Poor people have poor ways just ask me
Cardboard works well when the user isent
in a hurry
Take care

 

Two more options come to mind. I could just apply two coats of used 30 weight and see how that looks. Or I could have my 17year old change her oil there -- which will likely have the same cosmetic effect.

 

LoL!!! I knew you had a sense of humor ..that's good stuff there!!
HaaHaa!!
The cardboard idea I thought was mine only!..now the secret's out!

 

how about a non-slip, non-yellowing, arcylic cure and sealer, i can personally vouch for this product, was designed originally as a water fall sealer, but once some grit was added, presto

http://www.deckoseal.com/783.htm

 

I'll call them. Thanks for the tip. Who knew there was such a thing as a waterfall sealer?

 

yep, most pool building supply stores should either have it, or be able to get it for you

you may also want to look at some of the products offered by there parent company,
WR Meadows, www.wrmeadows.com

 

No matter what you use to seal , it should never be done on new crete or it will peel off in short order. It will need to be totally cured for months prior to a seal of any kind. Water daily ( really) to speed things along.

 

No matter what you use to seal , it should never be done on new crete or it will peel off in short order. It will need to be totally cured for months prior to a seal of any kind. Water daily ( really) to speed things along.

 

Actually, the new sealer/curers are designed to be used very soon after pouring. I used it in my shop, and it's great! Sealed well, and all but the most toxic of chemical spills, cleans right up - Kroil is a KILLER, ask me how I know!!! Not once, but twice!!!!!! So, I have two pretty spots...

It is supposed to actually make the surface "harder" than it is without, and aids in curing. Like someone said, ask your concrete guy - mine is smooth as a baby's butt, and level as a slate pool table. They spend 8 hours troweling it after it had set. Great bunch of guys, and were reasonable, as well.

Back to the sealer - it just made the cement a little darker at first, but dried up just perfect.

Just my $.02 worth...

R

 

I agree if the manufacturer says so on the pkg.. Sure would be better then waiting 60 days. I use backoil on my floors.
Jon

 

Floor?......I haven't seen my shop floor in so long I forgot what it looks like. Mine is more like a carpet of old truck parts, motorcycle parts, tools, and materials. I'm sure there is on there somewhere, will report back if and when I find it.

Gil

 

right now mine looks lime a polluted pond . it's not so bad as we havent had any snow since last week ... but hers and mine both sit in the garage thawing out after use and all the water ends up on the floor . then factor in it sweating / seeping from the constant weather changes and no matter how many times you squeegee it it seems to always be covered . last snow , 11 inched worth which im sure you got some roger , i had a completely full bed as i had to leave bessie at praipie ih outside , and she left a gigantic mess when she was done !!!! sea;ers , havent put any on it since i've owned the place and probably wont . seems to be an uneccessary expense for a disorganized individual such as myself .

 

OK the decision is made. I can go with powdercoated wheels, bumpers and grill and cardboard. Or painted parts and sealer.

I think I saw some good boxes behind the appliance store.

 

Cool! The wheels and stuff will be worth it!! LoL
Stock up on the card board...You may need more Parts in the future..

 

I have a tried and true method for making your epoxy coating last. There are four steps to the process:

1. Apply first coat
2. While first coat is still wet, apply a coat of sand
3. After paint is dry, sweep off any loose paint and apply second coat op epoxy.
4. Build a garage around your new concrete floor. Jag