(*%# checkengine light!!!!!
Thread Starter
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Street Queen to the extr3m3
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,554
Likes: 3
From: Lubbock, Texas
(*%# checkengine light!!!!!
Alright heres the story,
I hop in my truck when its cold. Start it up and no check engine light, at about 3 miles as the check engine light comes on. If i turn the ignition off, and turn it back on, the check engine light is gone. But turns back on in about 2 miles. I can continue to keep stopping doing errands what ever, but the warmer the truck gets the sooner the light turns on. Also, when the clutch is pushed in like to shift, the engine will rev to 2k hold it there a second and the drop back down to about 1200.
I went to autozone they said it was the o2 sensor replaced o2 sensor and still this is happening, can anybody give me a educated guess as to what the problem maybe?
I hop in my truck when its cold. Start it up and no check engine light, at about 3 miles as the check engine light comes on. If i turn the ignition off, and turn it back on, the check engine light is gone. But turns back on in about 2 miles. I can continue to keep stopping doing errands what ever, but the warmer the truck gets the sooner the light turns on. Also, when the clutch is pushed in like to shift, the engine will rev to 2k hold it there a second and the drop back down to about 1200.
I went to autozone they said it was the o2 sensor replaced o2 sensor and still this is happening, can anybody give me a educated guess as to what the problem maybe?
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 617
Likes: 0
From: Los Alamos
Idle air control valve, AKA Throttle Air Bypass.
Just a guess based on what you described, the temp is up over 185*f and that is what controls your idle at that temp/condition. UNLESS your ECT sensor is telling the computer that your over 225*f, or you ARE over 225*f. In that case it will automatically bump your idle UP to burn a richer fuel mixture to cool the cylinders.
But without seeing it in person, that is JUST an educated guess.
Just a guess based on what you described, the temp is up over 185*f and that is what controls your idle at that temp/condition. UNLESS your ECT sensor is telling the computer that your over 225*f, or you ARE over 225*f. In that case it will automatically bump your idle UP to burn a richer fuel mixture to cool the cylinders.
But without seeing it in person, that is JUST an educated guess.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,420
Likes: 3
From: Langhorne, PA
U must pull codes..see fordfuelinjection.com or search FTE.
I should be able to give an educated guess..my truck CE light did the same thing before I overhauled the engine and all hardware strapped to the engine.
Unfortunately I had 4 things wrong at the same time, all I would do is confuse everyone with a guess.http://fordfuelinjection.com/
I should be able to give an educated guess..my truck CE light did the same thing before I overhauled the engine and all hardware strapped to the engine.
Unfortunately I had 4 things wrong at the same time, all I would do is confuse everyone with a guess.http://fordfuelinjection.com/
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 6,473
Likes: 4
From: Lafayette, IN
Leaving the battery wire off to clear the codes in the computer is not necessarily a good way of doing it. The "right" way is to pull whatever jumper is used to read the codes while they are being flashed out. Pulling the battery wire will clear the codes, but it also clears any learning the computer has done and can introduce more variables into the problem solving process.
At this point, you should go to fordfuelinjection.com and learn how to read the codes, then come back here with what they are so people can help you start tracking them down. Also post the particulars on your truck (year, engine, tranny, etc.). Just replacing parts that throw a code is an expensive route to take (too many times I've heard of the HEGO sensor being replaced when it was doing its job--indicating a too rich or too lean condition caused by something else that is wrong).
On edit: I see your particulars are in your sig...
Jason
At this point, you should go to fordfuelinjection.com and learn how to read the codes, then come back here with what they are so people can help you start tracking them down. Also post the particulars on your truck (year, engine, tranny, etc.). Just replacing parts that throw a code is an expensive route to take (too many times I've heard of the HEGO sensor being replaced when it was doing its job--indicating a too rich or too lean condition caused by something else that is wrong).
On edit: I see your particulars are in your sig...
Jason
