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Proprer procedure - Glow Plug Replacement

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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 09:14 AM
  #1  
Ridgerunner500's Avatar
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Smile Proprer procedure - Glow Plug Replacement

Hello Guys,
Found out I'm driving around with one good glow Plug. Can someone who has the instructions on how to replace Glow Plugs please place a link. I would sure be gratefull. Thanks In Advance Randy
 
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 11:11 AM
  #2  
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Maybe this will help.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ke-thread.html
 
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 11:49 AM
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Randy,


Here is a write up I found for a 1994 Powerstroke. Glow plug replacement procedure is the same for 99 to 2003 7.3L.

Edit: Make sure your UVC harness is good before you go through all the trouble and expense to replace your glow plugs.

Edit: A couple of things that aren't mentioned:

1. Don't let oil run down through the glow plug hole into the cylinder. A little won't hurt, but keep it to a minimum. The glow plugs are on the high side of the head so it shouldn't be much of a problem. Just clean up any oil around glow plug before removal.
2. Once you have the new glow plugs in and connected recheck ohm readings at the valve cover connector for correct readings before you re-install valve cover.



Glow Plug Replacement


Before opening up the valve cover, it is a good idea to get everything above them out of your way. I chose not to remove the insulation on the A/C evaporator. I did remove most of the intake system before the turbo. I pulled all the intake plumbing off the engine from the air box to the turbo inlet. I also opened the air box and removed the filter. While this is not necessary, I did this because I use the air box as a handy bolt and tool holder. It holds all your tools andsmall parts, keeping them within arms reach at all times. It also keeps you from losing these parts. nuts and bolts on the not so flat radiator support. I always remove all the bigger parts toan area of the truck where I know I will not fall, step or drop something on them. Typically I will put them in the bed of the truck so that they do not get lost or damaged during the repair. Organization is the key to a minimum stress repair. Once all the clutter is out of the way I can start the preparations for removing the valve cover bolts. I cleaned the head and valve covermating area and high pressure oil rail of loose scale chipped paint and dirt. This keeps all that crap from getting inside the engine when the valve covers come off. After a good cleaning and once over I remove all the bolts. Once all the bolts are removed the cover lifts off with no effort. If there is any problem getting the cover off you probably have left a bolt that you may have over-looked. Once the valve cover is off you can see the gasket and the harness inside it. Inspect allthe wires leading from the inside clip for burning or fraying. Remove the valve cover to a safe place and store it for later. Removing the Glow Plugs: Use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the connectors from the tops of the plugs. They come off with moderate resistance. I have Craftsman tools and the glow plug requires a 10 mm deep socket for removal. The Craftsman 1/4 inch drive deep 10 mm. socket with the 3/8 inch to 1/4 inch adapter fits perfectly in the tight area the glow plug sits in. All other Craftsman deep wells were annoying at best to get inside the small space. I loosened the plug and then removed the socket. I used a tip from the Dieselmann's site that employs a 6 inch piece of 3/16" or 1/4" fuel line. Slide one end of the fuel line over the top of the plug after loosening the plug and then turn the tubing, the plug will unscrew and lift out on the tubing. I have big fingers and plucking them out with my fingers would have been a pain in the butt. I removed all of the old plugs and then replaced them with new ones. The 1/4 inch fuel line works very well installing them too. After installing all four of them to rubber hose tightness I torqued them into place. Torque each plug to 14 ft lb. (168 inch lb..) Reconnect the glow plug connectors and insure that all the injector connectors are firmly in place before reinstalling the Valve Cover. Clean the Valve cover with carburetor cleaner or solvent and insure that the mating surface of the valve cover is clean and dry, free from any dirt or debris. Reinstall the valve cover torqing the bolts to 8 ft lb.. (96 inch lb..). Repeat this procedure for the other side.


 

Last edited by PaysonPSD; Feb 4, 2008 at 12:48 PM.
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 08:14 AM
  #4  
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From: Front Range Colorado
Thank You Guys
PaysonPSD- Is the UVC Harness the one under the Valve Covers? I've heard it comes loose. There are some Clips to hold secure? Is this correct? Where do you get them from? Sorry for all these Questions Randy
 
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 09:41 AM
  #5  
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Randy,

See this link
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...tor-issue.html
Don't be sorry for "all these questions". That is what keeps this forum running.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 11:00 AM
  #6  
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Man PaysonPSD
Did I ever learn something there. Appreciated your help here will definitely check
out that clip. Randy
 
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 11:48 AM
  #7  
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PaysonPSD
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Let me know how things go. Good Luck, but I hope you don't need it.

I'm on here almost every day, and learn something new every time. Keep coming back whether you have problems or not. I hate corrective maintenance and this is a great place to find preventative maintenance advice.
 

Last edited by PaysonPSD; Feb 5, 2008 at 11:54 AM.
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 01:30 AM
  #8  
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Thumbs up

Got the whole project done saturday started about 8:00 am finnished about 2:00 pm.
Everything went pretty good, found out you don't want use a old glass medicine dropper I ended up braking mine down- next to the Glow Plug, that got a little western. Thanks again for all the tips Guys__ This Forum Rocks__ Randy
 
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 01:37 AM
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Randy,

Been watchin' for ya. Glad all went well. Yeah, this site ROCKS.
 
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