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So the last few times I've started my truck cold. . . below 20 no plug, it smokes the white eye burnind diesel smelling smoke. And tons of it. It will stop when A
:truck warms up
B: Rev it up enough
C: get on it hard, and it can be in low gear. . . I'll hammer down(still cold) it will studder and hesitate until it gets to about 2600 rpm and then it roars to life. . . smoke clears. . . runs like normal.
Only thing I am thinking is that I have a sticking injector. Makes sense as it also feels like I have lost a cylinder during the ordeal. So the only problem is finding out which one. I don't think I'm throwing any codes. . . I'll have to check. Any other thoughts? I have the original CPS so i don't have to worry about the new one.
Tim
That and a test of the glow plugs. If all eight are good, check the compression.
A low cylinder will act like that, smoke and engine miss, then as soon as the engine gets going fast enough for that cylinder to get hot enough to fire, it clears and runs fine all day long.
The thing about diesels is VERY SIMPLE.
Compression makes heat for ignition.
Good compression = good heat.
Low compression = low heat = no ignition.
.
They've "fancified" it with electronic controls, but the basic operating principles cannot be changed.
I havn't checked the ccv, and I havn't done a CCT either. Computer is down. Problem is won't AE cancel the test if the oil temp is too low? I really don't think its a compression issue. The named cylinder comes to life immediately when I'm working it as if whatever is sticking. . . unsticks. ANd it NEVER faults again until it sits for a while. If it were a compression thing, I would think it would gradually get better while the engine warms up. I got it to run fine with is very cold still but just working it harder and higher rpms than I normally would.
Tim
Injectors dont stick... You need to let the truck warm up. Why are you rodding on it when its cold? Do a Glow plug test, replace what is bad and let the truck warm up before you drive it.
I havn't checked the ccv, and I havn't done a CCT either. Computer is down. Problem is won't AE cancel the test if the oil temp is too low? I really don't think its a compression issue. The named cylinder comes to life immediately when I'm working it as if whatever is sticking. . . unsticks. ANd it NEVER faults again until it sits for a while. If it were a compression thing, I would think it would gradually get better while the engine warms up. I got it to run fine with is very cold still but just working it harder and higher rpms than I normally would.
Tim
Not always, but in some cases yes.
All you have to do to get a cylinder firing is to cross that temperature thresh hold and then it's good for as long as it's running.
Cool it back down and the problem returns.
And Joe aka the Gauge has a good point. Never flog a cold engine. Especially at high rpm. The cold oil will not flow fast enough to the rod bearings.
Case in point. Audi has some very specific instructions on thier old 5 cylinder in-line engines to never apply full throttle until the oil temperature is up. They even include an oil temperature guage as part of the factory package.
And those engines are good for 500HP without modification of any sort.
One of the best engine designs on the planet IMO. Wish they still made them today.
Injectors dont stick... You need to let the truck warm up. Why are you rodding on it when its cold? Do a Glow plug test, replace what is bad and let the truck warm up before you drive it.
Trust me its always my standard procedure to warm it up before I make any power. To be honest, I didn't even need a lot of power to get it to clear up last night. . . with the chip on stock. . . low gear, I practically had my foot to the floor to get it to go. . . and it stumbled its way up to about 2600 RPM when it finally cleared up. So I'm not out there tearing up the tires. I am being a little harder on it while its cold so I can see if its and engine temp only related issue. . . which it is not. You think this issue could just be a bad glowplug? Once its running, i would think the glowplugs don't play a roll. Am I wrong?
Tim
My truck does the same exact thing and all I can tell you is that my truck did not do it UNTIL I had 4 injectors replaced on the drivers side. Now it does what you describe every morning with just a little smoke on the forst 2-3 minutes of warm-up. Mine takes about 10-15 minutes of (easy) drive before I'm confident enough to get on it...at which case it does what you say and runs perfect the rest of the day. My shop (same geniuses that haven't fixed it yet) said my compression was good when they checked it) so I'm thinking I have an injector or o-ring issue.
Had the same exact thing happen and I had a broken ring on #8 and when it was cold it would shudder and smoke and when it warmed up it started firing again. I ended up putting a new long block in. Hope you luck is better and its just an injector. What color is the smoke? Blue...White...? Any also like Kwik said how is your blow by? I had a massasive amount at the fill cap.
i want to chime in here and tell you i had this when a few GPs were bad...it would start in the morning real rough, and a cylinder(s) wouldnt fire until they got enough heat to them...it did exactly what you describe, foot to floor goign 15 mph blowing white smoke, then bang it fired and everything cleared up..replaced the glow plugs and have this problem no longer
Test the GP system, make sure thats all good. Then watch your ICP when its cold and you drive it nice. Could be a bad O ring on an injector, could be many things...
In my case...replaced ICP, glow plugs, glow plug relay, EBP sensor and tube and most recently..IDM. Same results. My last and only conclusion is an injector or injector o-ring. I feel like the only 'wasted' money is the IDM but it was only $150...everything else needed replacement anyway.