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292 Timing - School Me Please

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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 08:15 AM
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292 Timing - School Me Please

Okay, I'm really not much of an engine expert, so when I hear things like timing and dwell and rich/lean adjustments, I sort of know what people are talking about, but I really don't have a clue as to how/what I need to do and watch out for when performing all these different maintenance procedures.

For example, does anyone know of any excellent articles about timing which could take me through a step by step guide? Better yet, for the Y-block? I've looked through several topics and my shop manual ('64 F100), but it is still all quite confusing.

I understand why timing and engine tuning is important, I just don't get how to actually DO these tasks.
_____

The reason why I believe I need to setup up the timing is because when I let to go in 1st gear from a stop, it takes a lot of gas to get the truck rolling. I really have to give it gas and keep giving it gas or else it'll bog down like crazy. And this is just one example.

I don't know, I'd just like to learn about timing and engine performance.

Maybe someone could just tell me what to set the carb adjustments and ignition adjustments to. It's a stock 292 in a '64 F100, I'm about 100 ft above sea level, if any of this is important...
 
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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 10:23 AM
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First off is to figure out why the hesitation is happening. I think your best/first test would be to check acceleration pump in the carb. With air cleaner off and engine off, move the throttle linkage(gas pedal) while looking down in carb and see if you have two streams of gas. If not, you need new accelerator pump in carb.
 
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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 10:45 AM
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The carb was completely rebuilt by a very reputable guy a few months ago.

Acceleration is GREAT once the truck is rolling. It's just from stop to about 5mph that you really have to keep giving it gas while letting out the clutch or it'll bog down pretty bad.
 
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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 11:10 AM
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We'll assume carb is ok for now. The basics are 1. setting the points in the distributor. With a feeler gauge, you need to check the opening of the points when the rubbing block on the points is at high point of the lobe at center of dist. You may have to tap starter to get correct spot for setting/checking points opening. Haven't beenaround a 292 in a while, but should be about .016-.018 thousands. You need a feeler gauge with different thickness blades with the thickness marked on them.
 
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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 11:44 AM
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And what if the points aren't set at the right amount? Is there an easy way to adjust them?

I'll check em out when I get home. I'll get back to you once I've checked them.
 
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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 02:07 PM
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Loosen the screw a little and with the screwdriver in slot on opposite end of pivot point of points make small adjustments until the gap is correct. It is a good idea to inspect the points for pits and alignment. They can be cleaned with a burnishing tool or very fine sandpaper and then wiped with lintless cloth. Check gap again after tightening screw.
 
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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 04:31 PM
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It's a brand new distributor because the old one was all frozen up. I don't think it should have any pits or defects... ?

I'll go check the points as soon as I get the chance. It may take a day or two though.

Thanks merlynr for all the help so far!
 
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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 05:00 PM
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You're welcome. Do you have access to a timing light and vacuum gauge?
 
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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 05:19 PM
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Yeah a friend of mine gave me a Craftsman all-metal timing light, supposedly a pretty nice one. I've messed around with it, but didn't know what I was doing. For example, I didn't know that you have to adjust the points BEFORE doing any timing...

I don't have a vacuum gauge though...
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 09:21 AM
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There is really no particular order in doing these things at this time. Just ruling out possibilities
My timing lite(cheapie) has three leads. Two go to the battery and third is clipped on the no. 1 sparkplug wire. You have to find your timing marks on the crankshaft pulley low on the front of engine below the waterpump. There will be a zero and that is TDC(top dead center). Mark the pulley with chalk at 8 degrees BTDC(before top dead center). With engine at idle point the timing lite at the pulley and watch for the chalk mark and see if timed at approximately that spot. This tells you that no.1 sparkplug is firing at the correct time.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 09:54 AM
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Ahh, I get it.

Okay well the points are fine and clean, so I'll go ahead and check the timing.

By the way, I tried doing the timing before, but I hit a wall when the light kept flashing on a part of the damper that wasn't anywhere close to the etched in markings. I know that I set up the timing light correctly, as the guy who gave it to me taught sort of taught me how to hook it up. I think I read somewhere that the dampers on Y-blocks were known to slip sometimes, therefore screwing up the timing marks, etc. I believe the right procedure was to find TDC again (via in between piston stops), and then mark your degrees from there...

So, what do you think about this, particularly the part about the light not flashing on the right area of the damper?
 
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 09:06 AM
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That will get u in the ballpark. You need to get no. 1 piston up on compression stroke and with distributor rotor pointing at no. 1 sparkplug wire look at timing mark on crankshaft in this static position. We used to time these engines by ear and could get fairly close to correct. If it was timed too fast, the starter would try to kick back when cranking. A vacuum gauge helps in this process and is a good diagnostic tool. You may have vacuum advance trouble in distributor or mechanical advance problems also.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 11:25 PM
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Did anyone mention #1 cylinder is front passenger side on a Y?
 
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 05:58 PM
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Did you say the harmonic balancer slips on Y-blocks? I like the way my engine runs but a timing light is nowhere near the timing marks. I did the whole distributor and wiring set up several times from scratch so I'm sure I.m timed with TDC on the number 1 cyclinder.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 06:12 PM
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Yeah they do slip. Mine has slipped about 2" over the years. I wouldn't trust the marks on it; better to relocate TDC and mark it with a sharpie or something. After I realized about this, all the timing problems which I had been having trouble with just made sense and I got the motor running sweet.
 
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