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over-heating brake rotor

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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 05:25 PM
  #16  
highland61's Avatar
highland61
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Newport News, VA
I don't know how much a caliper costs, but you can buy a rebuild kit. Your pads wear to each rotor, swapping sides and they have to wear down to the rotor using friction of course.

Your springs shouldn't have that much effect.

You shouldn't need to be grinding, cutting or altering any surface. You have not identified the problem yet.

.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 07:48 PM
  #17  
Peter94's Avatar
Peter94
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From: St. Peter
Take it for a ride, and be hard on your brakes. When you get home, jack up the rear end, and put it in neutral. then spin your tires and see what is really going on. If your RR wont spin, then your caliper is probably frozen. To confirm this, say the RR wheel is locked up. Crack open the bleeder screw, if after opening the bleeder screw the tire spins freely, then your problem is not the caliper, and is more likely something like your MC keeping pressure on that caplier. If you crack your bleeder and the caliper stays locked, then replace the caliper.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 10:10 AM
  #18  
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walleyeman
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Upstate, NY
I put my money on bad calipers. The slide pins do little to retract or release the pressure on the rotor. The rubber boot that seals the piston in the caliper, actualy helps pull the piston back when pressure is relieved in the system. If it is not going back in ever so slightly when taking your foot off the brake, then that is your problem.

It may be that you had to move and manually press in the pistons to remove and or lube the pins, freeing things up slightly.??
 
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 10:08 AM
  #19  
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jpoeta628
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 31
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From: Erie,,harborcreek, pa
this happened to me also, it was on the left front wheel of my s d there are two pistons on the caliper, one of them was stuck, and the other was retracting freely,it caused alot of heat to the rotor, it pulled to the left when braking,and caused a wheel hop,i replaced the caliper, everything back to normal. hpoe this helps.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 10:50 AM
  #20  
jimmyb08SD's Avatar
jimmyb08SD
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,449
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From: Fort Pierce, Fl
The only thing I have not seen here is the posibility of a brake line or hose, I have seen a few bad brake hoses, which is the flexible hose running to the caliper, which either gets clogged or pinched and wont let the pressure release properly. I would definately look at this before changing a caliper or master cyl. Also look over the brake lining running to that side, seen one once that a rock or some road derbi hit and pinched the line causing the same effect! Good luck
 
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 12:03 PM
  #21  
68 351 bronc's Avatar
68 351 bronc
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 920
Likes: 2
From: Colville
You might as well do both sides since pads come in pairs.
Remove the caliper and then remove the pads.
Next use a rag and a pair of vise grips to gently clamp the hose to prevent fluid loss and disconnect hose from caliper.
Put the caliper on the bench and use compressed air blown through the hose hole to remove the pistons. 5 -10 psi should work. Don't blow piston across shop!
You can use a Scuff Pad (Brillo pad) to clean and polish the piston and the hole it goes in. Clean every thing with a can of brake cleaner and a clean rag.
Reassemble.
Moving brake parts such as the caliper pins and their sliding surfaces, should only be lubed with Anti Seize. Not Grease.
 
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