Cracked manifolds...thinking about headers
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Senior User
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From: Montreal, Canada
Cracked manifolds...thinking about headers
Both my exhaust manifolds are cracked (which I understand to be a relatively common occurance) I'm not necessarily looking for increased power, I just want to fix it and not have the problem recur a couple of years down the road.
Question is, will shorty headers hold up better in the long run than stock replacement manifolds? I'm assuming the thicker the flange the better? And also what difference does the primary tube diameter (1 1/2" vs. 1 5/8") make?
Thanks
Itch
Question is, will shorty headers hold up better in the long run than stock replacement manifolds? I'm assuming the thicker the flange the better? And also what difference does the primary tube diameter (1 1/2" vs. 1 5/8") make?
Thanks
Itch
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Pa
A set of shorty steel or stainless headers are not prone to crack like cast iron maifolds. Even if a header does crack or break it can easily be welded. Cast Iron can be a pain to weld and once welded are more prone to crack again.
You can get a set of shorty headers to bolt up in place of the stock manifolds with no modifications.
You should get slightly more low end torque with a smaller primary tube diameter. With a stock engine I see no need to go with the larger 1 5/8" dia. As far as flanges go thicker is better. A 3/8" thick flange is a good thickness.
I have a set of cheapy Dynomax headers on my 74' F-100 for 8 years now and they are still in good shape besides a little rust.
You can get a set of shorty headers to bolt up in place of the stock manifolds with no modifications.
You should get slightly more low end torque with a smaller primary tube diameter. With a stock engine I see no need to go with the larger 1 5/8" dia. As far as flanges go thicker is better. A 3/8" thick flange is a good thickness.
I have a set of cheapy Dynomax headers on my 74' F-100 for 8 years now and they are still in good shape besides a little rust.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Montreal, Canada
Originally Posted by dkf
A set of shorty steel or stainless headers are not prone to crack like cast iron maifolds. Even if a header does crack or break it can easily be welded. Cast Iron can be a pain to weld and once welded are more prone to crack again.
You can get a set of shorty headers to bolt up in place of the stock manifolds with no modifications.
You should get slightly more low end torque with a smaller primary tube diameter. With a stock engine I see no need to go with the larger 1 5/8" dia. As far as flanges go thicker is better. A 3/8" thick flange is a good thickness.
I have a set of cheapy Dynomax headers on my 74' F-100 for 8 years now and they are still in good shape besides a little rust.
You can get a set of shorty headers to bolt up in place of the stock manifolds with no modifications.
You should get slightly more low end torque with a smaller primary tube diameter. With a stock engine I see no need to go with the larger 1 5/8" dia. As far as flanges go thicker is better. A 3/8" thick flange is a good thickness.
I have a set of cheapy Dynomax headers on my 74' F-100 for 8 years now and they are still in good shape besides a little rust.
Thank you very much
Itch
