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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 06:54 PM
  #31  
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I got the premiums for 10 bucks more.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 06:58 PM
  #32  
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Do I need a conversion kit at all? I have a 95 F150 4X4 that came with manual locking hubs, and the manual shift lever 4X4.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 08:29 PM
  #33  
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The damn snap ring was behind the hub! I got the hubs out and went back out to look at what I had gotten done, and the snap ring was on behind where the hub went.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 10:27 AM
  #34  
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I'd get the premiums. No conversion kit required. Not sure what you mean by the snap ring being behind the hub - sounds pretty funky.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 10:51 AM
  #35  
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The snap ring that was supposed to be on the end of the shaft was set back into the hub.

Any Ideas on how to get the ball joint nuts loose. I just broke a Craftsman 2 foot breaker bar. It was a 3/4" drive too.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 11:13 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Inepsa
The snap ring that was supposed to be on the end of the shaft was set back into the hub.

Any Ideas on how to get the ball joint nuts loose. I just broke a Craftsman 2 foot breaker bar. It was a 3/4" drive too.
My neighbor's son was trying to get the 2" trailer ball off the back of his Ranger and was turning the wrong way! Did you get the cotter pin out first or are u just trying to overcome it? Maybe some good penetrating oil is needed. Can't believe that 3/4 drive didn't break it loose.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 12:13 PM
  #37  
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The cotter pin would not just pull out. I broke it off and cleared the path out. I just got back from Sears with a replacement breaker bar. Will see what happens to this one. Did I mention that I had a 3 foot pipe on the breaker bar? It was really old, so maybe this new one will work better.
 
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