Brakes locking down.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 295
Likes: 2
From: Ringgold GA.
Brakes locking down.
Has anyone run into this? When I have to make a "panic stop" my front brakes seem to stay stuck in the "trying to stop the truck" position for a little while. They will usually release after driveing for a bit but this requires an ample use of throttle. It also gives off a hot brake smell under normal driveing conditions. This all came on a few weeks ago and I have since changed the calipers and cleaned/greased the retainer pins that hold the caliper in place. I am thinking it could be the proportioning block or the master cylender. Also keep in mind that the truck had sat for about four years until I started driveing it, around July. Everything has seemed to be working fine until this lock down started. Any suggestions or similar experiences are welcome as this truck has become my daily driver due to gas prices and this brake issue is cutting down on my MPG's. Thanks. -Eveready77 
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta GA
When you changed the calipers did you change the hoses?
When changing sticking calipers you should change the hoses too unless fairly new. When you change the hose it is not a bad idea to flush the system with the hose disconnected from the caliper.
On a BII you will find the new hose probably will not fit with the clip because it is designed for a Ranger (if you match it up you will see the recess is a bit short). The easiest way to do the pass. side is remove the fender and grind a bit off the mount on the engine side to fit the clip or a replacement C/snap-ring clip (at least this is what I do).
Make sure your pad has not shifted.
When changing sticking calipers you should change the hoses too unless fairly new. When you change the hose it is not a bad idea to flush the system with the hose disconnected from the caliper.
On a BII you will find the new hose probably will not fit with the clip because it is designed for a Ranger (if you match it up you will see the recess is a bit short). The easiest way to do the pass. side is remove the fender and grind a bit off the mount on the engine side to fit the clip or a replacement C/snap-ring clip (at least this is what I do).
Make sure your pad has not shifted.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta GA
Yes, especially if you just replaced the pistons. Drive it until the brakes stick, pull in your garage right away, jackstand it, remove the wheel, have someone step on the brake while the truck is running (just a club or stick with the engine off if by yourself). With safety glasses on, watch the caliper to see if it moves and then releases.
Your hose should move slightly, not jerk back and forth and should not swell.
One other possible problem is that the wheel bearings are too tight and overheating everything on the spindle. Excessive heat will destroy the plastic piston and cause it to seize, even a new one. Which is why some go for the early 80s cast iron piston instead.
Check how freely the wheel spins while hot (wear gloves and knock the caliper out quickly) and stone cold.
Another is you have water in the line/fluid. But, since you just did the calipers, I doubt it.
Your hose should move slightly, not jerk back and forth and should not swell.
One other possible problem is that the wheel bearings are too tight and overheating everything on the spindle. Excessive heat will destroy the plastic piston and cause it to seize, even a new one. Which is why some go for the early 80s cast iron piston instead.
Check how freely the wheel spins while hot (wear gloves and knock the caliper out quickly) and stone cold.
Another is you have water in the line/fluid. But, since you just did the calipers, I doubt it.
New User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 23
Likes: 1
Same problem here
I just started havin the same problem with my Bronco II. If I 'jam' the brake on they 'lock'.
I found out that if I just 'tap' them with a little pressure they will unlock. The Bronco II doesn't pull or jerk to either side. I have had 'hose' problems on other vehicles and it isn't that. They cause the vehicle to pull to the opposite side of the bad hose. Its not a caliper problem either.
I'm leaning toward the master cylinder. It's about the only thing that would cause such an even lockup.
I found out that if I just 'tap' them with a little pressure they will unlock. The Bronco II doesn't pull or jerk to either side. I have had 'hose' problems on other vehicles and it isn't that. They cause the vehicle to pull to the opposite side of the bad hose. Its not a caliper problem either.
I'm leaning toward the master cylinder. It's about the only thing that would cause such an even lockup.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 295
Likes: 2
From: Ringgold GA.
I did replace the wheel bearings about a week after new years. I don't think they were too tight but as mentioned earlier, if they are to tight and heat up... Might check that, and hose movement too. The hoses looked good, the fluid fair, not too bad. The only problem with checking them when locked is that they seem to like doing it while I'm in traffic on my way to work. I could try to make them do it in the drive way I guess.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 491
Likes: 0
From: Newbury NH
i have a 64 fairlane that i installed a 460 and a set of custom headers. one of the tubes was kinda close to a brake line. drive for 10/15min and the brake were dragging,even the brake lights would come on WTF. crack a brake line,release the pressure,all is good for another 10min. replaced the master cyl, all is good