quick question
>(10:1 or less) the clevo that this cramk would go into is only rated >at 165hp from the books i have. I already have a better cam, 750 ?>Holley or 650 carter carb. Along with headers and either rework the >stock 2V heads or buyy some aussie heeads off of ebay. I was >thinking that maybe a stroker crank would really make this motor >shine. But now what you guys are saying about it i am starting to >think that it might be such a good idea. But keep the ideas coming i >am still thinking about it.
I don't think you need to stroke a 351 to get 325HP. Use headers, 4 barrel carb (what's your cam?) and work the Ausie heads. Even with 10:1 compression you should be able to get 325 easy enough. While stroking the engine will make it more stretable, it will reduce the ability of the clevo to rev.
>P.S. i would prefer the clevo cause i like the higher reving
>motors for preformance reasons.
Then as posted above, don't stroke that motor. Long stroke engines are not good for high RPM. The shorter the stroke the better the high RPM potential.
335C.
Last year I pulled my 650 Hp. motor to 8000 Rpm's pretty much most of the season.
I feel confendent that this motor will take all the abuse I can give it this year.
>automotive. I also want to be able to run it on pump gas to. So i >don't want to run high compression ratios. (10:1 or less) the clevo >that this cramk would go into is only rated at 165hp from the books i
>have.
I dont know your fear of a high cr. The quench heads will allow pump gas at 11:1 cr. So you should have no fears on that account. Now to address the 165hp for the engine, check the cr of that engine and the carb size. If you ran the open chambered heads the max pump gas cr would be about 9.5:1, you can usually figure about 50hp per 1 full point of cr.
If i get the Aussie i can still run the motor on pump gas without the ping right? Ok that will help me quite a bit with this.
So this is what i want to do (so far)
reworked assuie heads(ported, valve job, etc)
edlebrock intake
headers
750holley double pumper carb
cam (yet to be decided)
the rest to be decided once i decide on the stroker crank issue here
82' Flareside: zoom zoom doesn't even begin to describe it
2/4 Drop
Soon to have 325hp 351 Clevo
(maybe more,in a 3600lb truck)
Backed by a C6 with a 2000 rpm stall and a 3.50 9 incher
American Racing AR-23 (series 23) wheels
Upgraded interior
Soon to have a kick @$$ stereo
My opinion (not nesicarily correct)
I would NOT stroke that poor defecless old 351 Clevo out to 400 ci, basically because they were not meant to do that.
Stroking it will (as already pointed out) cost a lot an involve cutting away a lot of metal which will weaken the block, and, in the process increase stress an strain on the whole engine. A long stoke is the worst thing in the world if you want to rev, (and the 351 cleveland is a typically fairly high revving engine with several factory clevos capable of 6000 rpm or more stock). If you must have more cubes and rev at the same time (power), go for an engine with bigger pistons.
A long stroke is good for pulling (torque) and if this is what you want go for the 400.
335C >
OK Your wrong in your thinking here, The 400 is a 351C with an inch taller deck hieght right. Well I stroked my 400 to 4.200 with out have to remove any metal from the block, the connecting rods miss the cam by a good .500 And I think I could still get a bigger stroke in this motor without having to mess with it to much.
My next stroker motor is going to be left to the crank grinder, I'm going to have him see just how much he can stroke a drop forged blank with a 2.100 journal. Oliver rods have a 6.800 rod with the 2.100 big end that just might give me a 4.500 stroker motor. OR a 466 Cid 400
How well does the clevo respond to lets say a 100hp shot of nitrous?
82' Flareside: zoom zoom doesn't even begin to describe it
2/4 Drop
Soon to have 325hp 351 Clevo
(maybe more,in a 3600lb truck)
Backed by a C6 with a 2000 rpm stall and a 3.50 9 incher
American Racing AR-23 (series 23) wheels
Upgraded interior
Soon to have a kick @$$ stereo
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
How bout running the clevo on propane and run a high compression rate like 13:1 or 14:1 along with the proper set of valves and a cam that can run at high rpms(up to 7000 or higher not good for towing but hey just buy another ford to do that)? I'm pretty sure that that would put the power up and over 350. I wonder how well this would work with the funny gas
82' Flareside: zoom zoom doesn't even begin to describe it
2/4 Drop
Soon to have 325hp 351 Clevo
(maybe more,in a 3600lb truck)
Backed by a C6 with a 2000 rpm stall and a 3.50 9 incher
American Racing AR-23 (series 23) wheels
Upgraded interior
Soon to have a kick @$$ stereo
(I am not trying to start an argument, just stating my ideas)
>Well gee you mean I should be running my Bored and Stroked
>400 to 8000 to 9000 Rpm's then ??
No in my opinion you shouldn't. Stress on that engine is going to be out of this world and to run it that fast you would problably have to runn the tollerences pretty loose. Basically the longer the stroke of an engine the harder it becomes for the crank to stop the piston via the conrod. It usually ends in failure of one or more of the major components.
>'
>Last year I pulled my 650 Hp. motor to 8000 Rpm's pretty
>much most of the season.
>
The season? How long was that? How long did the motor actually run and when did it either blow or need rebuilding? A 400 cleveland running at 8000rpm ++ is not gunna last long.
>I feel confendent that this motor will take all the abuse I
>can give it this year.
Is is a road registered daily driver or a 'play toy' you ony use on special occasions?
335C
(I am not trying to start an argument, just stating my ideas)
>Well gee you mean I should'nt be running my Bored and Stroked
>400 to 8000 to 9000 Rpm's then ??
No in my opinion you shouldn't. Stress on that engine is going to be out of this world and to run it that fast you would problably have to runn the tollerences pretty loose. Basically the longer the stroke of an engine the harder it becomes for the crank to stop the piston via the conrod. It usually ends in failure of one or more of the major components.
>'
>Last year I pulled my 650 Hp. motor to 8000 Rpm's pretty
>much most of the season.
>
The season? How long was that? How long did the motor actually run and when did it either blow or need rebuilding? A 400 cleveland running at 8000rpm ++ is not gunna last long.
>I feel confendent that this motor will take all the abuse I
>can give it this year.
Is is a road registered daily driver or a 'play toy' you ony use on special occasions?
335C
OK Here's the jest to all your question here .
First off this is not a Street Truck This is a Super Stock, Modified Pulling Truck made to do one thing.
That's to Pull a 30,000 Pound Sled down a 300 foot Clay track too see who can pull it the Closest to the end.
How long was the season: it was 13 Pulls and I run two classes at each pull and there was one invataional so I ran it on the track 27 times.
Most of my pulls last 23 to 25 Sec. So if you add all the Track time together it come close to 7 min. at 8000 Rpm's.
Did it blow up : NO it's this years backup motor.
Thanks for the info.
OK, I accept that runnning 8 or 9 grand is possible and may work for racing/pulling but not for long. I would NEVER try to run any of my 351 or 302 Clevelands out to 8000 rpm, because I want them to last for years. For me 7000 rpm is absolute max, with a fully race built [ie. 8000 rpm conrods, crank, high rpm valve gear etc.] 351 Cleveland, and a stock one is considerably less.
I still maintain that an engine with a shorter stroke can handle higher rpm than one with a long stroke.
335C
82' Flareside: zoom zoom doesn't even begin to describe it
2/4 Drop
Soon to have 325hp 351 Clevo
(maybe more,in a 3600lb truck)
Backed by a C6 with a 2000 rpm stall and a 3.50 9 incher
American Racing AR-23 (series 23) wheels
Upgraded interior
Soon to have a kick @$$ stereo



