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Man so much is going through my mind while I got this engine all apart. How hard would it be to port the heads and what sort of gains could I see from that. how much extra $$$ would it be from a machine shop to do that? I also looking to get Camshaft kit, and I am installing long tube headers, how much concievable horsepower gain could I expect if i do all of that?
I have never modded a 460 so this is from experience long ago with Dodge B Wedge engines.
From old memory, Porting and polishing is icing on the cake. Most engines will only gain a few percent HP, say 10 to 20hp over stock and that is only if the engine can take advantage of the mod. Cam, headers, engine work will get a lot more power than just porting, but it helps.
The 460 is known to be restrictive on the exhaust side so that is where you will get the most bang for buck.
It has been a LONG time since I have done this, but it can be done by hand with tools as simple as a drill and some stones. But an air grinder and porting kit would be better and faster, there are plenty of companies supplying "do it yourself " kits.
Main thing is to have either knowledge or templates showing where and how much to cut. You don't want to cut thru to a water jacket.
A simple port job would be to match the ports to the manifold gasket. Use the gasket as a template and scribe the port outline onto the heads. Just cut out the metal to match the scribe lines and go in an inch or so is relatively safe. To go deeper or to change the bowl profile would require knowledge or templates like I said.
A professional shop would charge quite a bit I have read, so it comes down to how much money do you wnat to spend on these mods. Port and Polish would be after all the other goodies in my mind.
I'd like to port some heads too but info seems to be hard to come by, the pics I've seen are hard to judge how much or where to grind without running into trouble.One site want's money to view the process and that might be the way to go.I did a GOOGLE on porting heads and got a liitle help.
I've looked around and having someone port the heads does seem a little pricey...starting at about $300.00 a head. Did you get a quote from the local machine shop who does this work?
I would be interested in doing this myself...but it is the "scare" factor of messing them up is what keeps me from doing it. I think I'll get some other JUNK heads and try them first before commiting to the ones I will be using...
Yeah but what types gains could you see from porting heads that would make it worth $600? I'd rather invest in new rocker arms and valves then screw with that, just makes me to nervous
From some reading, forums, books and other sources, most people say that a port can gain you somewhere between 15-20 HP. If I could do it myself, then I would do it. On the other hand, if I had to pay someone, I would agree there are better bolt ons that can gain you way more for the money.
Now if I'm trying to squeeze every last HP out of a motor, then paying someone to port them would be an option, but I am far from that point, at least on this motor.
Did you decide to roll with a CAM? If so, let me know how the truck idles, etc. with the CAM and which one you chose.
Well guy's, I have ported my own heads, first time for everything. I got my info on where and how deep from the Re In Car Nation web site of Scotty J's. It was the best money I ever spent. The whole process is very self fullfilling knowing that you did it yourself. Each head ended up being 3.5 lbs lighter in the end so yes there is room to do a lot of cutting. As far as HP gains, I have nothing other than the seat of the pants dyno for proof but it was worth a lot more than 20 HP garanteed. You can put all the parts you want on an eng if the heads can't breathe you are just wasting your money. The whole combination needs to be looked at for best results. A cam and headers might net you 75-100 HP but the same cam and header combo done along with the porting will be worth double. Just my opinion
Well I will ask that machine shop what they think, if they will do both heads for $250-350 then I will say okay, but any more than that i dont have much money to spend here, already $1,500 into the job as it is without the price of the cam ect..
Kurt A., I have seen the information on the Re-in-carnation website, but it seemed like it covered older heads and not the new "E" and "F" heads for the FI motors. Is this right or does the information pertain to these newer heads too? If so, I might look into subscribing for the information.
The heads that I did are the D3 variety not the FI heads. Scott J has specifics on the FI heads at his web site but as stated is limited in comparison to the D3's, DOVE'S and CJ's. According to Scott the stock E7 heads flow 247/142 CFM, intake and exhaust respectively. When ported they flow 312/219 CFM with the stock valves and 326/222 CFM with larger valves installed. In my case with the D3's the thermactor boss is removed and plugged in each exhaust port with the boss being shaped into a rib that helps to straighten the turbulent exhaust gasses. The Valves have been increased to 2.19" and 1.80". The Intake ports have been reshaped to promote swirl as the incoming charge enters the valve pocket. Sorry no pics, they are on my old computer and I have not figured out how to get them off yet.
Hey Kurt, how far did you go with your motor? I also wondering if the 25 bucks was worth it and clear enough for me not to do something stupid and go to deep. How much time did you have into the set? I'm planning on joining the NPPA (Nebraska Power Pullers Association) and your limited to cast heads, and since SCJ's are expensive and hard to come by I was wondering if I could pull all 700HP out of em by myself.
As far as my motor goes right now it is a bone stock 1968 429 bottom end with D3 heads ported to Scott's recommended maximum's with a 671 blower making 5 PSI boost, and a custom made electronic fuel injection system. Very near future will be a 545 cuin rotating asse. with 10 PSI boost. Got all the parts gathered up just a matter of getting the machine work done to the block and assembly time.
As far as time into the heads goes, I took me about 40 hrs to do both the heads. That includes the porting intake and exhaust ports to Max, Port matched to Felpro CJ intake gasket, Resizing the valve guides, Cutting down the tops of the valve guides to provide room for the intended valve lift, a multi angle seat job that blends right into the combustion chamber and valve pocket, complete deburr and polish of the combustion chambers, CC ing the combustion chambers so that all are the same, melting down some old pistons to fill the exhaust crossovers, Measuring and shiming the spring heights so that all have the same seat pressure, cutting down the rocker stud pedestals and installing full length 7/16th rocker studs, fitting a Jomar pro series stud girdle and Harland Sharpe roller rockers.
Kurt