Replaceing my front fuel pump?
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2006
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Replaceing my front fuel pump?
I have a 1985 F250 2wd 460 standard cab.
I've got two tanks, both metal, and they're setup with a return system.
I'm trying to buy a fuel pump, but I don't know how to figure out which one I need. Best I understand, I have a 22g or 19g front tank, but I can't figure out which one.
Is this on a door code, or an easy way to tell?
I've got two tanks, both metal, and they're setup with a return system.
I'm trying to buy a fuel pump, but I don't know how to figure out which one I need. Best I understand, I have a 22g or 19g front tank, but I can't figure out which one.
Is this on a door code, or an easy way to tell?
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2006
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Is there any chance of aftermarket or optional tanks?
I could have sworn I remember my fron tank holding north of 30 gallons when I used to drive the truck, and I've always thought my rear tank was about 10-12...
I could have sworn I remember my fron tank holding north of 30 gallons when I used to drive the truck, and I've always thought my rear tank was about 10-12...
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,826
Likes: 101
From: Martinsburg, WV
more info
Measure the length of the front tank, the only two options available for the front tank on a standard chassis were 16 and 19 gallon. The rear was a standard 19 gallon with an optional 38 gallon unit. Cab/Chassis vehicles may have had other options, but I have no listings on those. the 16 gallon measures 42 3/8" with the flange and the 19 gallon measures 58 7/8" with the flange. Your truck should have the 19 gallon front tank being standard cab F250 long box. I have Airtex#s for the pump assembly and the seperate components as well. As Follows:
COMPLETE UNIT W/ SENDER: E2138S
SEPERATE PUMP AND SOCK W/O SENDER OR BRACKET : PUMP = E2025 - SOCK = FS10
These numbers are the same for Master/Airtex, any major parts supplier should be able to work off that. My personal reccomendation would be the entire assembly, that way you dont have to worry about rusty components and the sender not working when you reinstall the setup.
Hope that helps ya.
COMPLETE UNIT W/ SENDER: E2138S
SEPERATE PUMP AND SOCK W/O SENDER OR BRACKET : PUMP = E2025 - SOCK = FS10
These numbers are the same for Master/Airtex, any major parts supplier should be able to work off that. My personal reccomendation would be the entire assembly, that way you dont have to worry about rusty components and the sender not working when you reinstall the setup.
Hope that helps ya.
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Elder User
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Well, I'm gonna have to drop these tanks at work and see whats going on. I know my front tank is full, but with a bad pump, and I know I never got more than 10-11 gallons out of my rear, so I'll have to see if my rear tank has a broken pickup or something.
I know I need new senders. When my front tank said empty, that meant it had 10 gallons. When my rear tank said empty, it was DRY.
I know I need new senders. When my front tank said empty, that meant it had 10 gallons. When my rear tank said empty, it was DRY.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Martinsburg, WV
Ok I found some more info, There was a 22 gallon center tank, but it is such a rare option that I doubt you have to worry about it, looks like it may have been a cab/chassis tank. The Airtex/Master # for the rear 19 gallon sender assy. is E2128S if you need it.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,776
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From: Lorain County, Ohio
[QUOTE=Handegard]Well, I'm gonna have to drop these tanks at work and see whats going on. I know my front tank is full, but with a bad pump, ... QUOTE]
With a full tank you might want to think about pulling the bed, not dropping the tank. That's about 150 lbs of liquid sloshing around. Pulling the bed makes fuel pump jobs much easier.
With a full tank you might want to think about pulling the bed, not dropping the tank. That's about 150 lbs of liquid sloshing around. Pulling the bed makes fuel pump jobs much easier.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
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[QUOTE=lsrx101]
BTDT several times.
The way Ford setup most of their filler necks on the tanks, It is near impossible to get anything in there to siphon out the gas first.
Originally Posted by Handegard
Well, I'm gonna have to drop these tanks at work and see whats going on. I know my front tank is full, but with a bad pump, ... QUOTE]
With a full tank you might want to think about pulling the bed, not dropping the tank. That's about 150 lbs of liquid sloshing around. Pulling the bed makes fuel pump jobs much easier.
With a full tank you might want to think about pulling the bed, not dropping the tank. That's about 150 lbs of liquid sloshing around. Pulling the bed makes fuel pump jobs much easier.
The way Ford setup most of their filler necks on the tanks, It is near impossible to get anything in there to siphon out the gas first.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2004
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Im doing that exact job right now. Be sure that if you order just a pump to get a new strainer! mine didnt tell me that in the online order place. But it's pretty easy if you can get the tank empty. Mine was half full, so slightly awkward. But overall not too bad. Same truck basically, but 2 years older.
No parts stores!
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 292
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by ri_truck_guy
Another big advantage of pulling the bed is you can run the truck and test everything to make sure its right before buttoning it up...don't have that option when dropping the tanks.
Maybe Ford should design a bed system that folds up out of the way to get to these fuel pumps ??
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,826
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From: Martinsburg, WV
Originally Posted by ri_truck_guy
Dewalt makes a pretty good sawzall.....
Sorry I couldn't resist, I grew up in Newport News... Hung out in Suffolk a bit!
/Thread Hijack done