want to stay w/ standard injectors. Are 1.7 rockers worth the investment?.
Comp 35-349-8 with 1.6 rockers, that's as much lift as the E7TE head can use.
Originally Posted by Hillcapper
I would love to port the heads myself and I understand the concept. I've rebuilt engines in the past (big diesels) but have never tried porting and polishing. Any good links for general instructions?.
Hemieater has some good stuff. Google "porting E7's" on the net, should get you some info. On a 5.0 you really don't want to do too much with the intake side, just clean it up. You want to completely rework the exhaust side, pocket port, remove the air injection hump, smooth the walls and roof and open the ports to the gaskets.. the flow numbers on these heads should tell you why.
Get a small mirror and look under the heads(assuming they are still on the motor) near the central intake ports, that's where the casting number is. It's a very good chance you have the E7 heads.
No need for mirrors. You can Id E7's just by looking at them, there's a "T" cast into the lower front corner of the passenger side head, next to the valve cover. (and in the same, but opposite location of the drivers side head as it's reversed) If there's an "S" here, they'll be E6SE heads. GT40P's have a "P" in this location. SD systems can support anything a MAF system can, only you'll have to have the computer recalibrated for it.
Does that cam choice change with SD or Mass Air or would you do the same cam either way?
I'd use the same cam either way, on a bigger motor you can get away with a longer duration cam, but on the 5.0 in a truck it's all to easy to turn it into a complete screamer that has nothing on the bottom end of the tach.
Originally Posted by Hillcapper
What ratio are the stock rockers? Does going to 1.6 mean new rockers?
Stock rockers are 1.6, roller rockers will reduce friction levels in the valvetrain slightly.. but nothing compared to what the roller cam does. Your call if the $$ are worth it, on a budget build I wouldn't bother.
BTW.. if you are rebuilding the bottom end select pistons for 9.5:1 or so compression ratio, this will do wonders for the TQ curve.
Thanks Paul, your a great help. I'm going with your suggestions. I'm looking at a rebuild kit from Summit with pistions in that range. Thanks baddad for clearing up the head id question. Looks like I do have E7's.
be careful on those kits... I bought one and it came with the shortest compression heigth pistons they make .. it's like 1.5??? They will drop the compression a bunch, I had to buy different pistons so the price went up... either get some 5.0HO forged pistons or some speed pro, TRW H273CP they have huge valve reliefs but they have a 1.608 compression heigth... don't hold me on the heigth numbers can't remember....
I use the 5.0HO forged pistons in my truck they have the highest compresion height of them all... the piston will end up at 0 deck or close to it... The is the piston right at the top of the block... the pistons in those kits will put the piston way down the hole, not good. Just keep this in mind... the closer you get the piston to the head the more compression you can run with out having to use high octane fuel..
All the 302s I have built for performance the piston stick .010 to .015 out of the hole..
this is a motor I built for a 740volvo I was running H273CP pistons .010 above the deck... with a .041 gasket that put the piston .031 from the head. You don't have to go as far as I did (having the block decked) but you can at least get it to the top of the block by just getting the HO pistons...
main thing.. leave the floors alone no need in making the turn down into the cylinder any sharper, just widen them and raise the roof.. blend the bowls in
and your in good shape.. I have done a bunch of heads and it takes a lot of time... so if I was you... and I'm not...lol i would just do the exhaust side. If after you are done and you feel up to it then do the intake.
here's a pic of the intake floor before... check out the sharp edges from where they machined the bowls..
after a little work
It's got to help...
Then I would install 1.9 and 1.6 valves... I had the machine shop just cut the exhaust valves without installing hardened seat. He said when he was done he was still into the factory hardness and I've been running them a while now... no prblems...
pics after he cut the seats and bowls... and a little exhaust work...
after I blened the intake bowl... it was easy, that bowl cutter my machinist has is awesome... makes it easy...
Good point on piston height, compression ratio and octane level. I would definitely like to be able to run regular unleaded. When a piston manufacturer lists 'compression distance' is this what I should be looking for. The ones I'm looking at are Speed Pro ZH273CP30 and compression distance is 1.605. Compression ration 9.08:1.
The ones I'm looking at are Speed Pro ZH273CP30 and compression distance is 1.605. Compression ration 9.08:1.
With what sized combustion chamber and what head gasket? Static compression ratio takes those things into account as well as piston dish volume(or positive displacement above deck height) so you need to know them.
I plan on going with E7 heads ported (maybe GT40's but price must be right) and hopefully stock bore (hasnt been to machine shop yet). I didnt think about head gasket thickness. I was planning on buying a Federal Mogul rebuild kit from Summit (the pistons would be in the kit). It comes with a engine gasket set - Sealed Power R2601445. I couldnt find any details on the head gasket.
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