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I just sold the vehicle that my 05 F250SDCC Full-Bed replaced, so it might be time to put a fiberglass cap on her.
In doing some searches, it looks like folk here like the ARE Z-series, I'm partial to Century, but regardless of what brand I eventually end up with, some questions remain:
Do most people bolt the cap on or rely upon clamps?
If it's a bolt-on, how is that done? Merciless High-School dropout having a fun time with a big drill, gouging things up all to crap?
Center Stop Light: is there an electrical connector close at-hand that the installer merely plugs into, or will he have to go in and start cutting and soldering wires (or worse yet, those unreliable "clamp-on" connector dealies)?
What can I expect to pay
What "options" are really needed/useful and what things can I get away with NOT doing? (e.g. carpeting)?
Are they removeable for, hypothetically, taking a snowmobile up to the Northwoods without having to pull the trailer?
Thanks, all, for any advise that the collective is willing to share.
I have my cap clamped,four on each side
there is a wire at the end of the left frame rail the is capped and marked for the stoplight
easily removed with two people
Last edited by rbaker6336; Feb 11, 2008 at 05:59 PM.
Had a Jason Cyber(top of the line) cap painted to match my 08 short bed. The wire for the brake light must come from the harness under the bed but a great job was done. Had a quick release installed just in case I take the cap off. The one option that I went for was the tilt window. It makes cleaning the exterior rear truck/front cap window a breeze. I went for the c-clamps as well for mounting. Total for the cap, custom paint, tilt window, wiring and installation, $1540.
I have an ARE and I love it. Use 3 clamps down each side and it doesn't move. It's also very easy to take off. A few wrenches and two guys in five minutes off or on. Didn't spend the money on the Z-series though. But by the time I was done adding on to what I got it was well over 2k. Tilt window is a must, I carpeted the inside so if I ever decide to sleep in there I don't get the condensation drip, and the Yakima rack.
I have the ARE. I don't know what model since it came with the truck but its a nice cap. Its carpeted, had three sliding windows and the roof rack. [It also has a handle of some sort on the interior near the left rear that I have no idea what its supposed to do.]
My first complaint is that the rear liftgate latches are worn to the point that the gate rattles and allows rain in. The rain seems to be getting in along the left, right and lower edges.
My second complaint is that the roof rack on it keeps loosening so the bars that run from the left to the right get crooked and rattle. Not a big deal unless there's something strapped to them.
The truck is an '05 so I assume that the cap is that age. It has beautiful paint matched to the truck though and the rest of the features are nice.
Another question popped into my head (I've got a million of 'em!): it was mentioned that there's a capped wire on the left frame rail for the high center-mounted stoplight that is prolly required now. What about the interior light? Some cap mfg'rs talk about an interior light. Where do they get the power for that? Is it or can it be connected to the truck's interior light? Would that be desireable?
Sounds like clamping is the way to go, certainly less intrusive to the truck, paint, metal, etc. Do the factory plastic bed rail covers need to come off for this or are they sealed to the rails?
Another question popped into my head (I've got a million of 'em!): it was mentioned that there's a capped wire on the left frame rail for the high center-mounted stoplight that is prolly required now. What about the interior light? Some cap mfg'rs talk about an interior light. Where do they get the power for that? Is it or can it be connected to the truck's interior light? Would that be desireable?
Depending on the cap you choose, there may be two interior light options offered. The cheapest is just a battery operated light. A little more money gets you a 12V light. On my last cap they wired that up to the engine compartment to pick up the power. In either case the light will be directly above the rear lift door with an integral switch.
A nice option is to wire the interior light to your cab interior light switch. You want to be able to turn the shell light on with your cab overhead light. But you also want to be able to turn the shell light on without feeding juice back to your cab. That's done with a diode. Very simple to do and it's nice to be able to check your load while in the cab.
It's doubtful that a shell installer would do that for you, but maybe.
i have a cab high black fiberglass ARE cap that i am looking to get rid of that my truck's previous owner had on. i am in michigan so we are pretty close if you are interested.
Regarding the bed rail covers, my Jason Cyber actually covers them. The first cap I have ever had that extended down like this. Nice that I was able to keep the rail covers on and visually, it really makes the cap appear as it is a part of the truck. I believe most manufacturers are constructing a portion of their caps this way.