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I have noticed that a lot of you have mentioned in your posts what your trucks are and what moter and rear-end they have. So with that in mind i have a 68 f250 2wd 390 auto. Where and how can i find what the rear-end is, and what should have came in this truck?. It seems to me that if i had a posi track (factory) not one that has been welded, there would be a lot less tire spinning and more acceleration, You know pinned to the seat when you hammer it. Where would i find such a rear-end for this truck?? And would it be practical to put it in this truck??? Thanks guys, MY 390.
You need to determine what type of rearend you have, Dana or 9". Likely a Dana(has a removable cover on the back side). If it's never been touched, there will be a tag on one of the cover bolts that gives you the information you need. It will state gear ratio(3.70, 4.10, etc) and if it's a Traction lock it will have an "L" next to the ratio on the bottom line of the tag.
Purchasing a "posi" for a Dana is not cheap. Haven't priced one lately so can't say for sure, but with installation it will be well over $500. Someone that might have better information, please say.
Where and how can i find what the rear-end is, and what should have came in this truck?. It seems to me that if i had a posi track (factory) not one that has been welded, there would be a lot less tire spinning and more acceleration
What rear end is it? It's a Dana60.
What's the axle ratio? Does it have Limited Slip? (Posi-Traction is a chebbie term).
Here's how to tell: Look on the Warranty Plate, left door face below the latch, second line at the far right, for the AXLE code.
Post what it is, once decoded, that'll give you the ratio and whether it has LS or not.
Or...
FTE has an AXLE decoder...look above on this page for ARTICLES/SPECS.
WOW, That is cooooooL, thank you very much. I really appreciate that, maybe you can reverse code and tell me what a posi-track (chebbie) would be?? Or something as good as a posi-track. If it is not called a posi-track then would you call it ???
so numberdummy, can you tell me how i might decode a limited slip, or posi when i am at the junk yard?? What to look for visually and any numbers?? If you have time and feel like it, thanks.
so numberdummy, can you tell me how i might decode a limited slip, or posi when i am at the junk yard?? What to look for visually and any numbers?? If you have time and feel like it, thanks.
Finding a 3.54 in a junkyard with Limited Slip will be like looking for a needle in a haystack. Rare isn't the word. Almost non-existant is.
3.54's are rare, and desirable. Most Dana 60's have 3.73's or 4.09's...some even have 4.56's or worse...4.88's. Now you know why ppl want 3.54's!
DANA60WARRANTYPLATEAXLECODESFORLIMITEDSLIP ~ 1965/79 F250 (1961/64 IS different!)
The rear axle tag, with its specific code (if still on the rear axle, they are usually missing), will not match the axle code on the Warranty Plate.
Rear Axle Tag: Either a Dana 7 digit number code (example: 603010-1) is used, or a Ford ID code like: C8TA-AA is used...or a combo of both.
I just looked, the codes are mind boggling...every year uses a different version of the 7 digit code, you'd need the parts catalog to decode them all. There also the Ford codes, which consists of, for example: C8TA-AA. These codes change from year to year. C8TA is 1968, C9TA is 1969, D3TA is 1973...etc.
The only EZ way I can think of, is either phone me via cell phone from a junkyard, (I'm usually home) or email me the codes. You can email me off FTE, just click on my user name.
That's correct. from what i know about rear ends, this is better for highway driving. other than that, are there any other advantages to having the weaker rear end.
That's correct. from what i know about rear ends, this is better for highway driving. other than that, are there any other advantages to having the weaker rear end.
No no no, The higher the number is for pulling power.
The lower the number is for cruising.
Your engine turns 4.1 times per the tire rotation of 1.
Say you were running a 3.00, the engine would only turn 3 revs to do the same thing.
Lower ratios are generally desirable when going off-road. Higher ratios are better for freeway driving since they run at lower RPM’s and offer better fuel economy.
not trying to argue, just want to make sure i understand. all help is greatly appreciated.
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