Just bought a camper
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 630
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From: Central PA
Just bought a camper
Hi all. I've never posted in this particular forum. I'm usually scanning the Expedition/Navigator forum. Anyway, I just bought a 1980 20' Sunliner. Its my first camper and it needs a lot of work. I bought it from an older couple who didnt use it. They didnt know what worked anymore. I got it home and all the light work inside and out. The blower for the heater works. I havent tried the propane yet so I dont know if the heater or the stove works. It does have some water damage, not much. I was told i should have the roof resealed. Is this something I can do myself or should I have it done professionally? And if anyone can offer any other suggestions, I'd appreciate it. I'm looking foward to getting it ready for the season. The wife and kids cant wait to go camping.
New User
Joined: Sep 2007
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If you don't have much into it and just want a quick fix you can buy rv roof sealer from your local rv dealer and get a long roller (we used one for rolling tar iirc) and do it yourself. I work at a dealership and have done this and its a job that anyone can do. But if you planning on having it a while then I would bring it into the dealer and have them put on a new piece of rubber on the roof as a permanent fix.
also, if you do go the reseal route, remember to clean and reclean the roof with acetone or else the sealer won't stick as well
also, if you do go the reseal route, remember to clean and reclean the roof with acetone or else the sealer won't stick as well
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 364
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From: Republic of TEXAS
I think I'd go a step further.... if there is evidence of water leaking inside the trailer, I'd pull the paneling and affected cabinets (if any) and repair the studs. generally, when you see a little water damage on the outside, there's a LOT more inside the walls.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 236
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From: Taxsonville,Fl.
I've found most leaks start at the plastic vents at the roof, The stove vent is a real camper killer and the other small round covers and the AC mounting will leak also, look for stains inside then go topside
May you be a happy camper. We use an older Stepvan and it does us fine, I can put Harley in the back, tow the truck and it's not pretty but very useful to us
Jim
May you be a happy camper. We use an older Stepvan and it does us fine, I can put Harley in the back, tow the truck and it's not pretty but very useful to us
Jim
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 36
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From: Spring Branch, TX
a 1980 sunliner would have a metal roof, hopfully a one piece. I would just seal around the vents, seams, antenna's, ect. If the old sealant is peeling up or loose, it will need to be removed frist. Do not seal around the base of the a/c, as water needs to run out from under it. Also check the corner molding for cracks in the sealant, this is also a commonplace for units to leak. Good luck with the camper.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 630
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From: Central PA
Great suggestions. I plan on getting the rubber seal replaced by a pro. I will be pulling the panelling to see whats behind it and address any water damage issues. The wheel bearings were something I didnt think of. That sounds like a simple p.m. job. Thanks for all your feedback. I cant wait to get her going!
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2007
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Icefan,
good luck and welcome to the world of RV-ing! I am sure you and your family will love it! What kind of condition is the Refridgerator in? Those can be quite costly to fix. RV's use an ammonia-absorbtion system (no compressor) so BE SURE when you are setting up you get the unit LEVEL or it can ruin the refer in short order.
Sounds like you have a handle on things. What type of WD hitch system are you using? Do be sure to use some sort of WD hitch, preferably with anti-sway built into it, such as the Reese DC, Equalizer, ETC.
Again, happy camping and enjoy. I was thinking myself that it will soon be time to haul my rig out again and give it the annual spring cleaning ( total inside clean, wax exterior, pull wheels, grease wh bearings, ETC.)
Take care.
good luck and welcome to the world of RV-ing! I am sure you and your family will love it! What kind of condition is the Refridgerator in? Those can be quite costly to fix. RV's use an ammonia-absorbtion system (no compressor) so BE SURE when you are setting up you get the unit LEVEL or it can ruin the refer in short order.
Sounds like you have a handle on things. What type of WD hitch system are you using? Do be sure to use some sort of WD hitch, preferably with anti-sway built into it, such as the Reese DC, Equalizer, ETC.
Again, happy camping and enjoy. I was thinking myself that it will soon be time to haul my rig out again and give it the annual spring cleaning ( total inside clean, wax exterior, pull wheels, grease wh bearings, ETC.)
Take care.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 630
Likes: 1
From: Central PA
Greg, I haven't even given a thought to weight distribution. Do I need to be concerned about it? As for the fridge, I dont even know if it works. Its been snowing and/or raining since I brought it home. I threw a tarp over it the other day so I wont be able to get in there until the weather is better. Right now my main concern is getting the roof resealed and making sure its water tight. Thanks again for everyone's input.
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: the couve
Hey welcome to RV-ing. I have been an rv tech for 12 years. Some good tips on this thread but no recommendations of sealant. If you do this yourself DO NOT roll anything on, bad idea. Scrape as much sealant off from around the roof attatchments as possible. If you know what silicone is and you have any around any vents and moldings and such. All of it has to come off as nothing sticks to silicone. Use wax and grease remover and a 5 in one scraper for metal of fibreglass only. Plastic scraper for rubber or TPO. Sealants to use are to be a self leveling type.NEVER SILICONE. Use Dicor or the self leveling Acryl-r by Schnee-Morehead Co. If you have an A/C Remove the interior ceiling assembly m( on older units this is sometimes complicated) and you will find 4 corner bolts that compress a gasket around the hole. Tighten these bolts a bit and see if that works alot of times it does. If you have a shop do this, make sure they are doing a scrape and reseal and not just going ove the top of existing sealannt. Don't know what the shop rates are back there but I would charge somewhere between 400-700 dollars. Be careful of rv shops. winter is a slow month and they have to make overhead
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