dumb question?
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Freshman User
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dumb question?
bronc died again. this time it shut down like the key was pulled. the fuel filter was bone dry. i but when i went to pull it, it made a suction noise and then filled up. now it turns over but wont start. i pulled a plug, but it doent seem to spark. now where do i go from here. and what would make the filter dry out, then refill when i loosened the hose clamp?
1978 302 edelbroke carb.
cap,rotor,plugs,wires,starter solenoid,battery, all have been replaced within the last 6 months. im about to push this thing into lake erie.
1978 302 edelbroke carb.
cap,rotor,plugs,wires,starter solenoid,battery, all have been replaced within the last 6 months. im about to push this thing into lake erie.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: sunny fla sometimes windy
Pull your gas cap off if it isn't venting and allowing air to fill the space when the gas
gets used it creates suction and won't pump. Do you have an electric fuel pump?
How does your primary and secondary windings read on a multimeter?
gets used it creates suction and won't pump. Do you have an electric fuel pump?
How does your primary and secondary windings read on a multimeter?
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
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filter is up next to the carb.pump is on the engine on the drivers side. fuel issue seems to be solved. seems to be getting fuel. does not get any spark though. grounds seem to be fine. plugs and wires are fine. battery has a full charge. i just replaced the starter solenoid. i have a feeling im going to have to strip all the wire shrouds and tape to find a weak link, or fried wire. this sucks.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: sunny fla sometimes windy
Check the resistance on the ignition coil primary and secondary and post the numbers.
If you got a open circuit you got a bad coil. Your fusible links should be checked
with a multimeter since the insulation can be fine but the wire toasted. A safety pin
a multimeter and poking the wire and checking for voltage could be easier then tearing
apart the whole harness to visually inspect the wires. You only need to open up the
harness every 12-15 inches and check then a little dab of RTV silicone to heal the
wire up to prevent corrosion in the future.
If you got a open circuit you got a bad coil. Your fusible links should be checked
with a multimeter since the insulation can be fine but the wire toasted. A safety pin
a multimeter and poking the wire and checking for voltage could be easier then tearing
apart the whole harness to visually inspect the wires. You only need to open up the
harness every 12-15 inches and check then a little dab of RTV silicone to heal the
wire up to prevent corrosion in the future.
