Vacuum Hubs
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 201
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From: Mason, Ohio
I think I'll put new O rings and vacuum lines on mine and see how that works first. I can always manually lock these hubs in just as easy as a new set of Warns. I wanted ESOF, I hate to give up too quickly.
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From: SE Wisco
Originally Posted by Keith Smith
I think I'll put new O rings and vacuum lines on mine and see how that works first. I can always manually lock these hubs in just as easy as a new set of Warns. I wanted ESOF, I hate to give up too quickly.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island USA
Originally Posted by Keith Smith
I think I'll put new O rings and vacuum lines on mine and see how that works first. I can always manually lock these hubs in just as easy as a new set of Warns. I wanted ESOF, I hate to give up too quickly.
Keeping it completely stock (and working) is what I set out to do when I first started having issues with the auto hubs.
Problem was, on mine, the latching mechanism had actually broken and I would have needed a complete hub. In the meantime, while disassembling the auto hub, I realized it was the weakest link. It has a very small contact area where the hub actually locks, and some of the stuff I've already done with the Warns would have been sure to break the stockers.
But that doesn't mean you shouldn't pursue fixing the stock setup
Did you get a hand vacuum pump with a gauge and test each knuckle to see if it's leaking?
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 201
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From: Mason, Ohio
Good idea about the hand vacuum pump. I'll head to Habor Freight this weekend. They would probably have one cheap. They're also next to my Autozone, where I can buy some vacuum line. Any idea how that line is sized? I'm not sure what to ask for.
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From: SE Wisco
Originally Posted by redford
Autozone should have rolls of vacuum line, priced by the foot.
On a side note, how hard is it to run new lines? (I have never looked) I think I will replace mine just for fun if it isn't too bad.
New User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 22
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From: Palm, PA
I had 'em fixed once, then they stopped working again. I gave up, and now just lock 'em manually.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 201
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From: Mason, Ohio
Originally Posted by sflem849
I think he is wondering what size it is. ie 3/16, 2.2 mm, etc
On a side note, how hard is it to run new lines? (I have never looked) I think I will replace mine just for fun if it isn't too bad.
On a side note, how hard is it to run new lines? (I have never looked) I think I will replace mine just for fun if it isn't too bad.
The barbed fitting on the hub is steel and is a little rusty. I'll wire brush and paint that this time. Maybe a dab of rtv sealant might not hurt?
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From: SE Wisco
Originally Posted by Keith Smith
That's correct, I was wondering what size diameter to ask for. I'll just pull one of mine off tonight and take it with me. I know they just slip off the barbed fitting at the hub and it appears that there is another barbed fitting near the top of the wheel well where it goes into the engine compartment. I'm going to see if I can get some small clamps for them this time too.
The barbed fitting on the hub is steel and is a little rusty. I'll wire brush and paint that this time. Maybe a dab of rtv sealant might not hurt?
The barbed fitting on the hub is steel and is a little rusty. I'll wire brush and paint that this time. Maybe a dab of rtv sealant might not hurt?
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 201
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From: Mason, Ohio
New vacuum lines seem to have taken care of it. I used 3/16" fuel lines, approximately 24" long each. Fuel line is reinforced and a little heavier than the vacuum line. I also cleaned the steel nipples on the hubs with a little sand paper, shot them with Rustoleum and added a dab of RTV sealant before I put the new lines on. No clamps yet, but these lines seem to grab well enough and the sealant should seal them up.