patch panels?
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 118
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From: Eastern PA
This is where i will probably get mine. Although its for a 93 they are all the same. Depending on how bad the rust is you can replace the whole bed-side, most of the bedside or just the wheel arch lip. Prices seem to be reasonable compared to buying a new bed. I'll be welding my new panels in once i have a place to work on my truck.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2007
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why bother, the panels are fairly cheap like 60.00 and they are custom formed to match.
I can tell you the way I am doing mine. Buy the panel, trace the outline of the panel on the box. remove the panel and trace a new line 1/2" in from the line you just drew. This second line is where you will cut the bad section off from the truck. now the half " difference between the two lines you will first grind all the paint off down to bare medal, then crimp (with a special crimping tool) to form a recessed lip to lay the panel into. On the repair panel, pop holes in it again with a special tool, much like a paper whole punch, once you have this part done, dry fit the panel in place, using pop rivets to hold it once you are happy. Then using a mig welder, weld all of the holes that you popped in the repair panel. grind them smooth and you are ready for filler and paint.....
I can tell you the way I am doing mine. Buy the panel, trace the outline of the panel on the box. remove the panel and trace a new line 1/2" in from the line you just drew. This second line is where you will cut the bad section off from the truck. now the half " difference between the two lines you will first grind all the paint off down to bare medal, then crimp (with a special crimping tool) to form a recessed lip to lay the panel into. On the repair panel, pop holes in it again with a special tool, much like a paper whole punch, once you have this part done, dry fit the panel in place, using pop rivets to hold it once you are happy. Then using a mig welder, weld all of the holes that you popped in the repair panel. grind them smooth and you are ready for filler and paint.....
Senior User
Joined: May 2007
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I actually did this this weekend. I didn't want to spend the money on patch panels right now so I did a temporary fix just to stop the rust from spreading. I used a grinder and cut out the rust (I only had to cut the fender up about an inch, about 7" long). I then took rust stop primer and sprayed it everywhere, inner fender and out. After that dried, I tried my skill at fiberglass. I went ahead and glassed it to get it to form as good as possible, then used bondo and sandpaper to finish it. I then painted over it with the color matching paint you get at the parts store, and wetsanded it smooth before buffing it. All in all, it looks pretty good. Like I said I just don't want the rust to spread to where I can no longer fix it easily, so this was a pretty good temporary fix. It ended up costing probably thirty bucks to do it, and I'm hoping it lasts about two years.
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Belle Mead NJ
I grinded out all of the rust, then primed it up, used some sheet metal to fill the hole, used bondo to make the shape I want, then i primed it all up, and used Herculiner to make fender flares, if you want to go that way. I had to patch 1 of the spots I fixed, someone hit my truck and took off some of the Herculiner. So i touched it up with spray in bed liner.
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New User
Joined: Oct 2007
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thanks that sounds great. I did not realize the skins were that cheap. gotta get me one of those crimping tools. much easier than trying to butt weld the entire piece in. slash.
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Originally Posted by vasten
why bother, the panels are fairly cheap like 60.00 and they are custom formed to match.
I can tell you the way I am doing mine. Buy the panel, trace the outline of the panel on the box. remove the panel and trace a new line 1/2" in from the line you just drew. This second line is where you will cut the bad section off from the truck. now the half " difference between the two lines you will first grind all the paint off down to bare medal, then crimp (with a special crimping tool) to form a recessed lip to lay the panel into. On the repair panel, pop holes in it again with a special tool, much like a paper whole punch, once you have this part done, dry fit the panel in place, using pop rivets to hold it once you are happy. Then using a mig welder, weld all of the holes that you popped in the repair panel. grind them smooth and you are ready for filler and paint.....
I can tell you the way I am doing mine. Buy the panel, trace the outline of the panel on the box. remove the panel and trace a new line 1/2" in from the line you just drew. This second line is where you will cut the bad section off from the truck. now the half " difference between the two lines you will first grind all the paint off down to bare medal, then crimp (with a special crimping tool) to form a recessed lip to lay the panel into. On the repair panel, pop holes in it again with a special tool, much like a paper whole punch, once you have this part done, dry fit the panel in place, using pop rivets to hold it once you are happy. Then using a mig welder, weld all of the holes that you popped in the repair panel. grind them smooth and you are ready for filler and paint.....
Indeed well said.
Takes me back to doing body work on my old buick years ago.
I miss that car.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 159
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I found the crimp tool on Harbor freight's website for 40.00 and it is pneumatic. Great price for a do it yourselfer.
You crimp the truck and punch the holes in the panel. Reason being is the flange that you create recesses the panel enough to have it match up flat to the surrounding area.
It will make sense once you do it, plus to exxagerate it for demonstration purposes, take a peice of 1/2" plywood or sheet rock and lay one piece on top of the other offset ofcourse and imagine how you would make the seams become smooth, like a butt joint.
You crimp the truck and punch the holes in the panel. Reason being is the flange that you create recesses the panel enough to have it match up flat to the surrounding area.
It will make sense once you do it, plus to exxagerate it for demonstration purposes, take a peice of 1/2" plywood or sheet rock and lay one piece on top of the other offset ofcourse and imagine how you would make the seams become smooth, like a butt joint.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 4
From: Michigan
Just did this last summer. Got some pics in my gallery. Make sure you cut pretty high up as there was more rust on the inside panel than you could see on the outside. I replaced the inner fenders as well. I used metal adhesive in some areas but needed to weld the corners where the panel met the original at the lip. Also welded in the panels for the lower door jambs on the extended cab area.
Good luck. It's not a hard job until the finishing comes into play.
Good luck. It's not a hard job until the finishing comes into play.
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