EMERGENCY! I pulled a vacuum line while changing cap and cannot find??
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: The OC
So you followed the vacuum line from the modulator on the passenger side of the trans, up the side of the trans between the bell housing and the body to the rear of the engine and it is attached to a vacuum tree? The hose won't be hanging because it has attaching points. When I disconnected mine to check for a failed mod valve, it is easy to temporarily lose because it is dark in there.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2005
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Originally Posted by lv2race
OK, I don't have my Aero book anymore so I can't use it for reference. Do you hear hissing when it is running? I don't remember anything in that area other then the tree I mentioned.
But I've only let it run for about 3 or 4 minutes at a time, and like I said above the engine is very, very cold.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2005
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Originally Posted by lv2race
So you followed the vacuum line from the modulator on the passenger side of the trans, up the side of the trans between the bell housing and the body to the rear of the engine and it is attached to a vacuum tree? The hose won't be hanging because it has attaching points. When I disconnected mine to check for a failed mod valve, it is easy to temporarily lose because it is dark in there.
I have to admit that I was looking for every reason not to have to slide under the van, (winter road crud, combined with ice, snow and the usual array of petroleum products, had me thinking "I'm sure I can find this from the top" )
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Junior User
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Originally Posted by lv2race
I hear you on the "winter road conditions", and not to change the subject, but it was sunny and about 70 deg today in Anaheim.............Sorry, I just had to throw that in! 
And just so you appreciate it more, after more than 5' feet of snow this winter, yesterday we had 32° rain, which helped melt some of it (only a little tho) and I spent most of the day trying to keep it out of the garage, but I failed since I now have about a 1/2" of ice on the floor, but don't worry it's frozen really solid since today we have -18° wind chills
I love Northern Illinois ............. who really likes 70° and sunny anyway 
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,226
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From: The OC
Ouch! NWS is calling for rain here starting Wednesday thru Sunday. I know. big deal, I hear ya. But my problem is I go to California Speedway on the infield in my RV and this is Nascar weekend. If it rains, they don't race and I have $$$$ invested already, so I gotta go. Maybe they will race on Monday, and yes, I will still be there!
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2005
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Ok, I am beginning to feel like a complete idiot, because I can't find an unhooked hose.
Here is what happens;
1) with the orifice plugged, I start the engine
2) within about 10 seconds I get 3 pulses of the check engine light
3) after running fine for about 1 minute it starts to idle down, and I begin to get a series of flashing check engine lights, I was unable count all of the long and short flashes, but it is definitely varying values
4) for the most part then engines seems to be running ok during this time.
What am I missing??????
5) there are 4 hoses hooked to this 5 port tree
Here is what happens;
1) with the orifice plugged, I start the engine
2) within about 10 seconds I get 3 pulses of the check engine light
3) after running fine for about 1 minute it starts to idle down, and I begin to get a series of flashing check engine lights, I was unable count all of the long and short flashes, but it is definitely varying values
4) for the most part then engines seems to be running ok during this time.
What am I missing??????
5) there are 4 hoses hooked to this 5 port tree
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
on the inside hood is a full vacuum line schematic for your particular year/model/engine Aero.
sounds like it could be vac. line to fuel vapors evac. system
another goes to speed cruise control
another to heater/ac controls
the large one goes to vac. brake booster
sounds like it could be vac. line to fuel vapors evac. system
another goes to speed cruise control
another to heater/ac controls
the large one goes to vac. brake booster
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2005
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Here is what I am "fairly" sure is hooked up.
The lines running to the Carbon Cannister, the PCV valve,(if I remember correctly this is tee'd into the main brake booster line) The Brake booster, the heater/ac controls, one short section goes to a hard pipe and disappears down towards the passenger side of the tranny, but I can't see what it's hook to.
which leaves me with one open. Which I cannot find.
I've looked at the schematic under the hood ('93 Aerostar 3.0) but I can't really make complete sense of it.
The lines running to the Carbon Cannister, the PCV valve,(if I remember correctly this is tee'd into the main brake booster line) The Brake booster, the heater/ac controls, one short section goes to a hard pipe and disappears down towards the passenger side of the tranny, but I can't see what it's hook to.
which leaves me with one open. Which I cannot find.
I've looked at the schematic under the hood ('93 Aerostar 3.0) but I can't really make complete sense of it.
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,901
Likes: 2
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
If you have disconnected the vacuum modulator, the van will have late hard shifts, because the transmission will think that you are driving WOT. The vacuum is used to pull the diaphragm and the shifts occur sooner and are smoother when the modulator is working properly. BTW, that line should have been pretty firm on the fitting. If it came off easily, I would suspect that the modulator may be leaking and the fluid could have softened the hose.
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Junior User
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Originally Posted by Bear River
If you have disconnected the vacuum modulator,..............................BTW, that line should have been pretty firm on the fitting. If it came off easily, I would suspect that the modulator may be leaking and the fluid could have softened the hose.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2005
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Seems like you mentioned everything except the Canister purge valve, and the fuel pressure regulator, which both have vacuum lines. I'd check the Fuel pressure reg. Should be obvious, right there on top, but you never know
M
M
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2005
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Originally Posted by Mormakil
Seems like you mentioned everything except the Canister purge valve, and the fuel pressure regulator, which both have vacuum lines. I'd check the Fuel pressure reg. Should be obvious, right there on top, but you never know
M
M
Cannister purge valve, I believe is under the air filter housing and that is hooked up
I'm thinking now that maybe I pulled a cap, and I should re-cap, pull the negative cable, let things reset and see what happens.
What do you think???
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Junior User
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Okay, after going through things for the kazillionth time, I became and more convinced that everything was hooked up and that somehow I had lost a vacuum cap. So I recapped, disconnected the negative cable (not sure why, it just seemed like the thing to do) ran the Key on engine off test KOEO and finally ended up with an all clear code. Started it, drove it to fully warm, opened it up a little and everything seems fine.
So I'll see what the next couple of days bring.
Thanks for the help
Dan (who is now a whole lot more familiar with vacuum system of a '93 Aerostar)
So I'll see what the next couple of days bring.
Thanks for the help
Dan (who is now a whole lot more familiar with vacuum system of a '93 Aerostar)
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
all the 4L and 3L Ford engines i've looked at had at least one plug on the vac. distribution tree.
in fact these are an often overlooked point of vacuum leak, high heat damage area, rubber plug breaks down and is almost impossible to see especially on an Aerostar.
always a good idea to pull neg. batt lead after period of poor running or change of fuel/air/engine performance component. faster relearn of new correct fuel/air mix parameters and clears old codes which can confuse troubleshooting.
even good idea on changeover from winter>summer>winter fuel mixes with changes in ethanol and volatiles. torque/hp drops substantial with E10 fuels and low volatility winter fuel blends.
in Wa and Ore, we are now 100% E10 with high levels of benzene, worst gas I've ever seen. power loss and poor starting.
i dump the PCM KAM before towing heavy on a trip also so that the system relearns fuel loads required for heavy towing.
in fact these are an often overlooked point of vacuum leak, high heat damage area, rubber plug breaks down and is almost impossible to see especially on an Aerostar.
always a good idea to pull neg. batt lead after period of poor running or change of fuel/air/engine performance component. faster relearn of new correct fuel/air mix parameters and clears old codes which can confuse troubleshooting.
even good idea on changeover from winter>summer>winter fuel mixes with changes in ethanol and volatiles. torque/hp drops substantial with E10 fuels and low volatility winter fuel blends.
in Wa and Ore, we are now 100% E10 with high levels of benzene, worst gas I've ever seen. power loss and poor starting.
i dump the PCM KAM before towing heavy on a trip also so that the system relearns fuel loads required for heavy towing.