No Brake Lights
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by BaugherGarage
Explains all the tailgaters and dirty looks from folks... What are some of the things I need to check in order to get them functioning?
Mike
Mike
Stepping on the brake pedal forces fluid into the switch...then...the brake lights are supposed to come on.
But the small hole in the threaded end of the switch where the fluid is forced into, easily gets clogged up with dirty brake fluid. When that happens, the switch is history.
The switch is either screwed into the master cylinder itself, or to a brass fitting that's screws into the master.
It has two male connectors on one end for the two wiring harness leads to plug into.
C1AZ-13480-A .. Stoplight Switch (Motorcraft SW-24)
Fits all the cars and most of the trucks from 1956 thru 1966.
Available at any parts store.
Elder User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 581
Likes: 1
From: Montana
another thing to check after numberdummies suggestion is the connection at the back of the pickup. it is about a foot up along the frame towards the cab to make sure that is connected. use a tester to check the connection at the master cylindar. on of them should be hot. may have to have key on. have someone step on the brake and then test the other. it should come on also. if no, it's toast. if no juice to either my guess would be the fuse. are any of the lights in the back working. tail,turn.??? the light fixtures in the back are a body ground and if they are still original it may be a place to look also. as i have had this trouble in all my trucks at one time or another. good luck. Dutch
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by BaugherGarage
Thank you!! I will check that right away! When you say the switch is "history" do you mean it can't be cleaned up and reused? Must I trash it?
Just looked on Ford's online website, the switch has a list price of $14.69, so NAPA's price will prolly be half of that.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,351
Likes: 1
From: Escondido, CA
One way to know for sure if it is the switch is to connect the two wires on the switch together bypassing it. If the brake lights come on you know where the problem is. Uber simple. One solution to get rid of the problematic stuck switch is to replace it with one you munt under the dash that touches the brake arm. You can pick up a dome light style one for $15 make a mounting bracket and not have to worry again. I say a dome light style because it looks like one but it is meant for GM.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 773
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by airharley
One solution to get rid of the problematic stuck switch is to replace it with one you munt under the dash that touches the brake arm.
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New User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
do u have any pictures of this new switch your speak of. im wiring my truck this week and need to get my brake lights working ..please take some if you don't already have some.. thank you ... you can also email me at guam05@adelphia.net if you like..
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati, OH
I had nothing but a left turn signal when I got my slick. I replaced the brake switch (it was like 8 bucks from rockauto.com) and now I have 1 brake light...Still no tail lights or RH turn signal, but I'm getting there! I haven't checked any wiring yet, but hopefully its just a bad fuse or something easy. I already replaced all of the bulbs...
Elder User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 581
Likes: 1
From: Montana
Maybe check or replace the turn signal flasher to the right side, before you do that take it apart in theback and make sure the ground is grounding. very common problem in these old trucks, the switches have a body ground through the screws that hold it on. test the wires going to the light at the back end and see if the juice is getting to it,your brake light and turn signal are on the same wire. then test the wires coming out of the stearing column to make sure juice is going through. if not then it's a broken wire, fuse , or signalstat. few other things to do also but these are the most common ones. the can of worms gets bigger LOL. Dutch
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,351
Likes: 1
From: Escondido, CA
Well if the ground doesn't fix it look at the turn signal switch. If the flasher was bad you'd have no blinking at all. This is an attempt at writing the routing so bare with me...
Brake power runs out of the fuse block to the brake switch up to the turn signal switch then to the brake lights.
Turn signal power runs out of the fuse block to the flasher unit then to the turn signal switch which routes it to correct side.
The running lights and tail lights get their power directly from the headlight switch.
Now if you look at the link it should explain match what I wrote...
/ 1964_09.gif
Brake power runs out of the fuse block to the brake switch up to the turn signal switch then to the brake lights.
Turn signal power runs out of the fuse block to the flasher unit then to the turn signal switch which routes it to correct side.
The running lights and tail lights get their power directly from the headlight switch.
Now if you look at the link it should explain match what I wrote...
/ 1964_09.gif
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
Hi Neighbor
Easy way to check the switch is to pull off and jump the two leads -- if the lights come on then it's a bad switch.
I walked into LMC on 108th St in Lenexa and picked up a new switch for $5 -- works like a champ.
Hope that helps. Good luck. I'll be looking for that 61 around town.
Easy way to check the switch is to pull off and jump the two leads -- if the lights come on then it's a bad switch.
I walked into LMC on 108th St in Lenexa and picked up a new switch for $5 -- works like a champ.
Hope that helps. Good luck. I'll be looking for that 61 around town.
