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Locking fuel door or cap?

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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 02:14 PM
  #31  
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Ive got A locking gas cap, but all you got to do to get one off is run a drill bit through it & leave it in there & unscrew.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 02:17 PM
  #32  
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I'll look into this Alvin's Metal Lab and Quicksteel. The quicksteel sounds like the kind of thing I was thinking about. Now to make sure I put a trash bag in the tool box too so I'm not stuck laying in a puddle of diesel to do the repair.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 02:33 PM
  #33  
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Here's the link:

http://www.alvinproducts.com/
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 02:36 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by thedaddycat
Thanks. I was just looking at that. It looks like it is a better product than the quicksteel, but would be harder to apply to the bottom of a tank in a parking lot somewhere.

I'll probably pick up some of each. I'm sure I can find other uses for them.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 03:40 PM
  #35  
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Once i saw 4 dollars a gallon i bought a locking cap from ford. Motorcraft part number FC-935, ford part number F67Z-9030-DA. Its the screw style which your truck should be. It ran me $20.49
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 04:33 PM
  #36  
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I'd rather they get the cap off than mangle the truck trying- just looking to keep the amateurs moving along to find some else's to fool with.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 05:22 PM
  #37  
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From: Central Ma.
Originally Posted by F350-6
I've done it on 99 & 02 diesel trucks. They'll have to spend a long time to siphon 38 gallons out of my tank.

Are the locking gas caps better than they used to be? I know the old ones could be pried off .

I hadn't thought about someone drilling a hole in the tank. Anyone know what the best product would be to patch a hole like this in a parking lot? I could find someone to call to bring me some fuel. Finding a emergency gas tank repair kit on short notice might be a little more difficult. Sounds like something I should pick up and throw in the tool box.
It always depends on the size of the hole the Pr-cks punch in the tank. If you are talking a plastic gas tank. Then a fine threaded sheet metal screw and a rubber washer might do the trick. If you have a steel tank, you are out of luck. The only way to fix that would be to solder a patch over the hole. That means removing the tank and purging it.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 10:19 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by jhrobert
It always depends on the size of the hole the Pr-cks punch in the tank. If you are talking a plastic gas tank. Then a fine threaded sheet metal screw and a rubber washer might do the trick. If you have a steel tank, you are out of luck. The only way to fix that would be to solder a patch over the hole. That means removing the tank and purging it.
Since I've never seen this I'm just speculating, but since most small cordless drills have a 3/8" chuck I'd guess they would use a 3/8" bit. If they're smart they'd use a 1/2" - 1" hole saw to drain it quicker. If they get that big a sheet metal screw would be hard to use. By the way, the sheet metal screw with washer would actually work better on a steel tank (I have plastic) since the threads would be less likely to strip out.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 10:47 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by F350-6
Since I've never seen this I'm just speculating, but since most small cordless drills have a 3/8" chuck I'd guess they would use a 3/8" bit. If they're smart they'd use a 1/2" - 1" hole saw to drain it quicker. If they get that big a sheet metal screw would be hard to use. By the way, the sheet metal screw with washer would actually work better on a steel tank (I have plastic) since the threads would be less likely to strip out.

A plastic tank is much thicker and less likely to strip out. You do not need to crank the screw up super tight on the rubber o-ring or washer. The metal tank is thin metal and will distort when you put the screw in. The seal will be less likely to hold on the steel tank. I tried it once already on a steel tank. It did not work for me with a screw and washer. Another option is that two part epoxy for gas tanks. You mix it up and spread it out. I have used this on a rusted tank and it does work. I do not know if it will work on a good size hole.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 11:28 PM
  #40  
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JB Weld- works on anything!
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 11:35 PM
  #41  
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by NorCalBusa
JB Weld- works on anything!
I thought of that, but I've found that one size fits all usually doesn't. That's why I thought I'd ask the experts. I figure I should have some rags, sandpaper to rough up and clean the surface and something that sticks to plastic that won't come off and drain the small amount of fuel left in the tank on the trip home.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 01:56 AM
  #42  
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I have the stant cap as well. They are cheap, both to buy and construction. To me it's more attractive to not seen a bulky fuel door.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 10:52 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by F350-6
I thought of that, but I've found that one size fits all usually doesn't. That's why I thought I'd ask the experts. I figure I should have some rags, sandpaper to rough up and clean the surface and something that sticks to plastic that won't come off and drain the small amount of fuel left in the tank on the trip home.
That stuff will amaze you! We were motorcycling and one of the guys took a rock hit into the radiator of his R1. I keep a tube of JB Putty* (or whatever its called) on board, so we knead it up and put it on there. Let it set up, about 6 of us pee in the radiator to refill it (we were in the boonies, and had already drank the water we brought) and sha-zam; he's back on the road. About 20 miles to a town, where we dumped and flushed and refilled- good for the entire day! He got home and filed the patch so it looked better, painted it- and is still riding it a year later.

*JB Putty is a two part dealio, but not goopy/runny like normal JB. Looks like a Tootsie Roll, the two parts lay next to each other until you knead them like clay- that activates it. I like it because its easy to shove into a cubbie hole on the bike and not have to worry about a tube rupturing and getting all over. $8 or so, a "must have" for bikes, all the auto parts stores have it.
 
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