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c4 transmission bad?

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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 01:10 PM
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rmalottwtes30
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c4 transmission bad?

I got the c4 in that I bought, when we drained it it had a lot of gunk in it so I was leary about it...We put on a new B&m Shifter and I guess got it adjusted right, filled it up with fluid. But no move...when you shift it through the gears you cant feel any movement, and you can go through all the gears and wont move. Guess Its a bad tranny? Any way to tell whats wrong? Any tips or advise so I aint gotta go buy another one?
 
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 03:10 PM
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anybody got any suggestions?
 
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 05:46 PM
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"when we drained it it had a lot of gunk in it"

Define "gunk" - dirt, metal shavings, dog hair? What color was it? Did it stink? Dirty tranny fluid is usually a bad omen. After I installed a new 302 in my 69', the C4 tossed in the towel - ended up having it rebuilt. The fluid was brown, burnt and stank to high heaven.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 05:50 PM
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Whatever the stuff was it was black, I don't know what it was...
 
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 06:04 PM
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Fine black 'crap' is normally the remains of clutches and bands as the friction material wears away. At times, depending on wear--it could also contain silver specks. It's normal in a way, as things wear as they do--they get stuck on the magnet in the pan.

Now if we are talking larger 'chunks' of stuff? That's telling me that the bands and/or clutches have worn to the point the material is almost 'tearing' away from the bonding surfaces.

Not sure exactly what is going on (hard to tell by just reading things-and not having the unit on my bench) But it's a fair bet that either the valves in the valve body are just seized up due to all the gunk....(also if you removed the valve body, or someone else did? The retaining screws/bolts can be over-tightened, which will actually 'warp' the valve body and seize the valves.)..

It's that or the pump itself is just about bunged up with crap and can't build up any pressure.

This is just a guess on my part. I am personally not a fan of the C4 series of transmissions. I blew through 2 of them on a project car I used to own back years ago. I wound up replacing it with an FMX out of a 72' Merc. Big difference when you go from an alumin. housing...over to a very solid not flexing cast iron.

S-
 
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 05:30 PM
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could it be that the fitting we got going into the transmission cooler is real small and isnt flowing much fluid?
 
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 06:10 PM
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I'd have to actually look at the way that part of the system is configured. It's not that large of a steel line for the cooler, and even with a restricted flow at that point? If you put 'er into drive or reverse? After some amount of time it should be able to build up enough pressure to engage drive or reverse.

Heck, if you want to see if you have pressure? Disconnect the feed line to the cooler and point it into a gallon jug (a clean one). All it should take is a second or two and you should have all sorts of flow. Now if you do that, and get zippola? Something is either clogged at the pump--or the pump itself is duff.

S-
 
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Old Feb 7, 2008 | 10:52 AM
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when you put it in did you make sure the TC was in correctly. i put mine in not to long ago, and i spun the pump. ended up just getting a rebuilt one.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2008 | 02:00 PM
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actually we used the radiator for the cooler...
 
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Old Feb 7, 2008 | 04:39 PM
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What he is referring to is the Torque Converter. The last "Step" the torque converter attaches is what physically spins the transmission pump! When installed you should feel it go over the 'splines' internally, and then if you spin it with light force towards the transmission? You will feel the converter engage the pump on the front housing. It should then be fully seated in. By any chance did it seem a bit tight when installed? Kinda like the converter was sticking out about 1/2" to far?

S-
 
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