Is it worth the trouble to tack in the u joint caps into the axle. As long as its a little tack and I keep the heat down, so i dont melt the needle bearings. This is because I have trouble with the C clips falling out and the caps walking out of the axel. 89 f150

thanks nick

 

Sounds like the drive shaft is worn out. I don't think that I would tack the U joints in the drive shaft.

 

If this is the axle shaft, and you're using greaseable joints, go ahead and tack 'em in, you're probably going to take out the axle shafts when the u-joint breaks anyway, so, there is no real downside other than being harder to change the joint, but, in my experience, in a 44, they usually break before they wear out... LOL

 

X2. They break real easy too....

 

Ya its not the drive shafts its the front axels "sh##$Y TTB". I plow snow alot and every now and them I have problems with the U joint caps walking out. The axels arnt worn out, I just dont think "I know" a TTB wasnt meant to plow large amounts of snow. Its fine if I check them after each job because some times I will catch a cap right before it falls out, but with the large amount of snow i got lazy and forgot. And what do you know I hear the popular TTB death cry. I ended up toasting the inner and outer driverside axels.

Ill post some pics of the carnage as soon as I get the broken parts out!!!!

thanks nick

 

A TTB wasnt meant for a lot of things. Ride quality while everything is stock is the the only upside that comes to mind.

 

That sucks.

 

I weld my caps completely. I haven't had a joint wear out yet, it breaks and takes out the axle in less than a year. You just have to be careful not to melt all the grease out of the joint. I've also had some success on building up weld around the yokes. I'd only do that if you are breaking shafts all the time. The ones I weld all over tend to last a little longer.

Matt

 

Welding in the whole thing in, I wont need to go that extreme. I figured that the heat would be too much for the needle bearings. I think it should be ok with only one tack, its just to keep the cap from spinning in the axle and throwing off the stupid C clip. So when and if I need to change them in the future from wear I can just grind off the tack.

 

I thought about your topic and I know what you mean about busting out that lousy C-clip. In the FWIW department I have found making the depression in which it sits a hair wider/bigger/deeper helps.

If I was going to weld anything, I would get my sawzall out, cut some rod or even a impact socket that would fit into the slight depression between the cap and yoke surface.

Then I would weld that to a piece of 1/8 plate. Then tack that sheet to the yoke so I could easily grind it off whenever. I imagine it might shake a bit more at 100 mph ;-D, but, if you did both sides of the yoke I think it would be good enough for plowing.

Plus, much easier to grind off and I think it would offer more support and you would not have to worry about the potted metal cap breaking from the welding or nuking anything with heat.

 

OK I got some pics.
This is what happens when you apply 235 A/Ts, 300I6, and a heavy foot to a TTB!!

 

Don't need a heavy foot for that... My diesel produces similar results just off idle... LOL

 

Go figure,
I wasnt even on the gas and it let loose.

 

nice pics! atleast you found the ujoint. mine was nowhere in sight.

Minions need a carnage page but I guess that means I have to take my D44 apart to snap pics of the broke shafts

 

That shaft looks pretty compaired to the ones mine spit out. I wish I would have taken pics or saved the shaft. The joint was gone, yokes completely missing, broke the shaft at the spider gear, trashed the spiders as well.

Matt