U joint
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 453
Likes: 0
U joint
Is it worth the trouble to tack in the u joint caps into the axle. As long as its a little tack and I keep the heat down, so i dont melt the needle bearings. This is because I have trouble with the C clips falling out and the caps walking out of the axel. 89 f150
thanks nick
thanks nick
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,330
Likes: 17
From: Dryden, ON, Canada
If this is the axle shaft, and you're using greaseable joints, go ahead and tack 'em in, you're probably going to take out the axle shafts when the u-joint breaks anyway, so, there is no real downside other than being harder to change the joint, but, in my experience, in a 44, they usually break before they wear out... LOL
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 0
From: St George, SC I-95
Originally Posted by 82F100SWB
If this is the axle shaft, and you're using greaseable joints, go ahead and tack 'em in, you're probably going to take out the axle shafts when the u-joint breaks anyway, so, there is no real downside other than being harder to change the joint, but, in my experience, in a 44, they usually break before they wear out... LOL
X2. They break real easy too....
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 453
Likes: 0
Ya its not the drive shafts its the front axels "sh##$Y TTB". I plow snow alot and every now and them I have problems with the U joint caps walking out. The axels arnt worn out, I just dont think "I know" a TTB wasnt meant to plow large amounts of snow. Its fine if I check them after each job because some times I will catch a cap right before it falls out, but with the large amount of snow i got lazy and forgot. And what do you know I hear the popular TTB death cry. I ended up toasting the inner and outer driverside axels.
Ill post some pics of the carnage as soon as I get the broken parts out!!!!
thanks nick
Ill post some pics of the carnage as soon as I get the broken parts out!!!!
thanks nick
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 0
From: St George, SC I-95
Originally Posted by Ford150/428/dud
a TTB wasnt meant to plow large amounts of snow.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,911
Likes: 7
From: Crowville Louisiana
Trending Topics
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 984
Likes: 8
I weld my caps completely. I haven't had a joint wear out yet, it breaks and takes out the axle in less than a year. You just have to be careful not to melt all the grease out of the joint. I've also had some success on building up weld around the yokes. I'd only do that if you are breaking shafts all the time. The ones I weld all over tend to last a little longer.
Matt
Matt
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Ford Super Duty: 5 Things Owners LOVE, 5 Things They LOATHE!
Joe Kucinski
Every 2026 Ford Truck Engine RANKED from WORST to FIRST!
Michael S. Palmer
The Best F-150 Deal of Every Trim Level (XL through Raptor)
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 453
Likes: 0
Welding in the whole thing in, I wont need to go that extreme. I figured that the heat would be too much for the needle bearings. I think it should be ok with only one tack, its just to keep the cap from spinning in the axle and throwing off the stupid C clip. So when and if I need to change them in the future from wear I can just grind off the tack.
Last edited by Ford150/428/dud; Feb 5, 2008 at 08:18 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta GA
I thought about your topic and I know what you mean about busting out that lousy C-clip. In the FWIW department I have found making the depression in which it sits a hair wider/bigger/deeper helps.
If I was going to weld anything, I would get my sawzall out, cut some rod or even a impact socket that would fit into the slight depression between the cap and yoke surface.
Then I would weld that to a piece of 1/8 plate. Then tack that sheet to the yoke so I could easily grind it off whenever. I imagine it might shake a bit more at 100 mph ;-D, but, if you did both sides of the yoke I think it would be good enough for plowing.
Plus, much easier to grind off and I think it would offer more support and you would not have to worry about the potted metal cap breaking from the welding or nuking anything with heat.
If I was going to weld anything, I would get my sawzall out, cut some rod or even a impact socket that would fit into the slight depression between the cap and yoke surface.
Then I would weld that to a piece of 1/8 plate. Then tack that sheet to the yoke so I could easily grind it off whenever. I imagine it might shake a bit more at 100 mph ;-D, but, if you did both sides of the yoke I think it would be good enough for plowing.
Plus, much easier to grind off and I think it would offer more support and you would not have to worry about the potted metal cap breaking from the welding or nuking anything with heat.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 984
Likes: 8
That shaft looks pretty compaired to the ones mine spit out. I wish I would have taken pics or saved the shaft. The joint was gone, yokes completely missing, broke the shaft at the spider gear, trashed the spiders as well.
Matt
Matt