Starting issue......
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Reno, Nevada
Starting issue......
This is a new one to me. When I go to start my 99 PSD ( wether it's cold or not) the "wait to start" light goes off, I turn the key, and the engine cranks but no fire. The whole while there is a rapid ticking sound coming from either the steering column or under the dash(at least thats what it sounds like to me). Here's the weird part. If I stop cranking and just back off the key and start it without waiting for the light, it fires right up. No big deal when it's warm and I can fire it w/o worrying about the glow plugs. But when it's cold, Ihate to force her over.
Is there a solenoid or relay somewhere in cab that I'm missing? I just replaced my fuel pump relay (drivers side under hood) not 2 months ago.
Is there a solenoid or relay somewhere in cab that I'm missing? I just replaced my fuel pump relay (drivers side under hood) not 2 months ago.
Smokin
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 8,849
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Sounds like weak batteries to me. That electrical clack you hear is probably due to the large drain on your electrical system, and the system will do that when it's low on juice.
When you let your GP's energize, try to start it, and then stop and try to start it again, it starts? right? does it run rough idle and puff out white smoke?
When you let your GP's energize, try to start it, and then stop and try to start it again, it starts? right? does it run rough idle and puff out white smoke?
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Reno, Nevada
Nope. No white smoke. I thought about the batteries as well. But THe batteries are under the same load. I don't stop cramking and let it sit. I'm saying I back off the key, immediatley turn it back over and it fires. Shouldn't the batteries be under the same load in both scenarios? aside from (obviously) the drain of the plugs cycling, which would in theory have dropped the voltage already.
Smokin
Joined: Jun 2006
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Originally Posted by H2oRodeo
I'm saying I back off the key, immediatley turn it back over and it fires. Shouldn't the batteries be under the same load in both scenarios? aside from (obviously) the drain of the plugs cycling, which would in theory have dropped the voltage already.
Where do you live and what is the temperature there?
Edit. I see now you live in Reno.
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Reno, Nevada
Good point. Thank for the help. I've come to that painful realization that although I have 500,000 mile motor, The rest of the truck is showing it's age! Replacing stuff has been non-stop the last 2 months.
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Smokin
Joined: Jun 2006
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You may have some other electrical issue(s), but I would definitely rule out the batteries and dirty connections/posts before I start theorizing anything else.I chased around some cold start demons in my truck last year. I ended up having to replace the GPR, batteries, and my starter. I had a battery cable connection wiggle its way off a post one time, the ground off the passenger's side. It made that rapid click sound you described.
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Reno, Nevada
I've done the starter, solenoid, GPR, and fuel pump relay all within the last 5 months. I think you're probably right on track with the batteries. I'll post back and let ya know. Thanks man.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Lisa is dead on with the battery post. I am betting you do not have the voltage necessary to crank and power the PCM at the same time. It needs 10.5 and when it falls below that you can hear the clicking of relays and it is not going to start.
Putting the batteries on a charger or whatever ought to prove this out or load test them. When you quickly cycle the key it allows the system the voltage to start before the drain goes below 10.5 as the GP system pulls it down. You could always put a DMM on the batts or GPR and see how far it is going down. Bet you would be surprised. Even a healthy system can pull down to the low 11v area as the GPs heat up.
As for the part about one battery to do this or that, they are hooked together and that prevents us from having to have a huge single battery.
I am sending reps Lisa.
Putting the batteries on a charger or whatever ought to prove this out or load test them. When you quickly cycle the key it allows the system the voltage to start before the drain goes below 10.5 as the GP system pulls it down. You could always put a DMM on the batts or GPR and see how far it is going down. Bet you would be surprised. Even a healthy system can pull down to the low 11v area as the GPs heat up.
As for the part about one battery to do this or that, they are hooked together and that prevents us from having to have a huge single battery.
I am sending reps Lisa.
It's 5:00 here, i'll drink to that.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 276
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From: Linden, VA
Not trying to hijack the thread but I do have a similar problem. I have the clicking coming from the injector driver module relay. This relay's coil receives voltage at the same time as the PCM relay and I don't think the PCM actually comes to life because I never even get the WTS light. In addition to this, while the relay is chattering, the fuel pump relay does not close so the truck will not start. I am thinking it is not batteries in my case because the engine turns over plenty fast.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
You didn't state the year of your truck but fuse #30 under dash is for the PCM and the fuel bowl heater in my 99. Check your manual. If that fuse is blow disconnect heater at back of fuel bowl and replace fuse. Hope it's that simple.
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