Cab Lights are installed
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,808
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati Ohio
Cab Lights are installed
I got them on today. I was always leary about them leaking in the rainy weather so when I put them on I put a bead of silicon all the way around the bottom of the lights. That should insure no water to get through. My question is since today I got them installed, and tomorrow I plan on wiring them up. How do I take the A-Piller plastic off, I see there are two screws holding it on but by the looks of it I need to take the dash pad off to get it off, Or can I use a coat hanger and fish it through without taking it off? And once I get it through what wire does it get hooked to, I want it to come on with the running lights. I just want to insure I get it wired correctly the first time...
BTW yes thats my girl after she got done helping me fish the wires into the cab...
BTW yes thats my girl after she got done helping me fish the wires into the cab...
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
Do you want them to come on w/o the lights on or when you turn the lights on. If the first one then (I THINK!) you should tap into the bottom left fuse, its cold outside, just got back from baseball, and dont wanna go check for you. When i wired up my tack i led it directly to this fuse because i didnt know which one was lights or not. Hope that works!!
Taylor
Taylor
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,789
Likes: 26
From: Connecticut
What I did was open the hood go to the drivers side front fender marker light, tap in there. When the markers come on, the cab lights will too.
Three points I'd like to mention....
1. Those are the wrong lights for the year truck, (the longer "rectangular" lights with the light grey plastic base) are year-correct.
2. The spacing is incorrect for the year too, all 5 should be evenly spaced, with the length between any 2 (which is equal) is divided by two' That is the distance in the length from the first light to the rain gutter. (or the last light and rain gutter.
Example: (but to correct numbers for placement) 6" 12" 12" 12" 12" 12" 6"
The center light is on the centerline of the cab roof.
3. Silicone sealant is corrosive to sheet metal (and perminent) You should use nothing, cause the foam pad is the gasket, or Vasiline is a good and removable "sealant"
Not being critical, just helping for year-correct Fords.
I'll post a photo of my '86 Stepside later.
Reamer
Three points I'd like to mention....
1. Those are the wrong lights for the year truck, (the longer "rectangular" lights with the light grey plastic base) are year-correct.
2. The spacing is incorrect for the year too, all 5 should be evenly spaced, with the length between any 2 (which is equal) is divided by two' That is the distance in the length from the first light to the rain gutter. (or the last light and rain gutter.
Example: (but to correct numbers for placement) 6" 12" 12" 12" 12" 12" 6"
The center light is on the centerline of the cab roof.
3. Silicone sealant is corrosive to sheet metal (and perminent) You should use nothing, cause the foam pad is the gasket, or Vasiline is a good and removable "sealant"
Not being critical, just helping for year-correct Fords.
I'll post a photo of my '86 Stepside later.
Reamer
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,808
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati Ohio
Originally Posted by reamer
What I did was open the hood go to the drivers side front fender marker light, tap in there. When the markers come on, the cab lights will too.
Three points I'd like to mention....
1. Those are the wrong lights for the year truck, (the longer "rectangular" lights with the light grey plastic base) are year-correct.
2. The spacing is incorrect for the year too, all 5 should be evenly spaced, with the length between any 2 (which is equal) is divided by two' That is the distance in the length from the first light to the rain gutter. (or the last light and rain gutter.
Example: (but to correct numbers for placement) 6" 12" 12" 12" 12" 12" 6"
The center light is on the centerline of the cab roof.
3. Silicone sealant is corrosive to sheet metal (and perminent) You should use nothing, cause the foam pad is the gasket, or Vasiline is a good and removable "sealant"
Not being critical, just helping for year-correct Fords.
I'll post a photo of my '86 Stepside later.
Reamer
Three points I'd like to mention....
1. Those are the wrong lights for the year truck, (the longer "rectangular" lights with the light grey plastic base) are year-correct.
2. The spacing is incorrect for the year too, all 5 should be evenly spaced, with the length between any 2 (which is equal) is divided by two' That is the distance in the length from the first light to the rain gutter. (or the last light and rain gutter.
Example: (but to correct numbers for placement) 6" 12" 12" 12" 12" 12" 6"
The center light is on the centerline of the cab roof.
3. Silicone sealant is corrosive to sheet metal (and perminent) You should use nothing, cause the foam pad is the gasket, or Vasiline is a good and removable "sealant"
Not being critical, just helping for year-correct Fords.
I'll post a photo of my '86 Stepside later.
Reamer
2. To be DOT compliant the way I did mine are correct.
3. How can it be corrosive when cured? I used the silicon for an added layer of protection.
And Thank you Franklin, thats the answer I needed.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 5
From: Out of here
That was my post I believe. It seems like my early model lights are a little too long for some reason, and they don't quite fit the profile of the roof. I'm a bit perplexed by thx as its the same model year cab and lights.
I was going to silicon mine too, but now you have me wondering. Although the foam seals are in good shape, they still don't seal the light against the roof line.
I'll try and post some pics today.
I was going to silicon mine too, but now you have me wondering. Although the foam seals are in good shape, they still don't seal the light against the roof line.
I'll try and post some pics today.
Trending Topics
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,789
Likes: 26
From: Connecticut
The five eveny spaced are DOT correct too, (and year correct) The "grouped three" are required on the rear of "big trucks"
Silicone has a corrosive ingredient in it (even after curing) This is why any auto repair/paint shop will tell you NOT to use silicone on windshield leaks. and seam sealer is used in metal panel joints (along with being paintable)
If you ever try and repaint the truck, any silicone accidentially left on the roof or anywhere on the truck will mess up the paint job.
Page 3, 11, 12 and 17 on the original 1986 F-150 saled brochure show the correct light and correct placement of the cablights.
They are quite DOT compliant for that model year.
Silicone has a corrosive ingredient in it (even after curing) This is why any auto repair/paint shop will tell you NOT to use silicone on windshield leaks. and seam sealer is used in metal panel joints (along with being paintable)
If you ever try and repaint the truck, any silicone accidentially left on the roof or anywhere on the truck will mess up the paint job.
Page 3, 11, 12 and 17 on the original 1986 F-150 saled brochure show the correct light and correct placement of the cablights.
They are quite DOT compliant for that model year.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,966
Likes: 2,728
From: Virginia
You can get different sealers if you want to use something. I know Lowe's has this roof sealer in a caulk gun tube now, but it's not the latex stuff, and it's not the tar based stuff. It's a urethane type sealer, and though it's a little expensive, and stinks too, it really works well. I believe my local True Value hardware store also sells some called "clearthane" or something like that. It's very clear, and is not silicone based either.
But if you just put it on the paint under the light, I would not worry about it.
I have just been through the "three lights in the middle" thing too. Federal lighting rules state that any vehicle over 80 inches wide, has to have marker lights out at the corners, and have the three lights in the middle. I just built a trailer that is 96 inches wide, so I had to get special "over 80" tailights, and had to buy the three light bar for the middle.
But if you just put it on the paint under the light, I would not worry about it.
I have just been through the "three lights in the middle" thing too. Federal lighting rules state that any vehicle over 80 inches wide, has to have marker lights out at the corners, and have the three lights in the middle. I just built a trailer that is 96 inches wide, so I had to get special "over 80" tailights, and had to buy the three light bar for the middle.
Last edited by Franklin2; Mar 12, 2008 at 08:54 AM.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,789
Likes: 26
From: Connecticut
That is correct Franklin, and as you typed "just made" that also makes it fall into 2008 rules and regulations.
1980 to 1986 trucks didn't have to follow this 'cause this "law" was not on the books then. Also I just finished my 1948 Ford F-5, (15000GWV) Back then cab lights were an option, and only 3 on the roof were standard. You can look in my gallery.
Reamer
1980 to 1986 trucks didn't have to follow this 'cause this "law" was not on the books then. Also I just finished my 1948 Ford F-5, (15000GWV) Back then cab lights were an option, and only 3 on the roof were standard. You can look in my gallery.
Reamer
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,966
Likes: 2,728
From: Virginia
It doesn't matter, they are really more for decoration since these trucks are not big enough or wide enough for them to be required. But my 1980 did have factory installed roof lights, and they were spaced evenly all the way across. I would not worry about it. I am thinking about mounting some on the visor of my 89, and I think I might put the group close together in the middle like you did.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 5
From: Out of here
Originally Posted by rmalottwtes30
I think I see two different brown wires. one is a real thick gauge and the other is I dont know id say 20G. Which one do I need?
Seems like a no-brainer to me....
Donor truck: remove the kick panel, unplug it, pull it up through the A pillar from the top.
Your truck: reverse the above procedure.