Intake Manifold Gasket Time. Pull Engine?
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 68
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From: Chandler, AZ
Originally Posted by 96_4wdr
195d thermostat only. the PCM/ECU is programmed for that temp. you will loose fuel mileage and have poor operation with a colder temp
the black rubber connector is a push on fit to a steel nipple on the EGR valve.
the yellow hose under the protective sheath may be able to splice or connect back onto the rubber connector. it may be an adhesive or force fit. never had one apart. you may have to replace with a junke yard use tested part.
been 40 years since i've seen coolant ports so badly plugged. must be the alkaline water in the area there and someone using tap water. especially bad thing in these modern engines with all the dissimilar metals and corrosion prone metals such as aluminum. how's your heater cores? i know some owners try to save money in the non freezing areas by not using antifreeze, but bad idea. the modern high stressed multi metal cooling system requires the anti corrosives in AF to stay alive. also raises the boil over temp.
once you get the intake manifold back in, before installed thermostat, back blow through the thermostat hole with a garden hose at full pressure. make sure heater hoses are disconnected first to protect core.
then when up and running, before adding antifreeze, run one of the heavy duty cooling system cleaner scalers such as Prestone. flush multiple times before adding antifreeze with distilled water. your best bet there with the alkaline water is to get the premix antifreeze solution, safer for engine.
i would take the intake manifold done to your local engine rebuilder mechanic and have it dip cleaned in solvent. wipe all the crud out of the block valley. change oil last step before firing up to get rid of pieces of crud broken off.
soak the FI tips in Gumout Regane Concentrate or Chevron Techron Concentrate over night. from the deposits built up on some of the runners, there looks like there may be issues with injectors functioning properly. i would suggest send them out for professionally cleaning and testing.
yep, i like the quick knowledgeble service at our site sponsor Rockauto.
the black rubber connector is a push on fit to a steel nipple on the EGR valve.
the yellow hose under the protective sheath may be able to splice or connect back onto the rubber connector. it may be an adhesive or force fit. never had one apart. you may have to replace with a junke yard use tested part.
been 40 years since i've seen coolant ports so badly plugged. must be the alkaline water in the area there and someone using tap water. especially bad thing in these modern engines with all the dissimilar metals and corrosion prone metals such as aluminum. how's your heater cores? i know some owners try to save money in the non freezing areas by not using antifreeze, but bad idea. the modern high stressed multi metal cooling system requires the anti corrosives in AF to stay alive. also raises the boil over temp.
once you get the intake manifold back in, before installed thermostat, back blow through the thermostat hole with a garden hose at full pressure. make sure heater hoses are disconnected first to protect core.
then when up and running, before adding antifreeze, run one of the heavy duty cooling system cleaner scalers such as Prestone. flush multiple times before adding antifreeze with distilled water. your best bet there with the alkaline water is to get the premix antifreeze solution, safer for engine.
i would take the intake manifold done to your local engine rebuilder mechanic and have it dip cleaned in solvent. wipe all the crud out of the block valley. change oil last step before firing up to get rid of pieces of crud broken off.
soak the FI tips in Gumout Regane Concentrate or Chevron Techron Concentrate over night. from the deposits built up on some of the runners, there looks like there may be issues with injectors functioning properly. i would suggest send them out for professionally cleaning and testing.
yep, i like the quick knowledgeble service at our site sponsor Rockauto.
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Joined: Nov 2004
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PCguru-I wouldn't take a chance with it. Even if you were able to somehow ward off---for now any type of problems---there is NO way to know for sure--Do you want to take that chance? I know I wouldn't. I'm sure that this is either one of your daily driver or your main vehicle. As luck would have it and the bad type of luck is the one I speak of either you or a loved one will get stranded.
Don't take the risk or a short cut-----use this one as a door stop and get out of the problem once and for all. GO GET ANOTHER ONE.
You will always be wondering what, when, or how iit will fail and also what the clup of hair is doing on your front seat. It is the hair off of your head from worry.
Just my 2 cents worth--I mean no disrespect---what ever the cost is--it will be worth the time and agrevation you'll save from "REPEATING THIS JOB!
Don't take the risk or a short cut-----use this one as a door stop and get out of the problem once and for all. GO GET ANOTHER ONE.
You will always be wondering what, when, or how iit will fail and also what the clup of hair is doing on your front seat. It is the hair off of your head from worry.
Just my 2 cents worth--I mean no disrespect---what ever the cost is--it will be worth the time and agrevation you'll save from "REPEATING THIS JOB!
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Chandler, AZ
Originally Posted by bozzzz94
PCguru-I wouldn't take a chance with it. Even if you were able to somehow ward off---for now any type of problems---there is NO way to know for sure--Do you want to take that chance? I know I wouldn't. I'm sure that this is either one of your daily driver or your main vehicle. As luck would have it and the bad type of luck is the one I speak of either you or a loved one will get stranded.
Don't take the risk or a short cut-----use this one as a door stop and get out of the problem once and for all. GO GET ANOTHER ONE.
You will always be wondering what, when, or how iit will fail and also what the clup of hair is doing on your front seat. It is the hair off of your head from worry.
Just my 2 cents worth--I mean no disrespect---what ever the cost is--it will be worth the time and agrevation you'll save from "REPEATING THIS JOB!
Don't take the risk or a short cut-----use this one as a door stop and get out of the problem once and for all. GO GET ANOTHER ONE.
You will always be wondering what, when, or how iit will fail and also what the clup of hair is doing on your front seat. It is the hair off of your head from worry.
Just my 2 cents worth--I mean no disrespect---what ever the cost is--it will be worth the time and agrevation you'll save from "REPEATING THIS JOB!
What I was wondering is if there was anything out there that is capable of doing the job. I know Industro Weld will do it, and I think 3M makes a product similar to it, but there's another one that I can't remember the name of that's supposed to bond chemically with soft metals and actually becomes welded to it. If none of those work, there's always bubble gum or I could melt down all my daughters' rap CD's and fill it with those.
I'm going to call around tomorrow to see if I can find ne at a local yard that is already pulled before I run down to Pick-n-Pull and have to pull one myself. Thanks for the concern and the advice.Regards,
Steve
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
worst i've ever seen from coolant corrosion for less than 20 years old.
junke yard dog used replacement and demand a return if you find holes or cracks in it.
look at the FI injector holes in the fuel rail closely for corrosion pitting. with that much corrosion old coolant flying around the engine compartment, the aluminum fuel rail may have some heavy corrosion also. the FI holes are the worst place.
get one off a 4L Ranger or Explorer, far easier to pull.
junke yard dog used replacement and demand a return if you find holes or cracks in it.
look at the FI injector holes in the fuel rail closely for corrosion pitting. with that much corrosion old coolant flying around the engine compartment, the aluminum fuel rail may have some heavy corrosion also. the FI holes are the worst place.
get one off a 4L Ranger or Explorer, far easier to pull.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 1
From: Orland USA
I'm just wondering what the water jackets look like in the heads. Myself I would jerk the heads and have a good look at the head gaskets. Wouldn't what to have to do a head gaskest job 6 mts from now. In fact it might be time for a compleate rebuild.
JaY
JaY
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Chandler, AZ
Originally Posted by JTHill24
I'm just wondering what the water jackets look like in the heads. Myself I would jerk the heads and have a good look at the head gaskets. Wouldn't what to have to do a head gaskest job 6 mts from now. In fact it might be time for a compleate rebuild.
JaY
JaY
You're right though. The problem is I've barely got the know-how to do this particular job (as long as Copper and 96_4wdr don't desert me that is!) You see, this task is basically unplug and unbolt then bolt and re-connect. There's no adjustments, dialing-in, specs to be followed, etc. As long as I keep track of the order in which I took it apart, I should (emphasis on should) be able to put it back together. Doing a head job on the other hand...... well........ that's outta my league I believe.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Chandler, AZ
Originally Posted by 96_4wdr
worst i've ever seen from coolant corrosion for less than 20 years old.
junke yard dog used replacement and demand a return if you find holes or cracks in it.
look at the FI injector holes in the fuel rail closely for corrosion pitting. with that much corrosion old coolant flying around the engine compartment, the aluminum fuel rail may have some heavy corrosion also. the FI holes are the worst place.
get one off a 4L Ranger or Explorer, far easier to pull.
junke yard dog used replacement and demand a return if you find holes or cracks in it.
look at the FI injector holes in the fuel rail closely for corrosion pitting. with that much corrosion old coolant flying around the engine compartment, the aluminum fuel rail may have some heavy corrosion also. the FI holes are the worst place.
get one off a 4L Ranger or Explorer, far easier to pull.
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Chandler, AZ
Originally Posted by 96_4wdr
worst i've ever seen from coolant corrosion for less than 20 years old.
junke yard dog used replacement and demand a return if you find holes or cracks in it.
look at the FI injector holes in the fuel rail closely for corrosion pitting. with that much corrosion old coolant flying around the engine compartment, the aluminum fuel rail may have some heavy corrosion also. the FI holes are the worst place.
get one off a 4L Ranger or Explorer, far easier to pull.
junke yard dog used replacement and demand a return if you find holes or cracks in it.
look at the FI injector holes in the fuel rail closely for corrosion pitting. with that much corrosion old coolant flying around the engine compartment, the aluminum fuel rail may have some heavy corrosion also. the FI holes are the worst place.
get one off a 4L Ranger or Explorer, far easier to pull.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
if you're flush with cash, call your local auto speed racing shop for local FI injector cleaning and testing, most larger cities have at least one FI serv. comp. there are lots of companies on the internet that provide the same service.
takes about 1 week turnaround from ship out until back with most.
i have one here in Wa. I use but won't recommend one to forum members
most run $15 to $25 per FI
if you're limiting expenditures, go with the overnite soak mentioned above
JT and mormakil are right. with that much corrosion, the time to replace the head gaskets and timing chain cover is now while it's torn open.
if a head gasket goes, it usually fries the engine from overheating quickly. by the time the engine shows signs, it's already toast.
takes 2 people to jockey the heads back into an Aero and align them on the block without gasket damage
have the heads magnafluxed and checked for flatness at a speed shop or engine machine shop.
new head bolts, gaskets and head work $200 max
cliff in the other vancouver usa
takes about 1 week turnaround from ship out until back with most.
i have one here in Wa. I use but won't recommend one to forum members
most run $15 to $25 per FI
if you're limiting expenditures, go with the overnite soak mentioned above
JT and mormakil are right. with that much corrosion, the time to replace the head gaskets and timing chain cover is now while it's torn open.
if a head gasket goes, it usually fries the engine from overheating quickly. by the time the engine shows signs, it's already toast.
takes 2 people to jockey the heads back into an Aero and align them on the block without gasket damage
have the heads magnafluxed and checked for flatness at a speed shop or engine machine shop.
new head bolts, gaskets and head work $200 max
cliff in the other vancouver usa
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 68
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From: Chandler, AZ
I removed the fuel rail and was extremely surprised that there is absolutely no erosion anywhere on it. I closely examined the injector holes and the whole thing is like brand new. Yay!! I'm taking the strong suggestions by all of you to change the head gaskets under advisement and will probably do it this coming week. The parts for the current job won't be here until Wed. or Thurs. so I can tackle that while I'm waiting. Tomorrow I'm going hunting for a manifold that I don't have to pull myself. Hopefully it won't cost an arm and a leg. Thanks again to everyone who has helped me with this endeavor. It has certainly been a learning process on many fronts. I'm still trying to digest the dealer trying to charge me $280.00 to replace the radiator hoses. I'll never forget that one!
I'll pickup this thread later in the week as things start coming together.
Warmest regards and a million thanks!!
Steve
I'll pickup this thread later in the week as things start coming together.
Warmest regards and a million thanks!!
Steve
Last edited by copper_90680; Mar 3, 2008 at 10:17 AM. Reason: Removing personal data
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
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From: Southern California
Hi Steve,
Before you buy a new intake manifold, please take a look and see if that part of the manifold is even connected to a water passage. If my memory is working right, in that area, the head does not even have a coolant passage.
Before you buy a new intake manifold, please take a look and see if that part of the manifold is even connected to a water passage. If my memory is working right, in that area, the head does not even have a coolant passage.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
pcguru
i would suggest that you remove your alldata user name and password. there are professionals on this forum that will cause you problems over it. your account will also be abused. just send it via email or pm to those that you wish to have it.
still have to replace intake manifold. the thermostat mount hole is a mess and will be unreliable sealing. the corroded rear passage seal area would be highly questionable to building up and guarenteeing a seal.
spray down the exhaust manifold and exhaust flange bolts now with PB blaster penetrant daily until you get ready to remove them. 2 24 hr soakings help.
i would suggest that you remove your alldata user name and password. there are professionals on this forum that will cause you problems over it. your account will also be abused. just send it via email or pm to those that you wish to have it.
still have to replace intake manifold. the thermostat mount hole is a mess and will be unreliable sealing. the corroded rear passage seal area would be highly questionable to building up and guarenteeing a seal.
spray down the exhaust manifold and exhaust flange bolts now with PB blaster penetrant daily until you get ready to remove them. 2 24 hr soakings help.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: Chandler, AZ
Originally Posted by copper_90680
Hi Steve,
Before you buy a new intake manifold, please take a look and see if that part of the manifold is even connected to a water passage. If my memory is working right, in that area, the head does not even have a coolant passage.
Before you buy a new intake manifold, please take a look and see if that part of the manifold is even connected to a water passage. If my memory is working right, in that area, the head does not even have a coolant passage.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: Chandler, AZ
Originally Posted by 96_4wdr
pcguru
still have to replace intake manifold. the thermostat mount hole is a mess and will be unreliable sealing. the corroded rear passage seal area would be highly questionable to building up and guarenteeing a seal.
spray down the exhaust manifold and exhaust flange bolts now with PB blaster penetrant daily until you get ready to remove them. 2 24 hr soakings help.
still have to replace intake manifold. the thermostat mount hole is a mess and will be unreliable sealing. the corroded rear passage seal area would be highly questionable to building up and guarenteeing a seal.
spray down the exhaust manifold and exhaust flange bolts now with PB blaster penetrant daily until you get ready to remove them. 2 24 hr soakings help.
Thanks
Steve