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Transmission problem?

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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 10:40 PM
  #1  
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Transmission problem?

Hey guys. I am new to this board. I just bought a 1992 F-250 5 spd mazda tranny, w/ the 4.9 inline-6, 2wd. I am having problems with the truck going into gear, mostly 1st and reverse when sitting still. When the truck is not running the gears are smooth and easy to shift from one to the other when you press the clutch in, but when you start the truck, it is very hard to get into 1st or reverse, you have to really force it in.

I was just wondering if anyone else has ever encountered this, and where I should start to attempt to fix this, is this the tranny or the clutch? I seem to think that it is clutch related. Let me know what you think and if I am wrong or not.

Thanks.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 10:44 PM
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1994 F250: 351, C6's Avatar
1994 F250: 351, C6
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From what I have seen many of these transmissions do this. Usually they go into gear easier if you pull it into second first and then try to put it into first.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 10:46 PM
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I am not sure since I have an auto but I have run many manuals in my time. It sounds like your syncro's are going out. You may want to change the fluid (grease) and see if that helps. I am sure others with more experience will chime in.

By the way, welcome to the site. You will find some great people here that will bend over backwards to help.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 01:12 PM
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I had the same problem initially and mine has deteriorated. I don't think it's due to the transmission though; (for my truck - maybe yours too) I can't shift gears with the engine on, but when it's off, it shifts fine. This tells me that the clutch is still engaged (I think). I changed my master cylinder this fall; looks like it's time to re-bleed just to make sure, and in the near future I may be changing the slave cylinder and clutch! Yay!
 
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 10:44 PM
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Animalistic
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From: Hillsboro, OR
Originally Posted by 1994 F250: 351, C6
From what I have seen many of these transmissions do this. Usually they go into gear easier if you pull it into second first and then try to put it into first.
If this is the case, then your syncro's are getting tired. The first and reverse use the same. Second and third are not used (or abused) as much.

If this is not the case, then yes, you need to make sure your clutch is letting go properly. An easy test is to put the rear axle on jackstands and go through the gears. The wheels should just barely spin in gear with the clutch pedal to the floor and you should be able to hold the tire to stop them.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 10:58 PM
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Smile

Originally Posted by Animalistic
If this is not the case, then yes, you need to make sure your clutch is letting go properly. An easy test is to put the rear axle on jackstands and go through the gears. The wheels should just barely spin in gear with the clutch pedal to the floor and you should be able to hold the tire to stop them.
Thanks to the post on the other thread I put a question up, man. I checked today for play and it wasn't as bad as I had thought; the bushing is in good shape and the pedal only moves about 1/2" when I push it down before making the m.cyl shaft move.
I think I just need to re-bleed and maybe do this test you're mentioning in this quote; I really don't want to take my transmission out - I'd rather be working on my mustang's motor this spring!
 

Last edited by mayo302; Feb 24, 2008 at 10:59 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 12:02 AM
  #7  
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Animalistic
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From: Hillsboro, OR
Originally Posted by mayo302
Thanks to the post on the other thread I put a question up, man. I checked today for play and it wasn't as bad as I had thought; the bushing is in good shape and the pedal only moves about 1/2" when I push it down before making the m.cyl shaft move.
I think I just need to re-bleed and maybe do this test you're mentioning in this quote; I really don't want to take my transmission out - I'd rather be working on my mustang's motor this spring!
I can honestly say that I have never worked on a Ford clutch as I have been a MOPAR man most of my life (and I drive an auto now) but if they subscribe to the same laws of physics as the rest of us do, then the information below is still relevant.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

<o></o>

When you press the clutch pedal, the master cylinder forces fluid to the slave cylinder which forces a piston to the shift fork. This presses the throw out bearing against the pressure plate fingers which lets pressure off of the clutch disk. This disconnects the engine from the transmission. The pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel whereas the clutch disk is attached to the transmission by the spline.<o></o>

<o></o>

If the clutch is not making an ungodly amount of noise when pressed or left alone, you can rule out the bearing and pressure plate. If the clutch does not slip when giving it gas, you can rule out the clutch disk and pressure plate.<o></o>

<o></o>

This limits it to the linkage. Since this is hydraulic, there are only two places left: The pedal to master cylinder and the slave to the shift fork.<o></o>

<o></o>

From what you say on the pedal and master, I would guess that they are good. If bleeding does not help, then look at your slave mount (is it solid or on an arm?) or shift fork (is it bent?) (I have seen this many times). It sounds like you are not getting enough piston travel out of the slave cylinder. Any of the above can cause this.<o></o>

<o></o>

There is an off chance that your pressure plate is weak and the fingers are not allowing the plate to release properly. You can check this by removing the inspection cover and watching the movement while someone presses the pedal. This assumes that all of the above checks out to be good. Hope this helps.<o></o>
 
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 06:36 PM
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Thanks a bunch for the help! It's supposed to be nice this weekend; I'll have my wife come out and help me re-bleed and inspect things according to your list!
Matt
 
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