need help timimg a 5.4
#1
#2
timing 5.4
I also found this confusion when refering to the manual trying to find timing marks. I you clean the chains you will notice the two links are slightly gold colored compared to the others. also if straighten the chain out the two links should be equal distance from each other. straight across from each other though when you install them looks are deceiving it doesnt look like even distance but it is.those tensioners are tricky too.
#3
There should be a timing mark on the crank pulley that lines up with a mark on the block when the engine is at #1 cylinder TDC, plus there are timing marks on the cam sprockets. From past experience YOU CANNOT CHECK THAT THE TIMING MARKS ARE STILL LINED UP!!! it is easy to end up 1 tooth off.
#4
Here is how to time a 5.4:
If you can't see the gold links on the chain lay it on a table and stretch it out like this
========= at one end the link will be like l and the other end will be = . Mark all 3 links with white paint or something that will not rub off. These are your timing marks. Turn the crank so the key is at 12 o-clock and there will be a line on the crank sprocket at 7 o-clock. Set the left cam timing mark to 12 o-clock and the rt cam to 11 o-clock. Install the straight guides and the left chain first placing the single white link on the crank mark and the double white links on either side of the cam mark. Repeat for the right side then install the tensioner arms and then the tensioners. You need to compress the tensioners before you can install them. Stick a small screwdriver in the lock to release it and push in the plunger. Then push in the small ratchet arm and insert a small pin or paper clip into the hole to hold the tensioner retracted. Double-check the marks before you install the timing cover. DONT forget the crank sensor trigger wheel or you will be chasing a no-start concern (don't ask how I know LOL)
If you can't see the gold links on the chain lay it on a table and stretch it out like this
========= at one end the link will be like l and the other end will be = . Mark all 3 links with white paint or something that will not rub off. These are your timing marks. Turn the crank so the key is at 12 o-clock and there will be a line on the crank sprocket at 7 o-clock. Set the left cam timing mark to 12 o-clock and the rt cam to 11 o-clock. Install the straight guides and the left chain first placing the single white link on the crank mark and the double white links on either side of the cam mark. Repeat for the right side then install the tensioner arms and then the tensioners. You need to compress the tensioners before you can install them. Stick a small screwdriver in the lock to release it and push in the plunger. Then push in the small ratchet arm and insert a small pin or paper clip into the hole to hold the tensioner retracted. Double-check the marks before you install the timing cover. DONT forget the crank sensor trigger wheel or you will be chasing a no-start concern (don't ask how I know LOL)
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#10
5.4 3v timing jumped??
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#11
sounds like you may know some of the Modular stuff? I have the valve cover off on drivers side, oil filler off on passangers side to see inside-crank at TDC, drivers side is a bit to the rt, say 1:00 instead of 12:00. if i bring the crank back to 10 btc it is straight up and down. is this a possibility it is off a tooth? i havent pulled the pass vc due to ac restrictions yet, but is the an accurate way to check this? getting a p0340 and all wiring and PCM tests good, runs bad and dies with cmp plugged in. is there enough clearence in the valve to piston ratio to not cause damage if this is off?
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You really need to take both valve covers off so you can see both cams and their marks and in the mean time I'll check my manual.
#12
A big +1 on this. The crank positioning tool (which cost $80) is not even needed as long as you line up the marks on the timing chains.
#13
5.4 SOHC cam Timing
sounds like you may know some of the Modular stuff? I have the valve cover off on drivers side, oil filler off on passangers side to see inside-crank at TDC, drivers side is a bit to the rt, say 1:00 instead of 12:00. if i bring the crank back to 10 btc it is straight up and down. is this a possibility it is off a tooth? i havent pulled the pass vc due to ac restrictions yet, but is the an accurate way to check this? getting a p0340 and all wiring and PCM tests good, runs bad and dies with cmp plugged in. is there enough clearence in the valve to piston ratio to not cause damage if this is off?
Thanks
Thanks
#14
sounds like you may know some of the Modular stuff? I have the valve cover off on drivers side, oil filler off on passangers side to see inside-crank at TDC, drivers side is a bit to the rt, say 1:00 instead of 12:00. if i bring the crank back to 10 btc it is straight up and down. is this a possibility it is off a tooth? i havent pulled the pass vc due to ac restrictions yet, but is the an accurate way to check this? getting a p0340 and all wiring and PCM tests good, runs bad and dies with cmp plugged in. is there enough clearence in the valve to piston ratio to not cause damage if this is off?
Thanks
Thanks
And THAT, pretty much sums up the timing procedure on any 4.6/5.4/6.8L engine.