looking into getting a nitrous system for my 2007 F150 with a 5.4L in it. i have been looking into the zex, nos and nitrous express kits. what kit do you think is best?? also what other things might i need with the kit?? i am getting a perge kit cause it also looks cool but what else should i think about getting. someone told me i will need to got to colder spark plugs, is this true?? i can only find ones that are two heat ranges cooler. any other suggestions??

so far i have a true dual exhaust system and not cats, i also have a predator tuner which i am going to get a custom tune wrote for the truck after i install the nitrous. along with the nitrous i am going to get a CAI, therottle body and a set of headers. i might do cams later.

 

You will need a A/F gauge for monitoring your A/F as well as shutting the nitrous off if lean conditions occur. A window switch is a must for a safe set-up. A window switch will allow you to only run nitrous when you are within certain rpm and throttle position. A automatically controlled bottle heater is a must for consistent operation and results. A purge valve isn't needed but nice to have, if you do track it, it is nice to have the hit right away, if there is any air in the lines. Yes, a colder spark plug is needed for a safe nitrous set up. A good tune is a MUST as well as good gas. A fuel pressure safety switch is cheap and good insurance to save you butt should you lose fuel pressure, but the wide-band would also pick this up.

Expect to spend at least $900 (not including tuner and tune) on a good safe nitrous set up. If all you have is a bottle and purge, you are playing with fire. A properly set up nitrous system is as safe as any other power adder. Too many idiots running the bare minimum ($250 kits) blowing crap up is what gives nitrous a bad name. You have to pay to play, there is not such thing as cheap horsepower.

 

the kits i am looking at are this kit:
http://www.rpmoutlet.com/04f150sniper3.htm
and this kit:
http://www.rpmoutlet.com/lightbbktba.htm

the zex kit looks to be the safer of the two and i believe it comes with the therottle control. let me know what you think

 

Still need a wideband, if you go with dynojet wideband controller it has a output built it so you can shut off the nitrous should it go lean. Real easy to use. I am using for my S/C application, very nice set up. Wish I would have ran it on my Cobra when I was spraying. Would have saved the need for a window switch. You can activate a selenoid (nitrous solenoid in your case) whenever your TPS signal is what you set it at, the A/F is where you set it at and rpm window. Completely taking the place of a window switch. They are around $450 new but for all they do for people like you wanting to run nitrous they are really cheap if you look at wideband kits and window switches.

 

http://www.zex.com/Catalog/ZEX101-05/PG5.pdf

in this it says it comes off my TPS will activate at WOT, they also have antoher one that is adjustable as an otion.

http://www.zex.com/Catalog/ZEX101-05/PG3.pdf
here is another overview of the kits.

 

I understand that, but how are you going to kill the nitrous should a lean condition occur? They use a micro switch to activate the nitrous on the throttle. The dynojet wideband will actually read the TPS voltage to activate it. You will have a lot less wiring and ease of set-up.

 

where can i get the dynojet wideband??

 

http://www.hardracing.com/Misc/WideBand.htm
$429

http://rwtd.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=88
$449

http://www.corvettegarage.com/produc...commander.html
$475

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DYNOJ...spagenameZWDVW
$399

A simple google search returned all these. I have personal experience with RWTD and would recommend them, but they appear to be the highest out there.

Going into a project like this, you are going to have to be able to do some things for yourself. Asking questions like you did makes me think you are not ready to jump into something like this that could very well ruin your truck. You should be reading as much as you can to learn the dos and don'ts.

 

i have never delt with nitrous before, i was thinking supercharger but they are so expensive. i have been reading all i can and asking questions to see what i might need. i have looked all overt the zex site and they say nothing about needing everything you pointed out and i have talked to several oether people that say i just need a fuel shut off and i am going to take the truck to diablosport to write a custom tune for it. the only bennifit i see to that thing you pointed out is the gauge. i can watch this on my predator tuner.

 

You can not watch air fuel on your predator! People will say a lot of things, and you will hear what you want to. I am telling you how to safely run nitrous. I have seen guys, and hooked up kits for people, that spent $250 and just wanted nitrous. I did however tell them that this way is not the safest and IMO proper way to do it. You do whatever you want, I am telling you how to run nitrous as safe as possible. You either listen or you don't, no hair off my butt either way.

A fuel pressure safety switch will save you if you lose fuel pressure, yes, but what happens when you drop an injector and you go lean????? No help from the fuel pressure safety switch there....why do they recommend them and everyone do it?????????? Becuase they are cheap!

You will NOT be watching your Predator all the time, and there is no way you will be able to react as fast as a a/f safety device or window switch.

With A/F safety incorporated into your system it will save you should anything fail. You lose fuel pressure, go lean, it disables nitrous! You drop injector, go lean, it disables nitrous.

A window switch will allow you not to spray at to low of RPMs if desired but more importantly will disable the nitrous before you hit redline, you DO NOT want to hit the rev limiter while spraying!

When I ran mine, on my modded 2003 Cobra, I ran the following:

A/F guage tied into my window switch (I did not need the $20 fuel pressure safety switch because of this)
I ran a regulated bottle heater (it regulated it self so I didn't over heat it)
A window switch (to enable and disable nitrous depending on inputs)
What inputs needed to be met for the car to spray?
-A/F had to be richer than 11.8:1 (boosted and sprayed)
-TPS must be at WOT
-above 3000 rpms
-below 6000 rpms
-1st gear locked out (traction was a huge issue, I didn't need spray in 1st)

All of these things were in series if you will, if anyone was not met, the entire system was disables. I also sprayed pre TB so if the solenoid ever stuck open, I would not fill my intake with nitrous and blow it to shreds when trying to start it.

I also ran a nitrous filter (to keep particulates from getting stuck in the solenoid) and a purge (to get the nitrous to the main solenoid for track days).

I spent over $900 on all of this and I went through dynotunenitrous which was (and still may be) the most in-expensive place to buy these things.

What would I do different?
I would run the dynojet wideband I am running now as it would have saved my $300 total (I would not have needed to buy a wideband and a window switch seperately).

Again, you do what you want. Thing is, you are not playing with a harmless power adder (if there is such a thing). You can do it cheap and risk it, but be ready to pay the ultimate price should a component fail, get a bad batch of gas, or your tune is off.

Good luck!

 

it sounds like a supercharger is is alot safer and worry free. i would still like to do the nitrous because of the cost compared to the supercharger even with the wideband added to the nitrous kit.

 

Nice thing about the supercharger is the there is no bottle to run empty, the power will always be there and you have one tune (most of the time). The only way I could run nitrous as much as I did was I got my own filling station and filled my bottles myself (as well as made some money on the side). Nitrous gets expensive and some places around here want $5/lb, sucks when a bottle is gone in 2 pulls. And believe me, you will want to be hitting it ALL THE TIME. You will quickly get to the cost of a blower set up with filling your bottle up. If you are like I was it was nothing to go through 2 bottle in a weekend, that is $50/weekend, $200/month, or $2400/year, add that to your $1000 cost of what the kit cost you, the S/C price doesn't look so bad.

Obviously you won't be spraying every weekend, but you get the picture. Nitrous can be fun and safe, but it doesn't come cheap.

 

you do have one point there about having to buy bthe nitrous all the time. and that it can get expensive. the supercharger i want is going to cost me about $5,200. i was looking at the nitrous kit and it was $529. man this sucks.

 

What S/C kit you looking at, if it is the whipple I know a guy that can get them cheaper than that.

 

its a procharger kit, how much is the whipple??