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nitrous? nitrous? and more nitrous?

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Old Feb 7, 2008 | 02:25 PM
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nitrous? nitrous? and more nitrous?

hey everybody i have a built 460 with a mild cam,10:01 keith black pistons, ported and polished heads, headers,and a 750 holley and i wanted to know if it would be ok to put 100-150 shot of nitrous oxide on it with my CR rating with out killing the motor? as long as i don't abuse it i should be fine and if its setup and tuned right? everything i remember about nitrous is based off of imports. but thats not alot anyways so could yall teach me everything i need to know about using it on a BB ford. and will i have to add something to my fuel i should'nt because the nitrous makes up for that right? it also cools the intake charge, yeah i know i have alot to learn so yall wanna help me out.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2008 | 11:17 PM
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If you have the fuel system to support the 100-150 shot, then you that beast of a motor will respond quite well. Higher compression motors work very well with nitrous so long as it's tuned properly for the fuel-octane you plan to use.

One thing I think you'll notice, over an import 4 banger with the same HP shot, is the huge torque increase with that 460...get some sticky tires.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2008 | 07:01 AM
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A 100 to 150hp shot should be fine; if, as you say you watch fuel pressure and use good fuel, pull timing and check all the plugs. Hypereutectic pistons don't mix well with big loads of nitrous. Nitrous is the most violent of the power adders (in regard to piston loading).
Depending on the amount of times you plan to spray a window switch can help prevent problems by only allowing application within your preset rpm band.
Keep us informed on how it goes.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2008 | 01:38 PM
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Hell, I ran a 150 HP shot on my bone stock '73 460 for about a year....that equated out to about 30 refills on my 10# bottle. I LOVED IT. Man, talk about a tire shredding good time (spool and 295-50/15s) at any speed below 55 MPH. Anything above that and hold on to your saddle horn!!

I grew out of the nitrous though and am working on turbocharging the poor red-headed step child now.....HA HA HA.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2008 | 03:11 PM
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thanks, so i should'nt have a to run race fuel? i allready run premium and yeh i wanted to supercharge it but i was told i have to much CR so the next best thing it nitrous and a bigger cam.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2008 | 05:45 PM
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The GENERAL rule of thumb is to retard ignition timing 2-4 degrees per 50 HP shot.....if it detonates, you need to go farther retarded.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2008 | 06:28 PM
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gosh i don't know whats wrong with me why didn't i think of that, ok one more thing i have a 750 holley so if i tune this thing to run with out nitrous and i get the wet kit then i should be ok and only have to tune it a little bit so its tuned right for both na and nitrous i mean i just dont want it to be way rich when im not using it just so its not lean when i do use it but then again thats why i should get a WET KIT right?
 
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 04:22 PM
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and the kit i was looking at is a wet kit on jegs its a nos power shot kit and it sayys 125hp
 
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 08:00 PM
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Yes, a "wet" kit is what you want. That way you run your regular, vague, crappy carburetor "every day" driving mixture. When you press the "go baby, go" button, THEN you get the added fuel to keep from running a lean mixture that kills your engine.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 09:18 AM
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You will still need to concern yourself with timing.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 04:16 PM
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yea when my autometer a/f guage gets here im gonna tune it then i will get the nos kit but this guy pulled up besided me tomday in a stock f150 and i thought he wanted to race but he didnt he just wanted me to get on when i left the light and i did kinda but it broke the tires lose and i didnt get on it hard at all so it made me start thinking that i might want to get some nice WIDE street tires first but that means new rims to and i dont have the money to buy rims,tires and the nos kit so that might be a problem.im telling yall this because i was going to post pictures, i know yall know how to do all that stuff lol i will probably need a little help myself but i also know how much we all like pictures.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 09:00 AM
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The Autometer A/F gauge has a narrow band O2 sensor, tuning has to be very close to show on scale so make small changes. Start with idle and then transition and finally WOT. Whichever manufacturer you go with for your nitrous kit just follow the jet recommendations and they'll keep you on the fat side of tuning. Start with the smaller shot and work up. If you have a mechanical fuel pump you may notice a slight pulsation with the bigger shot of nitrous, this is normal. You need to wire in something to pull timing (MSD retard as an example) when you hit the bottle or adjust the tuning (retard timing) before you spray. Make sure your cap and rotor are in good shape as well as the wires and check your plugs. Change anything suspect.
It's not rocket science, just follow the recommendations and don't cut corners and you can enjoy the increaed HP & Torque without concern.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 01:33 PM
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thankd for the advise but i did get the wideband this is it http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...60201_-1_10625
 
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 46069dord
thankd for the advise but i did get the wideband this is it http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...60201_-1_10625
That is a wideband, you will be fine. Autometer also sells a narrow band that only indicates when you are seeing 14.7:1, and then simply tells you if you are above or below that, not really useful for tuning a power adder.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 11:27 PM
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Oh, and I HAD to run .015" spark plug gaps too....otherwise, the spark would simply run down the center ceramic to ground and the engine would bog. I would have 2-3 bursts and then I'd have to put new plugs in. I ran about 20 or so bottles with the same plugs at .015" gap.
 
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