my 6mm drain on my fuel filter is rounded out. does anyone know where i can find one and the actual size of plug? have checked at local parts store and got nowhere.

 

Are you able to remove the drain plug? Can't Ford get them? I tried to drain the water separator on my truck and the 6mm allen wrench stripped the plug. Does anyone know how to remove the plug from the filter?
I guess a few years of road salt didn't help.

 

Find a local Internationl dealer ask for part # 2589259C91.

This is the upgraded drain plug. No more stripped out plug

 

Many who have had this problem have had luck using epoxy and a spare/junk allen wrench...

 

Like Workin4ALivin said, you would probably be better off with the "upgraded" HFCM plug. Here is some info...

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-05-19.php

 

i just had to replace that plate with the fuel lines and the plug(Drain).I removed the plug and the threads cameout with it.so it wouldnt go back in and tighten up.DUCT tape and Zip ties and a small 1/8th inch piece of aluminum held it in place for a while.I broke down and got a new one Cost 97.and some change almost $$$100.00.

If you stripped it out i would find a dealer that has a new one.and also see about getting a new plug and rubber gasket.
Remove it drill it out and try an easyout.if all that fails get a new plate for 100.00

i am now replacing the plug once a year.corrosion on the plug inside from water is what caused the failure i had with the treads getting pulled out and i plan to replace the plug every year and also a little grease on the plug when i install after drian

 

So if I force this plug out it may damage the "plate" to the tune of $100. Is it safe to drill out and try an easy out?






O3 6.0
Just trying to keep it running!!!!!

 

It can be done, but it would be best done off the truck. The epoxy is somthing that can be done without having to tear it apart.

 

i would buy a new plug about 7.00 i think at the dealer.and a new gasket.Its rubber and swells from the diesel fuel and is a nightmare to get back it.i would pull the entire unit off and do this.once the fuel lines are off it 3 bolt on the outside of the frame rail and takes alot less time to R&R the unit than just the plate on the truck

 

Get an old or new wood chiesel about 1/4 to 3/8 inch wide. Put it on the front of the plug and with a hammer smack it upwards. Since the plug material is soft it should cut into the plug material and loosen the plug. That is all you need to do since the plug has an O-ring seal. Next, take the plug and drill and tap it for 1/8th pipe thread. There is more then enough material left on the plug to do this. Get a brass 90° elbow with 1/8th pipe male and female ends. Screw the 90° elbow male end into the drilled and tapped plug. Get a 2 to 3 inch section of brass pipe with 1/8th threads, a female union and a drain valve. Screw the brass pipe into the female 90, the union onto the brass pipe and the valve into the other end of the union. That is what I did to solve the drain plug problem. It took me one time to realize that I was dealing with another POS Ford design. Now for about $10 at my local hardware store all I have to do is reach under the X and turn the valve to drain the HFCM. Don't need any tools to do this and I can do it anywhere if I happen to get water in the system. Speaking of which since I have made the drain plug mod I do not have the intermittent WIF lite anymore. I do drain the drain pipe assembly about once a month and may find a half to a full teaspoon of water. Now, if my WIF lite comes on, I have a big problem and know that I need to stop the X immediately and drain the HFCM. Where as before the WIF lite cried wolf a lot and that was a PITA.

I would post pics but I guess I'm still not allowed or an idiot and missed how to do it on the site.


DSMMH

 

i still havent figured out how to make my pics on the computer small enough to put on this site. and not to stray from subject too much i just recently swapped the drain plug for the new hand tightened one from IH and it works pretty awesome.

 

I'll give it a try. I just fixed my door ajar switches with WD40 as recommended by someone. Thanks. Maybe I could dunk the whole truck in WD................

 

This is a good idea if you don't go off road where the risk of breaking off the piping is a factor. I ended up using synthetic grease on my HFCM drain plug to help prevent corrosion. It was so bad I had to use a pipe wrench on the knurled part to get it out.

Here are the plumbing terms for the parts you describe:

(1) This is known as a street el
(2) This is known as a nipple and can be had in various lengths from a "close nipple" which has no unthreaded section up to 6" in most cases.
(3) Unless there is an interference problem you should be able to screw the valve and nipple in directly. This will save cost and weight on the HFCM where the street el is screwed in which in turn will reduce stress on the components.
(4)** You should consider putting a pipe plug in the valve as it will prevent an accidental spill should the valve somehow get opened unintentionally.

You can also use a nipple and 1/8 X 3/8 bell reducer(female on both ends) coming off the street el and get a Fumoto valve threaded 3/8" NPT which would lock the valve shut.

I hope I have added some useful information, I am not trying to be critical in any way. I will be giving you rep points for this idea.

 

My problem with the plug is I can only use the allen wrench to loosen the plug because it hits the front wheel drive shaft. Then I have to use my hand to completly remove the plug, getting diesel fuel all over the place and down my arm. I wish they would have used the 7.3 design. Its a pain to have to crawl under the truck every time the wif light comes on.

 

Well, I guess I failed pumbing 101 (LOL).

I thought about the off road thing but since I don't do that it did not enter my final design criteria. My worst problem is when I put it on a lift I have to be careful that the lift pad does not crunch it. Also, if I do hit something the drain will swivel from front to back but if something hits it from the side, I guess it will break and I'm SOL. I guess I need to replace the 90° elbow, oops, street el with a 90° 3/8 hose fitting, oops, street hose el (I think). Then replace the pipe with 3/8 fuel hose and stick the valve in the end of that. Or just get a straight 3/8 hose nipple (a street whatever) threaded with 1/8 pipe, screw it into the drilled and tapped plug and put any length of 3/8 fuel hose on it and put the valve in it.

Ayway, it really works great and no more fuel down the arm or PITA WIF lites.

DSMMH