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Headstuds, what else?

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Old Feb 16, 2008 | 08:51 AM
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Question Headstuds, what else?

I am going to do headstuds soon before the factory bolts decide to stretch on me. I tried searching for a while, but came up empty-handed. What all is needed while tearing down the motor. O-rings, gaskets, etc. I want to get everything together first so my truck can be down as short as possible. Also, I am going to do the EGR cooler delete and weld the up-pipe closed, what else? Thanks

Kyle
 
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Old Feb 16, 2008 | 09:02 AM
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From what Bean had told me(i don't know if he omitted the little tiny stuff because maybe I look like I'm mechanically challanged(which I am)), but it would be studs and check the heads, if warped machine if possibe, if they have to take off more then .008 of the heads then you'll have to replace. Stock gasket setup(minus the bolts obviously) should be sufficient unless your planning to do an all out race motor. I would also suggest a fluidampner and an ITP Regulated Return system to do away with dead-heading on the injectors. If you go with modified injectors then you'll have to upgrade to a FASS fuel system reason why is that even with just the Stage 1s and with tuning that was equilivant to that of people running stock injectors(with the exception of the hybrid race, had to have one crazy file) after two months I had to replace the stock fuel pump. If you go with the ITP kit or any RR kit, get a gauge that you can mount in-cab so you can monitor if your losing pressure especially when your running the hotter tunes.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 08:15 AM
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I called Ford dealer and they quoted me for a headgasket kit for 109 bucks. Does this sound right. Does it have everything I need to replace when I am tearing down the motor? Thanks

Kyle
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 09:35 AM
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As far as putting the studs in it should you just have to toss the bolts and put the studs in their place. Don't forget to check the heads though and either machine them or replace them otherwise having the studs won't do much good and you'll have to get back into it again(trust me on that one).
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 12:44 PM
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I have a question, why don't you just replace one bolt with a stud at time? It seems that you're not having any problems with blown HG's.

We do it at refineries all the time when we're upgrading studs and nuts.

Matt
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 03:19 PM
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I agree, if you already haven't blown a headgasket, just replace one at a time. You may need a few o-rings for the HPO rail and a few other things, but i'd upgrade the fuel system while it's out, at least on the engine, and do the EGR delete like you already mentioned.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by pipewelder71
I have a question, why don't you just replace one bolt with a stud at time? It seems that you're not having any problems with blown HG's.

We do it at refineries all the time when we're upgrading studs and nuts.

Matt
From what I understand, that is the incorrect way to do it. When you take one bolt out, there is uneven pressure pulling the head down onto the block. I would rather do it the correct way and do it only once. I have the correct tools, knowledge, and shop to do it, so I dont mind spending the time.

Kyle
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 04:03 PM
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Are there instructions somewhere that I can find on how to do the job? That way I can get proper torque specs and know what other gaskets and o-rings or stuff needs to be replaced when I take it apart. Thanks

Kyle
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 6.0superduty
Are there instructions somewhere that I can find on how to do the job? That way I can get proper torque specs and know what other gaskets and o-rings or stuff needs to be replaced when I take it apart. Thanks

Kyle
Get ahold of either Matt or Bean and they'll be able to help you out on the specs. I know Matt has tons of manuals, but Bean might be easier to get ahold of. Bean's the one that did my heads, so I would have to call him and find out I don't know(the pitfall of not being mechanically knowledgable and inclined). I would stay away from doing it one at a time, your not saving enough to make it worth the extra time to do it and plus I don't think it's all that good to do it that way as it is, although it has been said that it's been done successfully, I just am leary of it, but that's me.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by tex25025
From what Bean had told me(i don't know if he omitted the little tiny stuff because maybe I look like I'm mechanically challanged(which I am)), but it would be studs and check the heads, if warped machine if possibe, if they have to take off more then .008 of the heads then you'll have to replace. Stock gasket setup(minus the bolts obviously) should be sufficient unless your planning to do an all out race motor. I would also suggest a fluidampner and an ITP Regulated Return system to do away with dead-heading on the injectors. If you go with modified injectors then you'll have to upgrade to a FASS fuel system reason why is that even with just the Stage 1s and with tuning that was equilivant to that of people running stock injectors(with the exception of the hybrid race, had to have one crazy file) after two months I had to replace the stock fuel pump. If you go with the ITP kit or any RR kit, get a gauge that you can mount in-cab so you can monitor if your losing pressure especially when your running the hotter tunes.
and a fair amount of cash
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxium4x4
and a fair amount of cash
That never hurts.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 12:19 PM
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well, I think I am going to hold off on the studs for now until funds arrive. I just put new tires on. (OUCH)

Kyle
 
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