Hi All,

Just bought a '78 F150 w/460 .
Did all of the preliminary stuff , plugs , oil etc.
460 ran for 1/2 hour in the shed .
Drove to town to fuel up .Started home .

Engine died a sputtering death .
Did not died immediatyely .

Waited a few minutes and she fired up , drove for 100 yds.
and repeat until the battery is dead ...

Possible electronic module ?
They usually die quickly , don't they ?

Seemed starved for fuel ...
carb is suspect ...
would a fuel pump act this way ?

Also had detonation in the exhaust system ...

Timing problem ?
Carb ?
Valves ?
( idled well in the shed , would not valve problem be
evident at an idle ? )

The distributor is froze in the block .
Any thoughts on how to un freeze the distributor ?

Thank You
dP

 

I had a fuel pump do this one time. Drove 7 miles home about 100 feet at a time (thank god for a good battery and alternator). Module could be the culprit also. Pull the fuel line from the carb and have someone bump the starter. It should shoot a steady stream 10 ft or so.

Nathan

 

Hi Nathan ,

Thanks .
My battery did not hold out as well :-)
This 460 is from a pollution control car with all
of the stuff pulled off .
When the engine is warm , she is a bit " snappy" to start .
She either fires right away or it will not turn over for long ...
to much advance .
I'm trying another carb , ign module and fuel pump .
Hope I don't have to walk too far .... :-)

dP

 

i would say to find out for sure what the problem is before throwing on new parts in both the ignition and fuel systems...i suppose theres a small chance it could be a little of both, but im guessing its one or the other. first check to make sure that you are getting fuel whenever it dies. as nathan said, just pull the hose off the carb and see if its getting gas. you know its working some of the time so check it right after it's died and wont start up. if your getting gas, then dont bother with a fuel pump...move on to the ignition. ive had similar problems with bad distributors and bad ignition control modules....a lot of times its just hit and miss with that kind of thing. as for getting the distributor unstuck...try making a little notch in the base of the distributor and then attempt to spin it by hitting it with a chisel and a hammer. prying up on stuck distributors has never worked for me, and hitting them near the top, especially on the vacuum advance assembly, has left me with a malfunctioning dist. before. good luck

 

If you happen to have a Small pipe wrench on hand, and enough clearance for the wrench around the dist, the pipe wrenches are designed to grip round thingss.. Might be worth a try. have fun... and good luck! I know what it's like to walk..

J/.c

1965 Ford Galaxie 500 (okay, so not quite a truck)
460/C6 transplant @ 389hp/491 lb.ft.
14.29@103.8, 13-14 mpg heheheheheh

 

Hi All ,

Gave up on removing the distributor & the intake manifold .
Putting on a different carb along with an automati to manual
choke conversion unit to bypass the " heat pipes " .

I hope to run her this weekend ... cross youyr fingures

Thanks foe all of the tips ... I'm checking them one at a time .

dP

 

Had more probs with this motor ...
Time to put a different 460 in the truck ...
nice relaxing Saturday

Thanks All ,
I'll keep you posted

dP

 

Hi all ,

The saga continues ...
old 460 came out slick as a whistle ....

lined up the next 460 and ran into a problem ...

how does one remove the old cast iron exhaust headers ?
I twisted 2 off with the impact wrench ...
Shall I continue twisting them off and drill the bolts
out and re tap , or does someone have a great idea on
removing 24 yr old header bolts ?

Thanks ...

dP

 

Heat is the best... if you cant find a way to heat the manifold bolts up, then soak them in penetrating oil (WD-40) for a few days.... if you dont want to break them. Spray on, let soak.. few hrs later , repeat. Again. Again. Again... takes time, but has never failed me..

J/.c

1965 Ford Galaxie 500 (okay, so not quite a truck)
460/C6 transplant @ 389hp/491 lb.ft.
14.29@103.8, 13-14 mpg heheheheheh

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 01-Aug-01 AT 04:31 PM (EST)[/font][p]Better than WD-40 for this is SiliKroil from Kano Labs, 1000 S. Thompson Lane, Nashville, TN. I've used it to take apart exhaust flanges on a Porsche where the nuts were rusted down so far I had to use a size smaller socket, and still the threads came apart perfectly. You could use it on that distributor, too, instead of chewing it up with a pipe wrench.


-- J.S.