master cylinder?
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master cylinder?
i have done a complete brake job front and rear including wheel cylinders and master booster, springs etc. and my petal is too low and does not stop the truck very well. f250, 4x4, 4 drums.
i have to adjust the rears to the point of rubbing excessivly for the petal to firm up and stop the truck. can't be right because they get really hot.
If i back out the adjustment even a little i'm back where i started.
Parking brake is adjusted loose to take it out of the equation for now...
Any thoughts? i've been working on this for 2 months and getting nowhere.
Can the master be bad? no leaks that i can see.
Thanks
i have to adjust the rears to the point of rubbing excessivly for the petal to firm up and stop the truck. can't be right because they get really hot.
If i back out the adjustment even a little i'm back where i started.
Parking brake is adjusted loose to take it out of the equation for now...
Any thoughts? i've been working on this for 2 months and getting nowhere.
Can the master be bad? no leaks that i can see.
Thanks
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I don't know for sure about the bleeding because i did't do that part myself...
When i pump the brakes there is no change in petal height or feel but doesn't mean there in no air in there. i will bleed them again starting with the mc.
Anything else i should consider?
When i pump the brakes there is no change in petal height or feel but doesn't mean there in no air in there. i will bleed them again starting with the mc.
Anything else i should consider?
Old, but not too old
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Central Mississippi
If you bleed starting with the master cylinder, then go to: Right rear, left rear, right front, then left front, get all the air out and then still have the same problem, I would say you have a faulty master cylinder. Sometimes even brand new parts are bad. I got 2 bad carburators in a row one time, both of them brand new. I figured no way they were both bad but when I put on carb # 3, everything was fine.
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From: Williamson, NY
Originally Posted by mdkallas
i have done a complete brake job front and rear including wheel cylinders and master booster, springs etc. and my petal is too low and does not stop the truck very well. f250, 4x4, 4 drums.
i have to adjust the rears to the point of rubbing excessivly for the petal to firm up and stop the truck. can't be right because they get really hot.
If i back out the adjustment even a little i'm back where i started.
Parking brake is adjusted loose to take it out of the equation for now...
Any thoughts? i've been working on this for 2 months and getting nowhere.
Can the master be bad? no leaks that i can see.
Thanks
i have to adjust the rears to the point of rubbing excessivly for the petal to firm up and stop the truck. can't be right because they get really hot.
If i back out the adjustment even a little i'm back where i started.
Parking brake is adjusted loose to take it out of the equation for now...
Any thoughts? i've been working on this for 2 months and getting nowhere.
Can the master be bad? no leaks that i can see.
Thanks
Click on Photo link below for push-rod adjustment:
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From: lino lakes, mn
what year truck? is the valve centered in the proportioning valve? Is the brake warning light on? when a master goes bad usually you can pump it ounce or twice and it will come up. Are you loosing fluid? look behind the master towards the booster thats where they leak to either into the booster or around the mounting point to the booster.
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truck is a 74 all drums...i cannot find any leaks and am not losing fluid...i think it may be leaking from one circuit to another in the mc...
don't think it is the valve because when rears are adjusted too tight the petal feels fine...i may be wrong...brake light is not on and bulb is new
thanks for the suggestions!
don't think it is the valve because when rears are adjusted too tight the petal feels fine...i may be wrong...brake light is not on and bulb is new
thanks for the suggestions!