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need brake help....

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Old Feb 16, 2008 | 08:19 PM
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78sharpshooter's Avatar
78sharpshooter
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need brake help....

1985 F250 6.9L 4x4 auto C6, supercab 129,000miles (I think) and brakes work okay but I cannot lock up the tires no matter how hard I push on the pedal. I replaced the master cylinder and bled the lines and it did not change much. I realized that if I pump the brakes rapidly and then try to stop I have almost no braking power. The rotors and pads look fine so I am thinking it is the brake assist (booster) whatever. I checked the vaccum and it is right on spec. Any advice?
 
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Old Feb 16, 2008 | 08:37 PM
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Is there any difference in pedal feel with the engine shut off?
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 01:42 AM
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it could be the brake booster. if there is a leak in the diafram the vacume leaks out,the brake booster might help some. but i did everything i could to my brakes on my old 1986 6.9. and the brakes were still not to hot. i think it was and is a weak link in the older trucks.the master cylinder is too small or something. some guys have upgrated to a one ton brake system, i think.maybe getting the parts from the junk yard for a reasonable price.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 02:02 AM
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I found a reman one for $73 so I might give it a try. I also noticed that when I am backing up the brakes don't hardly work.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 02:20 AM
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George D.
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Check the adjustment on your rear brakes. that might be why you're having trouble stoping in revers and may help with the other part.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 04:35 AM
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I realized that if I pump the brakes rapidly and then try to stop I have almost no braking power
3-4 pumps will decrease the vacuum in the system and you will have no braking. Check the vacuum system by doing the vacuum test. Also as stated the rear brake MUST be adjusted up to keep the total system operating correctly. To adjust the rears......... just back up and apply the brakes firmly. Drive forward and stop.....do that about 5-10 times and you should feel the difference in the pedal and braking effect.

For the 2 part vacuum test........visit:
http://photos.FTEs diesel forums.com/memb...8329&protype=1

Kinda gotta look for the 2 parts....... page is all screwed up due to change still.
 

Last edited by PLC7.3; Feb 17, 2008 at 04:41 AM.
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 12:03 PM
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George D.
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Originally Posted by PLC7.3
To adjust the rears......... just back up and apply the brakes firmly. Drive forward and stop.....do that about 5-10 times and you should feel the difference in the pedal and braking effect
That should get them adjusted but if not you may have to adjust them manualy. I've never done this on one of these trucks but there should be either a oval shape rubber plug in the back of the backing plate about half way up or an oval hole wher the plugused to be there will be a star wheel in there jack up the rear of the truck and spin the star wheel untuill there is a slight drag on the brakes but you still want it to turn easy by hand.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 12:46 PM
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RCrawler
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Originally Posted by PLC7.3
To adjust the rears......... just back up and apply the brakes firmly. Drive forward and stop.....do that about 5-10 times and you should feel the difference in the pedal and braking effect.
Unless the adjusters are frozen or worn out, then you have to do them by hand.

Jason
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 06:35 PM
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I will say after a night of plowing snow, I do have excellent brakes.
All the backing and stopping in 7 or 8 hours of plowing have the brakes tight.

If you want real brakes, and don't mind spending some money, the hydraboost system for a 1997 Super Duty will bolt up.
Locking up the brakes will be easy after that.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 02:03 AM
  #10  
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Thanks for the input. I will check out the rear system. The previous owner might not have adjust the proportioning linkage after putting the 2" blocks on.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 02:20 AM
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dieselutheran21
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In case you want hydro brakes, here's a link to a tech article detailing the conversion.

http://oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=8777

good luck
 
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