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ive got a 64 f100 with the 292 and im having trouble getting the ignition out i acn see the guides but cant get it to move any any informanion will be appreciated
What part of the ignition are you trying to remove? If it's the ignition switch cylinder? Put the key in and turn CCW past ACC. Put a paper clip, or needle, through the small hole on the lower left of cylinder face and depress the pin inside. Cylinder releases and pops right out. Then unscrew chrome collar and switch falls back and out. If, no key? You've two options. File a ford key down to lowest pin set. Slip the key in and tap it with a light hammer while attempting to turn CCW. The cylinder just MIGHT release and turn past ACC. This is how some simple 5 pin cylinder locks get overrode. Which means your car gets swiped. Or, house broke into. The only other way is to drill out the pins with a 5/16 or 3/8 bit. Then lock will turn and release.
If, you mean some other part of ignition? Let us know.
okay ive got the ignition out and replaced the wires but the motor wont turn over ive got power at the constant an ignition and a start but it still wont turn over is there something that i could be overlooking i parked it about 3 years ago for the king pins and it still started also i have got a post sticking up the is not inside the housing is that a ground?
OK, maybe I can walk you thru it? I hope you have a test light? Your wires should be wired per the switch. If, I recall? The switch posts have abreviated initials on the bakelite. Otherwise? Trial and error time. As, I've no idea off the top of head. Nor will my Ford manuals show me. Basic instruction they print is to put wires back as found. Big help..... Anyway. The large yellow/black stripe wire should be the 12v main. Find your ignition wire under the dash. Sould be either pink. Or red with a white stripe. It is a resistor wire. So, I hope you didn't replace it? If, so? You'll need a ballast resistor in line with ignition coil later ( The coil WILL toast itself sooner than later). But, for now, OK. I don't know what color your starter wire is.
Put the switch on the ign. setting and apply the 12v main to the center post of switch. Use your test light and find the ign terminal on the switch.
Next, Hold the switch in the start postion and find that terminal with test light.
Now you're ready. Put test light on ignition coil BAT terminal and touch your ignition wire to the ign terminal on switch. Test light should come on. If, dimly? Good, you still have resistor wire. Next, put the test light on the starter relay's start terminal wire. Take remaining wires and touch them to switch 12V main. You'll find each wire's job that way. When test lead lights? You found the right wire. Connect your wires and maybe your now done?
Engine should now turn over. If, not? Well, just maybe corrosion has gotten to starter relay. Clean the terminals and wires. Try again. Works? Done. No work? Does relay even click when you hit the key? If so? Then you may have a bad relay. Verify by bypassing relay with a pair of needle noses across main bat terminal and main starter terminal. If, starter rolls over? Then you now know it's the relay. If not? OK, either not enough battery power. Or, battery cable to starter has come loose. Or, worse, starter has bit the big one.