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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

died again on freeway

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Old Feb 15, 2008 | 03:50 PM
  #1  
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olthunter
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died again on freeway

well, had a similar problem a few weeks ago, trucked started knocking and died, pulled off on the side of the road, cranked the engine about 10 times after fiddling around with the carb, gas was coming in, and the fuel filter was new so it wasn't clogged, and then finally ran out of battery juice but it never fired up. towed it home, recharged the battery overnight, started right up the next day, ran perfect. it was suggested here that it might have been an ignition module, ran it up to the parts store put in a new one, got on the freeway, and as i went to pass someone the engine bogged down, almost like it wanted to cut out, so i got back in the right lane just incase i had to pullover, ran fine at 60 mph for a mile more then cut out. when it first cut out, the engine was still running but i couldn't accelerate and then it cut out. when to crank it back up and got about 2 cranks before no more juice. so now i'm thinking alternator, well when i got back home, put on the power pack, and it cranked up but never fired up. so it could be alternator and something else. while i'm waiting for the battery to charge to check spark and get the voltsmeter to check the charge, etc., i was just wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to what my problem could be? ignition coil? i have a bunch of experience rebuilding engines and prefer to do everything myself i'm just not the best diagnoser of problems.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2008 | 04:49 PM
  #2  
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Boy, I understand your problem TOO WELL. I had a similar situation a few years ago. I replaced Fuel pump relay ign. switch, coil, modular, It drove me nuts. Finally one day a friend of mine told me to bring it to his place, he had a thought. Well he pulled the distributor cap and grabbed the rotor and we found a top bushing wore out. On a rebuilt distributor about a year old. The trigger every so often would hit the pick up and short out. Sometimes it would start up right away others it had to sit. So check the slop in the distributor. Mine is an 86 F250 4x4 460 carbed. You didn't mention what you have other than carbed. I need more info to give you ideas of what to check.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2008 | 06:52 PM
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From: savannah,ga
this can be the coil also
basically any electonic item can cause this problem
when it gets hot a weak circuit fails
when it cools the circuit closes and works again
yes this can drive you nuts until you locate the problem
best way I have done it is to let the engine run till hot
if needed block the rad. with cardboard to get hot enough to stop
then use a volt meter to test all you can in the driveway
 
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Old Feb 15, 2008 | 07:19 PM
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thanks for the input, its an 80 f-150 ranger with a 400. definitely will check the rotor and parts, i think mines a few years old. i guess i'll try to get it running and get the meter out and start checkin, hopefully i'll find something, i definitely wont be so quick to drive it any distance, i don't think AAA will want to tow me every other week
 
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Old Feb 16, 2008 | 09:55 AM
  #5  
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gotta luv that AAA card
I dont know now, but years ago when I had them
there were no restictions on useage
that was good considering the junkers I used to own
 
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Old Feb 16, 2008 | 01:01 PM
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The pickup coil in the distributor could also be the culprit. Should be between 200 and 750 ohms cold. Pop the cap, rotor and set your trouble light on the distributor for 30 minutes, recheck your ohms. Also check your resistance from each wire from the pickup coil to ground. Should read 0L
 
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 07:27 PM
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I have read both your posts.
Here comes a rock. 1. Look at your fuel line from the tank to carborator. You may find a inline fuel pump. (that someone installed) This will not work because the pick-up tube has a tiny hole to prevent an air block. When you install in line pump you suck air if fuel level is low. Lean mixture will give you a backfire. If you have a backfire the power valve in your Holly,destroyed. (overhaul)
2. Less likely, there is a fuel seprator/pressure regulator about 8" in front of the carb this is a ford thing. It will fail at times diverting to much fuel back to tank. (50.00)
I have replaced all that crap with Edelbrock. Now I can see the engine!
 
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 10:08 PM
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My Ranger did this "knock and die" found the ground wire fron the coil was corroded inside the jacket, (all powdery blue) Run a new coil to ground, never happened again.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 12:45 AM
  #9  
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From: La Grande OR
My 86 f-150 4x4 ,302 feul inj. has been crazy ,its been dying without warning but runs smooth and doesnt miss.i replaced feul filter,cap,rotor,spark thingy on side of dist,coil and it still chugs in 4th gear at lower speeds,at like 40 ish,and below.I noticed some grooves in my dist cap and some heavy grooving on the old one too.some of the ford people here are confused,and some say my distributor ,or the shaft ,or bearing is bad.It has other issues,but i need to stop the dying without warning stuff,im moving in a week and need my ford to be the dependable ford it usualy is......does it have a computer,or other electronic control device that would allow it to just cut off?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 12:39 PM
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topgo
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From: Georgia
I think I would check coil wiring, corrosion connections Etc. I have seen the wiring look good and be corroded on the inside. Put the coil in the oven 250 Deg. See if it opens up or shorts. Feel the rotor. If u can shake it. Go to salvage. Don't buy a new one from FORD.
Larry
 
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 01:55 PM
  #11  
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theinkedone
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From: La Grande OR
come payday its gettin new wires,plugs, and cost permitting,a different distributor,if i can get a used one in this lil valley.I found some "old school ford guys" here that are checking into it also.I know i wont take it to a garage,as they probably would tell me that famous "it doesnt do it when we drive it" line and yeah....we know where that goes.... ill check back after payday with updated results of what i plan to do...thanks alot guys for all the help...( i should have sought out a 300 6 cyl) my bad.....
 
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 02:32 PM
  #12  
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From: lexington N.C.
I believe coils getting hot then killing engine ,,,my did and i changed it fix it right up ,,,,just my thoughts in this big show...lol
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 12:02 PM
  #13  
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theinkedone
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From: La Grande OR
is it possible to get a new "bad" coil? ive gotten other new bad parts,didnt do squat,right out of the box.the old one tested fine ,as does my new one,after some time consuming checking,(my meter was packed already,as i am in process of movin',hopefuly with my truck)and searching for meter...the more this truck frustrates me,the more fun the molitov cocktail idea sounds.or maybe ill see how well it drives off the side of one of these beautiful mountains,it handles well off road,and off road at high speeds,maybe warp speed would do it some fun and good.LOL
 
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