400 bottom end
>take, and what will break first? Please don't tell me it's
>the crank... Does anybody know where I can find a forged
>crank for a 400M?
The 351M/400 block is plenty strong. Just ask Dan H.(Shazam), he's running an 800 HP stroked 400 with 2 bolt mains using ARP studs and a modified 351W girdle. I'd try to find a D7TE or D8 casting since Ford beefed up the main webs a little in those castings. I've never seen a steel crank for the 400 so I'd guess it would have to be a custom piece. I wouldn't bother with the expense of getting custom 4 bolt caps unless you're looking to make "crazy" amounts of power.
There's a few companys out there that will make you a Steel Crank for your 400. What they use is a 351C Drop forged blank and grind it the the 400 spec's. Expect to pay anywhere from $1300.00 to $1800.00 for one and plan ahead it'll take about 6 Months to get one made. I have Steel Cranks for my 400's From Moldex and Scat. and if I was to have to get another one I'd go with Moldex for my next one.Just because it Looks prettier all nestled in the bottom end with a nice set of Eagle or Oliver rods.
i was thinking of using a 351W stroker crank, which is basically what the SVO forging is for. speed-o-motive has "finished" nodular iron ones (3.85, 4.00, 4.17) for $264 to your door. they also have steel ones for "a few dollars" more.
from what i can tell, there are 3 differences.
the end of the crank where the damper goes is longer on a 400
the 400 has a sort of spacer part on the front
i think the 400 rods are narrower on the big end.
i don't know how hard it would be to make one of those work, but people used to put 400 cranks in a 351W's back in the day - so it seems like it shouldn't be too bad.
>
>Bored and Stroked 400 ,435 C.I. 799 H.P. 667 # T.Q.
What sort of internals are you running on it? I assume it blown to get that sort of power

D7TE or D8, which years are these? I have a 400 out of a 77 LTD2, I'm in Canada, but I don't know if the car is originally Canadian or not. The car is already crushed, so I can't go and check the VIN. Where should I look on the motor for casting marks?
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>>
>>Bored and Stroked 400 ,435 C.I. 799 H.P. 667 # T.Q.
>
>What sort of internals are you running on it? I assume it
>blown to get that sort of power
>
>D7TE or D8, which years are these? I have a 400 out of a 77
>LTD2, I'm in Canada, but I don't know if the car is
>originally Canadian or not. The car is already crushed, so
>I can't go and check the VIN. Where should I look on the
>motor for casting marks?
Heh...heh...you'd think that it would need to be blown or at least on the juice to make that kind of power but it's not. It's normally aspirated. You can find the recipe for Shazam's motor about half way down this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID12/142.html
The casting codes on M blocks are underneath the right bank of cylinders near the back of the block. D7 is '77 and D8 is '78
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I just saw some new Proline cranks at Flatlander racing. No price yet, but they are advertising a 4.5" 351W crank with 2.31" rod journals.
I don't know how it can fit the 351W block.
You're going to have to bear with me here, I just pulled the 400, and I don't know much about it. Looking for info, I got lots of good stuff, but I still don't know all the bearing diameters yet
So how much would a set of custom rods run me? I don't really want to stroke the engine, this thing will eventually be pushing 800 blown hp, and I want it to reach around 7000 rpm...
You're going to have to bear >with me here, I just pulled the 400, and I don't know much
>about it. Looking for info, I got lots of good stuff, but I
>still don't know all the bearing diameters yet
351M/400 main journals are 3.0", rod journals are 2.311"
You're going to have to bear >with me here, I just pulled the 400, and I don't know much
>about it. Looking for info, I got lots of good stuff, but I
>still don't know all the bearing diameters yet
>
>So how much would a set of custom rods run me? I don't
>really want to stroke the engine, this thing will eventually
>be pushing 800 blown hp, and I want it to reach around 7000
>rpm...
Well I'll tell you how much they cost, I picked up a set of Oliver 6.800 H beams with the 2.100 Journals and a .990 pin end . Cost $1595.00 Set of 8...... Are we having fun yet:-)
here are some examples of more common street/strip rod prices:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1852940654
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1853670839
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1854737974
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1854042583
Brian - are you sure the nodular cranks are 2.1" rod journals? i went and looked again, and the forged cranks are listed as 2.1, but on the nodular ones it doesn't say.
another useful tidbit of info that i never see is the rod WIDTH for both ends. it would be nice if there was a list somewhere with complete dimensions for every OEM forged rod made in the US in the last 50 years... i remember hearing about some chrysler & olds rods that work for something, if you do something to make them fit, but i can't remember what works for what and what you have to do to make it fit!
I'm not positive, it may be worth checking. Their other 351W stroker cranks said 2.1". If they were larger journals, balancing and fitting the block would be a lot harder.
Does anyone know where to find info on Proline cranks?




