I've seen others ask this question, but havent seen a clear answer yet. I am not sure why, but it seems that the pillar pods I've seen require you to drill out your factory pillar cover and install the gauge pod over the top of it. To me it is silly to do this when you could just make the gauge pod a "remove & replace" thing that could be removed later if you were selling the truck. Does anyone offer such a pod?

Also I need input on gauges.. I want boost and pyro for sure but and also fuel pressure and trans temp. I'm not sure I want to run a live fuel line into the cab for potential leak reasons and do I really need trans temp for a hand shaker or do I just want it? Give me your thoughts and wisdom.

 

I would say yes to the trans temp, I was surprised at how hot my trans gets when plowing. I wouldn't of known with out trans temp, so now I'm adding the true cool max. Suppose to reduce temps 40*.

You can buy fuel pressure gauges that are electronic, and don't bring fuel to the gauge.

 

I don't know anyone that has a piller gauge kit to replace the original piller. You could mount gauges under the dash, but that would be hard to read boost and EGTs.

 

Yes, that would only make sense, but I didn't see one when I was looking for gauges and I looked for about three months! Wait till you get it. It is the same exact pillar w/o that two or three tabs that hold it on. They just trim a little off the top and bottom so they "sleeve" each other.

IDK, I have an auto.

Fuel pressure. You do not need to run a live fuel line into the cab with some gauge configs. To start I have seen people put it out on the cowl by the windshield washer shooter. OOOOOORRRRR They make "isolators" or something like that. IIRC that is what they are called. They make it so your fuel gauge doesn't have actual fuel running to the back of the gauge. A lot of your better gauge mfg's offer this. Check out diesel manor or ITP. Maybe I will go do that...

 

This one says it is an electronic sending unit. This leads me to believe there are only wires running to the gauge.

http://www.itpdiesel.com/store.php?c...on=show_detail

Getting closer, here is a site that says there is such a thing.

http://www.freepatentsonline.com/3718046.html

I WIN!!! (but you still would have a small antifreeze drip if it fails...but that is better than a continuous stream of diesel fuel!!!)

http://www.pdrdiesel.com/oldsite/TechIsolator.htm

 

I would do either engine oil temp or water temp in the last pod.

 

I felt the same way, but i found a factory replacement trim for the a piller for <$30. The reason for cutting out the trim piece is to allow the wires to pass thru. When i did my guage install, i pre wired everything with a lot of excess wire so i could fish them into th edash and make all the nessary connection. the wosrt part is the pre turbo pyro probe install. Luckily you have a 7.3 which has the perfect spot in the ex. manifold to drill and tap the probe. I started by magnitizing all the nessary drill bits to begin with a small bit and work my way to the proper size( i'll have to get that info later, as its on my desktop ) keeping the metal shaving as small as possible. I also used grease to hold the shaving to the bit . After the hole is done i used a magnetic probe to sweep the interior of the manifold. before i install the probe i cranked the engine for about 30 secs. to blow the smaller stuff the magnet missed out the exhaust. trans temp sensor will go in the test port on the side of the trans. thats the simplest connection for the whole project, I drilled the port for my boost on the driverside of the wye, i pulled the IC boot off stuffed a rag on the wye and drilled the hole , vacumed the shavings out, pulled the rag, added the fitting and connected the IC boot and the boost tube. and vio-la done.
I run Boost , pyro, and trans temp and once i get my bypass filters done i'm building a fuel pressure guage to fit under the hood and may run to to a guage located out on the hood it self.

 

Never use grease.

 

I went with the water temp gauge. The difference between the the factory idiot gauge and what is really going on can be quite different, especially when towing. I have seen my temp gauge show 220 and climbing with the factory showing normal with no movement.

 

why not? i did it and didn't have any trouble. But i used it sparingly.

 

"They" say it will make the shavings stick to the inside of the exhaust and they can not be sucked out w a magnet. They will then become dislodged later in life when the heat and push of the exhaust dislodge them at high rpm's causing more damage then if they went out at idle.

What to do when drilling:
- Smallest to largest drill bit ONE BIT AT A TIME. The fillings will always be as small as possible this way.
- Put the shop vac on the hole after drilling and after tapping.
- Stick your magnet on a stick in the hole


http://www.dieselmanor.com/diy/PSD3-...73gauge-p1.htm

 

I understand and thats logicial, however I magnetized my bits and did the gradual increase in bit size also and used the grease method , as well as sweeping the interior of the manifold with a magnetic probe . At the time there were several versions for installing, I've had my guages done since 2003, that was the version I was given for that time.

 

Good lord... Drill (with the correct size bit the first time), Tap, Install probe and drive away... What a waste of time stepping bits, vacuming, greaseing... I have done well over 20 manifolds that way, think about gravity people, your drilling up, when was the last time you saw something fall up?

As far as the pod goes, I have test fit a prototype quad pod three times that might be coming out in a few months. Also moves the gauges more inline with the pillar. But I think the project was put on hold for a while... But it was a full replacement pillar.

 

I don't classifiy it as wasting time. I call it being cautious , due to the fact Turbos are not cheap and I feel that taking my time and is benificial for me, I am sure if somthing goes wrong I can remedy it, but I always err on the side of caution, because Murphy is watching and he comes by when you least expect it. Gravity has nothing to do with it, there will be some shavings inside the manifold 90% of the time. Evryone had their methods for doing certian things.

 

I am with you. Grease may have been the way to go five years ago, but it seems more and more people to date disagree with grease than agree with it.

It was not a waste of time stepping up bits gradually. It must have too...wow...8....nooo.....9 minutes to do!!!!!!!!! Think about it. Cordless drills, keyless chucks, EASY to drill metal Why not!?! Yeah gravity is there, but it will always push a few shavings in. All the shavings on the magnet were plenty small that the turbo would probably not notice them, but I don't care. It was too easy to not do it!

In the end we all do it different...that is why there is a forum