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I bought a new dash for my 89 f250 from a 1992. I got the HVAC and Guages with it all for $100 Dollars. Dash looks really good. Now for the question.
When I bought the dash I didnt even think about electric vs mechanical speedo.
How can I wire this speedo up to work in my 89? Do I need the ECM and wiring harness from a truck with electric speedo or can I not just hook the sensor up or what?
If you want to swap gauge clusters, it is easiest to stay with the same year. There is a list of what years will swap without problems, but I don't have the list. You could find it by searching, but I know the 92 to 87 swap is not on it. There will be other problems with this swap than just the speedometer. Your alternator will not work until you do some wiring, and other indicator lights will be a problem also. Unless you are really good at automotive electrics, and just love a chalenge, you should probably pass on this cluster swap. If the 92 cluster has a tach and is in very good condition, you may be able to sell it on Ebay, and purchase the correct year for your truck.
Good luck Frank
I agree with fmr9, plug and play is your best bet. You may get some stuff to work, and there may be gremlins which will more than likely be traced back to the gauge cluster. Try and find one that will be for your year truck, it will make things alot easier on you.
I bought a new dash for my 89 f250 from a 1992. I got the HVAC and Guages with it all for $100 Dollars. Dash looks really good. Now for the question.
When I bought the dash I didnt even think about electric vs mechanical speedo.
How can I wire this speedo up to work in my 89? Do I need the ECM and wiring harness from a truck with electric speedo or can I not just hook the sensor up or what?
The piggyback VSS sensor on the 89 puts out 8,000 pulses per mile.
The PSOM in the 92 needs a much higher number of pulses from the rear ABS/VSS sensor and then the PSOM converts the signal to 8,000 pulses per mile for the PCM.
If you have an ABS sensor on the rear end you are in luck but if not you will have to change out the rear end housing.
I did read somewhere that somebody did make something for the drive shaft to do this but I think he was putting a 9-inch rear end in a 92 or newer truck. The 9-inch did not have a place for the VSS sensor.
Damn not the answers I was looking for. My current cluster works except the fuel gauge is jacked up and the volt meter dont work. I am swapping dashes to later 92-96 dash and the cluster came with it. I just like the look of the laster gauges more then whats in my truck. My truck does have the ABS sensor in the rear end but its bad, LOL. I think I may just plug this thing up and try it and everything works except the speedo, Ill figure it out. Ill be doing the swap this weekend and Ill post some pics. I have been cleaning the new dash and getting it ready to be painted medium grey.
Thanks for the posts. Im gonna try some ****. Stand back, this could get nasty.
My truck does have the ABS sensor in the rear end but its bad, LOL. I think I may just plug this thing up and try it and everything works except the speedo, Ill figure it out.
If you have the RABS sensor and the RABS module under the dash and the VSS side is working then it should be no big problem to get the speedometer to work.
What I do not know is where the power comes from for the RABS/VSS sensor.
If it comes from the PSOM you just unhook the RABS module but if the power for the sensor comes from the RABS Module then you would have to get that working as well. It is my understanding that the RABS/VSS sensor is just a switch and does not cost much.
But if your RABS system is not working because of the Tone ring then that is another problem all together.
I think the RABS/VSS is what sends the signal to the speedometer. I just dont know the route that it takes. I have been searching online and cant really find anything. Im at work and the server wont let me look at much.
I just need the connector that connects to the rear of the speedometer then find a way to power the VSS/RABS and I should be good?
Don't forget to check the battery voltage at the battery. Should be about 12.5 with engine off, and just under 14 volts when it is running. If you do this swap, I think you will find the alternator does not turn on, and the voltage will be less than 12.5 with it running and eventually it will stop running cause the battery will be drained.
If you do a search, you will fine numerous examples of this problem, including people that have replaced perfectly good alternators and batteries trying to fix a problem they caused. Kind of like a self inflicted injury. LOL
Frank
Frank
Don't forget to check the battery voltage at the battery. Should be about 12.5 with engine off, and just under 14 volts when it is running. If you do this swap, I think you will find the alternator does not turn on, and the voltage will be less than 12.5 with it running and eventually it will stop running cause the battery will be drained.
If you do a search, you will fine numerous examples of this problem, including people that have replaced perfectly good alternators and batteries trying to fix a problem they caused. Kind of like a self inflicted injury. LOL
Frank
Frank
The reason for that is there is no power on the Lt. Green wire with a red stripe coming from the Ignition switch and going to the alternator by way of the cluster (charge light/burn-out resistor). This wire tells the alternator to charge or not to charge.
I just had the either the worst idea of the day or the best idea for this swap! Im at work and cant really tell if this is going to work but maby someone can chime in.
What about swapping the gauge faces and needles on to the older cluster!! Everything seems to be in the same position and the speedo and everything reads the same or am I jusy hoping?