My Dad just gave me my grandpa's 1971 F-100. It hasn't been driven since 1990, and has been sitting in the same spot for at least 13 years. My brother and I have decided to do our best to get it running again, and at least make it presentable enough to put on the road. My question is, where should I start on determining what all needs to be replaced? What is the likelihood that the motor is any good? Will the brake drums be locked up? It has a 360 in it, if the motor is bad, what should I replace it with? Does the 360 run off of the factory C6 transmission, or C4?

Sorry for all of the questions. Just looking for the best way to spend my time on getting started with what looks to be a lengthy project, but it was Grandpa's, so we're going to spend some time and money on it. Any help will help.

Thanks!

 

If it were me, I'd start by draining the gas tank and put some fresh gas in it, 2nd, recharge the battery and spray a little gum cutter in the carb, just to see if it'll crank over and run, after that then you check the brakes, all the fluids and hope it'll move.

 

Hi, welcome to the site!

Old Fords just want to run. If there was nothing wrong mechanically before it was parked, you have a pretty good chance of getting it going.

The above is some good advice, but if it's been sitting for 13 years the battery is probably junk, I'd be surprised if it would even take a charge. Put a fresh battery in it and turn on the key and see if the indicator lights come on.

Now here's how I check for spark: pull the distributor cap and make sure the points are off the cam lobe and closed. Pull the coil wire from the cap and secure it so that it's about 1/4 inch from a good ground, then with the key on, open and close the points with your thumbnail and see if you get a spark jumping from the coil wire to ground. Most likely you'll need to clean the points before you get spark.

Here's what I went through with my '68:
When I got it, it had been sitting in one spot for ten years in a damp climate. It has two gas tanks, fortunately the main tank was empty but the rear tank had some nasty old gas in it. I put fresh gas in the main tank, checked oil and fluids and turned the engine by hand with the fan to make sure it wasn't frozen up.

Luckily, it had been left parked in gear but without the brake being set or I'd surely have had the rear shoes rusted to the drums. The only difficulty I had with the brakes was that the M/C was empty. I filled it and started pumping the pedal, only to find that it had once had a hydraulic trailer brake which had been removed leaving the line open and I had just squirted brake fluid all over the engine bay. I removed the tee fitting and refilled the reservoir, pumped up and bled the brakes and they held. I did have to replace one wheel cylinder a few months later and the M/C is now in need of replacement.

The starter was loose so I took it all the way out and bench tested it, then put it back in, stuck in a fresh battery and cranked it over.

At about this point I loaded it up on a trailer and hauled to my work, where I continued to work on it. The points of course needed to be cleaned before I got spark, and I filled up the float bowl on the carb with fresh gas (I generally fill them through the vent tube when doing something like this) and with a little cranking, it fired. After it warmed up I changed the oil, then drove it home.

This sounds like a lot, but really, it wasn't that bad. But make sure you get any and all old gas out of the tank, don't try to dilute it with fresh and run it through. Burning old gas in an FE can lead to bent pushrods...don't ask me how I know

 

Okay all those are really good ideas. Be prepared for alot of work my friend. I bought my 72 F100 for 500.00 and now i have spent well over 3,000.00 on parts and tools and paint. Of course im not saying you'll need to spend that much. Just depends on what your looking to do and how you want to restore it. Im doing a frame-up restoration. The choice is yours.

 

Oh if it was me and only if it was me. I would just buy a new battery, alternator, coil, distributor cap, points, rotor, spark plugs, wires, voltage regulator and solenoid. Oh and a new edelbrock 600 cfm carb. As long as there isnt any major engine problem, it'll fire right up. This way you wont have to replace any of these components for a while.

 

I like to check for engine lock up buy turning the crank by hand vs starter. If free, I run the oil pump to prime every thing up. I use a cordless drill to spin the hex drive w/dist removed.

The auto tran (c6) may have some dried out seals, but you want be able to find that out you get it running.

Just take your time, the fuel will be the #1 thing, to get it started. Ignition is next, then see if it starts. Brakes will be #2. If the lines are dry rotted, replace them all before you start driving it. It will not be fun if one blow when you try to stop and the petal goes to the floor. All of the drum brakes may be rusted up. so it may take some rocking to break them free.

 

I appreciate all of the good support. Everyone has had some good information, but the one constant theme is to replace the old gas with new. I will start there and continue replacing parts as needed. Please keep the information coming. I need all the help I can get.

 

I agree with the hand turning of the crank rather than using the starter. The next thing I'd do if it's not frozen is change the oil/filter. Check what comes out for metal chunks. If you do get it fired up and plan to run it without a rebuild, you wouldn't want that decade old sludge sucked up by the pump and distributed through your engine. Ditto on the gas.

 

if you find out motor is shot you might try rebuilding a 302 thats what i did and i run it to death and can't get it to break 302's are most def. a good motor

 

You know you are gonna change the oil and filter, right? Drain the oil and get it into a container that you can see if it looks like it may have any water in it. Blocks can freeze and crack, check all of the freeze plugs to make sure they look like they are holding.

I find that stabbing the dist back in to be a royal PITA, so my preference is to remove all of the spark plugs and pour a couple spoon fulls of Marvels Mystery oil in each plug hole (do this early on and let the oil soak in) and with new oil in the block turn the engine over until the oil pressure gauge come up to operating pressure. With the plugs out there isn't much resistance on the starter.

I like to put some starter gas in a small neck pop or water bottle for drizzling in the carb don't use anything wide mouth. And no starter fluids either, only gas.

Another favorite is to fill a antifreeze jug with gas and hook it to the fuel pump and first run the engine off that gallon of fresh gas. Be sure to wedge the jug in so that it wont turn over and spill gas.

My couple coppers.



John