Stalling when cold?
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Stalling when cold?
I've got a '95 XLT Shorty 3.0L that just started this.
Unless you let it warm up for 15-20 min, it tries to stall the second you give it gas. After it warms up, it's fine.
Any hints on possible causes?
Thanks.
Unless you let it warm up for 15-20 min, it tries to stall the second you give it gas. After it warms up, it's fine.
Any hints on possible causes?
Thanks.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Kitchener,Ontario,Canada
Originally Posted by Bax2008
I've got a '95 XLT Shorty 3.0L that just started this.
Unless you let it warm up for 15-20 min, it tries to stall the second you give it gas. After it warms up, it's fine.
Any hints on possible causes?
Thanks.
Unless you let it warm up for 15-20 min, it tries to stall the second you give it gas. After it warms up, it's fine.
Any hints on possible causes?
Thanks.
ATB Aeroman
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Originally Posted by 96_4wdr
first, start by pulling codes and please post on forum
what work has been done recently?
my be ECT or TPS
what work has been done recently?
my be ECT or TPS
TPS was changed in November, along with a rebuilt tranny and a tach install. Other than that, no work done.
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Originally Posted by Aeroman59
Engine should warm up in about 5 mins or so..... 15 mins is quite a long time to get warmed up. Is your thermostat working correctly ? or do I recall you just changed it? Does the fan clutch work properly ?
ATB Aeroman
ATB Aeroman
It seems to take additional warm-up time for the engine to not stall.
When it it all the way up to operating temp, no stalling issues until it is cool again.
When the engine is cold/cool, simply putting it into gear will result in a stall.
Feathering the gas up and down seems to help prevent a stall and once moving, no issues. If it's in gear and running all right, trying to accelerate quickly will generate a stall, if engine cold/cool.
If I am starting off in gear, I generally bring up the RPM's with brake on and then no stall occurs when brake released.
*Looking over my subject line, I should specify that I mean stalling with cold/cool engine temp and not outside temp.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Mitchell, SD
There is something funky going on with your tranny. It takes your tranny longer to warm up compared to your engine (hence the 5 mins to warm up your engine, but having to wait 15 minutes (about the time to get the tranny fluid good and warm) before you can go without stalling.
I would take the tranny back to where you got it rebuilt and have them take a look at it. They might have put too big of a TQ converter, something might be sticking, ect.
In the meantime check the condition of your tranny fluid.
I would take the tranny back to where you got it rebuilt and have them take a look at it. They might have put too big of a TQ converter, something might be sticking, ect.
In the meantime check the condition of your tranny fluid.
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Kitchener,Ontario,Canada
Is it because you idle speed is too low (tickover) ? If so you may have a slight mixture problem. Try running some injector cleaner through the tank, the fact that it's O.K. when it's hot makes it unlikely to be an ignition problem. As noted above ECT sensor could be marginal, is the tranmission modulator O.K. changes gears in good time?
Engines are very sensitive to intake air leaks at idle speeds & a cold engine is when this would show up . You can try the old carb cleaner trick to try & locate any intake leaks. I would also check out your fuel pressure, should be about 35-40 PSI at idle.
Engines are very sensitive to intake air leaks at idle speeds & a cold engine is when this would show up . You can try the old carb cleaner trick to try & locate any intake leaks. I would also check out your fuel pressure, should be about 35-40 PSI at idle.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kiev, Ukraine
Not sure about ECT. to be sure measure its voltage and compare with real coolant temperature.
Look for table on fordfuelinjection.com
But usually stuck/clogged IAC cause this problem. Engine stalls, but no codes.
Look for table on fordfuelinjection.com
But usually stuck/clogged IAC cause this problem. Engine stalls, but no codes.
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Posting Guru
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From: Mitchell, SD
When the engine is cold/cool, simply putting it into gear will result in a stall.
If it's in gear and running all right, trying to accelerate quickly will generate a stall, if engine cold/cool.
If I am starting off in gear, I generally bring up the RPM's with brake on and then no stall occurs when brake released.
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Originally Posted by lv2race
Try cleaning it first with carb cleaner, and while you're doing that, spray the throttle body clean too, but chances are with low voltage, it needs to be replaced.
No positive results.
I recently picked up another MAF and will swap it.
Thnx.
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How imperative is it that MAF part #'s match up?
They have 2 numbers each.
My old MAF upper # is F37F-12B579DA, lower # is 4l23.
My wrecker replacement upper # is F37F-12B579DA, lower # is 4E27.
Are they interchangeable?
They have 2 numbers each.
My old MAF upper # is F37F-12B579DA, lower # is 4l23.
My wrecker replacement upper # is F37F-12B579DA, lower # is 4E27.
Are they interchangeable?
Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bax2008
How imperative is it that MAF part #'s match up?
They have 2 numbers each.
My old MAF upper # is F37F-12B579DA, lower # is 4l23.
My wrecker replacement upper # is F37F-12B579DA, lower # is 4E27.
Are they interchangeable?
They have 2 numbers each.
My old MAF upper # is F37F-12B579DA, lower # is 4l23.
My wrecker replacement upper # is F37F-12B579DA, lower # is 4E27.
Are they interchangeable?
Well, to answer my own question, they are the same part. It appears the second set of numbers is irrelevent. Possibly a date code?
Anyway. I swapped the MAF's and while the problem may have improved somewhat, the engine still bogs from a standing start. I have noticed that she seems easier to start and appears to idle smoother.
Haven't seen a stall yet, but we'll see over the next few days.
The bogging may just be a need for a tune-up that is very needed.
On another note, I took the cone out my airbox like many have done and really like the deeper engine tone.
A 3.0L with attitude.