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I Have a 3" bady with 33" tires and im going to add a rough country 6" lift kit. I want to know what tire size i should run or how big i could go. Any advice would be greatly aprecialted.
Well what you "should" run is what you want to run and afford to run, now what you CAN run is another story. My first bit of advice is lose the body lift.
Now if you choose to keep it the you will be able to run 38"s easy and probably 39.5"s depending on how much you have to flex in your particular style of offroading.
If you lose the body lift then you can fit 36" easy and 37"s once again flex dependant.
I'm running 38's with 6" and cut out flares. I would expect you could run the same. The flares equal about 3" of lift.
One other thing I hear over and over. Let me say this clearly. Its not that TTB doesnt like big tires, its Dana 44s that dont like big tires. It really doesnt matter wheather its TTB or solid, the spindles, brakes, u-joints, outer axles, gears are all the same. The only differnce in strength is there is one more u-joint to brake on one inner axle. But thats not the u-joint that gives you trouble. (its the two at the wheels) Hell, the TTB even has a slight atvantage in ground clearance. I had a solid axle D44 before (Scout II) and I broke the same u-joints I brake on my TTB. (you have to be pretty rough on them)The biggest problem with TTB is the steering geometry is not very good. (they dont track well) Do I want a Dana 44 SAS? Yes, but not for strength. For highway wonder. If I wanted strength, I would go to a Dana 60. Do I have to say this again?
I have a 94' bronco with the 5.8 I have'nt had any problems with the TTB suspension to date but i do notitice that it doesnt like to steer very well once in four wheel drive alot of binding. Is there anything i can do to fix this with the lift?
Thats not because of TTB. Thats just the nature of four wheel drive on hard surface. It gets worse with lockers. One other thing I might mention, If you go bigger than 33's, you should change gears in the diff.
I went from stock to 33's without changing gears and noticed an immediate power loss and gas mileage hit of about 3 MPG highway and 5 MPG city. If I'm considering changing gears for 33's, you'd really better do it for anything bigger.
In therry, with bigger tires your power should go down and your gas millage should go up. The problem is if your engine doesnt have enough ***** to keep the truck going in OD, it will down shift to third and give you the gas millage hit. The other problem with big tires and not changing diff gears is you first gear clutches will burn up in the tranny.
The "bigger tires give gas mileage" usually never works out. bigger tires are heavier, so they take more to get them going. Plus, you have to get into the gas more to get going at a decent rate. There goes youre mileage. Not to mention bigger tires put you higher in the air, and kills what little areodynamics these bricks on wheels have.
Im definitly regearing it and throughing in a powertrax at the same time. What are some of the main points to upgrade on the ttb to give it a little more durability til i get the SAS in.
Gears Gears Gears.....sure comes up a lot, but it seems to me to be pretty important. I'm running 33's with a 3.5:1 9" rear end, ( 351 / C6 ) and find my truck to be a bit sluggish on the low end. Wasn't there a chart posted somewhere showing optimums ?