7.3 Major Work
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From: Tillamook, Or.
7.3 Major Work
I've beenn chasing problems with the 7.3 in my '88 for some time now, and the news just keeps getting more bleak. The story begins with finding out that the PO used stop leak in the cooling system, then when I pulled the oil cooler to clean and re-seal it I found all of the water passages blocked. Yesterday I found what looks to be a crack in one of the heads. Gosh what a great weekend 
It looks like I'm headed for a replacement 7.3, so I would appreciate some info.
What does the engine weigh, with the heads on it? I'm gonna have to pull it and support it and I'm sure it weighs more than the gassers that I've done in the past.
Any suggestions, or web links about how the bell housing and tranny work goes would be appreciated. Is it easier to just pull both and deal with them out of the truck?
Does anybody have a good source in Western Oregon for either re-manufactured engines or a good rebuild shop?
Something tells me this is going to take a lot of beer to get through.
Ron
It looks like I'm headed for a replacement 7.3, so I would appreciate some info.
What does the engine weigh, with the heads on it? I'm gonna have to pull it and support it and I'm sure it weighs more than the gassers that I've done in the past.
Any suggestions, or web links about how the bell housing and tranny work goes would be appreciated. Is it easier to just pull both and deal with them out of the truck?
Does anybody have a good source in Western Oregon for either re-manufactured engines or a good rebuild shop?
Something tells me this is going to take a lot of beer to get through.
Ron
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
The engine will be close to 1200 pounds.
I don't like lifting the engine out the top unless you have a hoist attached to something solid.
Lots of twisting and turning to get the engine out of the engine bay.
Removing the transmission would just be extra work and extra weight.
I don't like lifting the engine out the top unless you have a hoist attached to something solid.
Lots of twisting and turning to get the engine out of the engine bay.
Removing the transmission would just be extra work and extra weight.
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From: Tillamook, Or.
1200 lbs.
Thanks Dave
So don't drop it your foot, right?
Maybe I'd be better off pulling the heads first, do you know how much they weigh? Any tips on pulling the heads, breaking them free from 160K miles of use?
Out the top with a hoist is what I have always done in the past, but at 1200 lbs I'm gonna have a much bigger load to deal with. Then I'll have to upgrade my engine stand as well.
Any suggestions on the bell housing and transmission? It looks pretty tight for space, lots of opportunity to split knuckles.
Does the tourque converter unbolt from the flywheel like a gasser? I have scanned my manuals and don't seem to have any graphics that are specific to the 7.3. If it's a conventional flywheel connection I've seen plenty of them.
Thanks for the help.
Ron
So don't drop it your foot, right?
Maybe I'd be better off pulling the heads first, do you know how much they weigh? Any tips on pulling the heads, breaking them free from 160K miles of use?
Out the top with a hoist is what I have always done in the past, but at 1200 lbs I'm gonna have a much bigger load to deal with. Then I'll have to upgrade my engine stand as well.
Any suggestions on the bell housing and transmission? It looks pretty tight for space, lots of opportunity to split knuckles.
Does the tourque converter unbolt from the flywheel like a gasser? I have scanned my manuals and don't seem to have any graphics that are specific to the 7.3. If it's a conventional flywheel connection I've seen plenty of them.
Thanks for the help.
Ron
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Joined: Aug 2004
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Ron where do you live in Oregon? I work for Mt. Hood diesel in sandy Oregon. I install only Jasper re-maned engines thats all my boss will warranty other then Cummins Recons. But they are not cheep (around 5000.00$$ for just the motor). There is a place in Mollala called Grumpys performance center that claims they are oregons largest diesel rebuilder sells for about 2500.00$$ but you do get what you pay for.
Why not just repair what you have unless you have a bad block. I do have a spare block but it needs a #8 sleeve not due to liner pitting just a large score in it nothing that can be honed out.
Starr
Why not just repair what you have unless you have a bad block. I do have a spare block but it needs a #8 sleeve not due to liner pitting just a large score in it nothing that can be honed out.
Starr
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Heads are in the 75 pound neighborhood, but under the hood in the engine compartment they will feel like they weigh 150 pounds each.
Drivers side head will come off with out to much trouble.
Passenger side, with the heater/AC box in the way you can't get a couple of the head bolts out of the head.
Tranny to engine adapter, 6 bolts.
Auto tranny the torque converter does bolt to the flywheel, but I am not educated in removing them.
Standard rotate the flywheel and remove the nuts I think I read before though.
In my opinion, if you are using a chain hoist, out the top is fine, you have to turn the engine almost 45 degrees to the side to clear the firewall and radiator shell.
If you are using an engine hoist, radiator shell off the truck so you don't have to raise the engine oil pan 5 feet in the air to clear the radiator shell is much safer.
Drivers side head will come off with out to much trouble.
Passenger side, with the heater/AC box in the way you can't get a couple of the head bolts out of the head.
Tranny to engine adapter, 6 bolts.
Auto tranny the torque converter does bolt to the flywheel, but I am not educated in removing them.
Standard rotate the flywheel and remove the nuts I think I read before though.
In my opinion, if you are using a chain hoist, out the top is fine, you have to turn the engine almost 45 degrees to the side to clear the firewall and radiator shell.
If you are using an engine hoist, radiator shell off the truck so you don't have to raise the engine oil pan 5 feet in the air to clear the radiator shell is much safer.
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From: Tillamook, Or.
Starr
Originally Posted by the grimlin
Ron where do you live in Oregon? I work for Mt. Hood diesel in sandy Oregon. I install only Jasper re-maned engines thats all my boss will warranty other then Cummins Recons. But they are not cheep (around 5000.00$$ for just the motor). There is a place in Mollala called Grumpys performance center that claims they are oregons largest diesel rebuilder sells for about 2500.00$$ but you do get what you pay for.
Why not just repair what you have unless you have a bad block. I do have a spare block but it needs a #8 sleeve not due to liner pitting just a large score in it nothing that can be honed out.
Starr
Why not just repair what you have unless you have a bad block. I do have a spare block but it needs a #8 sleeve not due to liner pitting just a large score in it nothing that can be honed out.
Starr
The IH dealer in Salem can sell me a "Runner" factory motor for under $5K. That would come as a complete engine with new oil cooler, I.P. etc., right down to a new oil pan. It's a lot more money than I wanted to put into this truck but it takes all of the questions out of the re-start and I'm about to that point.
We'll see how the next week or so goes.
Thanks Starr
Ron
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From: Tillamook, Or.
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
Heads are in the 75 pound neighborhood, but under the hood in the engine compartment they will feel like they weigh 150 pounds each.
Drivers side head will come off with out to much trouble.
Passenger side, with the heater/AC box in the way you can't get a couple of the head bolts out of the head.
Tranny to engine adapter, 6 bolts.
Auto tranny the torque converter does bolt to the flywheel, but I am not educated in removing them.
Standard rotate the flywheel and remove the nuts I think I read before though.
In my opinion, if you are using a chain hoist, out the top is fine, you have to turn the engine almost 45 degrees to the side to clear the firewall and radiator shell.
If you are using an engine hoist, radiator shell off the truck so you don't have to raise the engine oil pan 5 feet in the air to clear the radiator shell is much safer.
Drivers side head will come off with out to much trouble.
Passenger side, with the heater/AC box in the way you can't get a couple of the head bolts out of the head.
Tranny to engine adapter, 6 bolts.
Auto tranny the torque converter does bolt to the flywheel, but I am not educated in removing them.
Standard rotate the flywheel and remove the nuts I think I read before though.
In my opinion, if you are using a chain hoist, out the top is fine, you have to turn the engine almost 45 degrees to the side to clear the firewall and radiator shell.
If you are using an engine hoist, radiator shell off the truck so you don't have to raise the engine oil pan 5 feet in the air to clear the radiator shell is much safer.
The IH dealer in Salem is telling me that their shipping weight for a "Runner" is just over 800 lbs and that would include a steel pallet. Any idea what might be the difference in your weight and theirs? 400 lbs is enough difference to make me think differently about how I would set up the hoist.
Thanks Dave.
Ron
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
When I pull one, everything except the oil filter is on it.
Turbo, exhaust manuifolds, vacuum pump, fan, power steering pump, alternator, oil and a couple gallons of coolant.
I am probably still under 1200 pounds, but I would rather tell you 200 pounds heavy that 200 pounds light.
It is a big chunk of iron, rig for 1500 pounds and be happy when it weighs less.
The engine stand I used had 2.5" square heavy wall tubing for the upright.
You should have seen that puppy bow when I lowered the engine weight onto it.
Made me so nervous I hooked a cherry picker up to the front of the engine till I got some weight off.
Also remember, when you are doing teardown and reassembly some of the bolts are close to 100 foot pounds of torque, so it has to be sturdy and steady.
Play safe, severed or mangled body parts are very possible if anything is iffy as far as capacity goes.
Turbo, exhaust manuifolds, vacuum pump, fan, power steering pump, alternator, oil and a couple gallons of coolant.
I am probably still under 1200 pounds, but I would rather tell you 200 pounds heavy that 200 pounds light.
It is a big chunk of iron, rig for 1500 pounds and be happy when it weighs less.
The engine stand I used had 2.5" square heavy wall tubing for the upright.
You should have seen that puppy bow when I lowered the engine weight onto it.
Made me so nervous I hooked a cherry picker up to the front of the engine till I got some weight off.
Also remember, when you are doing teardown and reassembly some of the bolts are close to 100 foot pounds of torque, so it has to be sturdy and steady.
Play safe, severed or mangled body parts are very possible if anything is iffy as far as capacity goes.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Tillamook, Or.
Yup
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
When I pull one, everything except the oil filter is on it.
Turbo, exhaust manuifolds, vacuum pump, fan, power steering pump, alternator, oil and a couple gallons of coolant.
I am probably still under 1200 pounds, but I would rather tell you 200 pounds heavy that 200 pounds light.
It is a big chunk of iron, rig for 1500 pounds and be happy when it weighs less.
The engine stand I used had 2.5" square heavy wall tubing for the upright.
You should have seen that puppy bow when I lowered the engine weight onto it.
Made me so nervous I hooked a cherry picker up to the front of the engine till I got some weight off.
Also remember, when you are doing teardown and reassembly some of the bolts are close to 100 foot pounds of torque, so it has to be sturdy and steady.
Play safe, severed or mangled body parts are very possible if anything is iffy as far as capacity goes.
Turbo, exhaust manuifolds, vacuum pump, fan, power steering pump, alternator, oil and a couple gallons of coolant.
I am probably still under 1200 pounds, but I would rather tell you 200 pounds heavy that 200 pounds light.
It is a big chunk of iron, rig for 1500 pounds and be happy when it weighs less.
The engine stand I used had 2.5" square heavy wall tubing for the upright.
You should have seen that puppy bow when I lowered the engine weight onto it.
Made me so nervous I hooked a cherry picker up to the front of the engine till I got some weight off.
Also remember, when you are doing teardown and reassembly some of the bolts are close to 100 foot pounds of torque, so it has to be sturdy and steady.
Play safe, severed or mangled body parts are very possible if anything is iffy as far as capacity goes.