So I noticed my liquid line was leaking pretty bad and I said to myself, " I should unplug the compressor so it can't come on until I can replace that hose" but I decided, no, it's winter, I won't need to use it. 5 days later the weather warms up a bit and I needed the defroster so I turned it on. A few minutes later I heard a squealing sound and my compressor has locked up tight.

The question for you guys is:

I know I need to replace these parts:

compressor
orifice tube
drier/accumulator
hoses

Do I also need to replace the condenser or anything else before I evacuate and recharge?

 

Yep, you'll need a condenser. They can't be reliably flushed. It's possible that the orifice is part of the liquid line. If you don't see it in the evaporator inlet, you'll need to replace the line. Flush any reused parts with solvent.
Good Luck.

After rereading your post I wanted to add that if it happens that only the pulley bearing has failed, then you will only need a compressor(orifice and accumulator would be a very good idea, but not crucial). If you can turn the clutch hub by hand the compressor didn't fail internally.

 

I haven't had a chance to take the belt off and check it out, but with the leak I had, I'm pretty sure the compressor is gone. My orifice tube is at the evaporator. Looks like I need to start saving my money to get this done before summer gets here.

 

Steve,
I kept missing the part about the leaky liquid line. If the liquid line was visibly leaking, the refrigerant would leak out quickly and the Low Pressure switch would prevent the compressor from engaging. It sounds like maybe you lost the pulley bearing. No need to pull the belt. Just grab the clutch plate and twist. If the clutch spins freely, the compressor is ok internally.

If the bearing didn't spin on the compressor hub, you might only need a clutch kit. I would personally replace the compressor, but it wouldn't be absolutely necessary if you wanted to save a few $. If it is only the pulley bearing the condenser would not need to be replaced, as the failure was external.
If the compressor is actually locked up, your list (including the condenser) is certainly the best course of action. Remember to flush the evaporator.

There is a product called Nylog that I use on all o-ring connections. It almost eliminates sealing issues in the Spring Lock fittings. Just a recommendation, it's good stuff.

Good Luck

 

Thanks for the help. That sounds like good advice.

I'm going to check it out at lunch. When the compressor acted up, it was dark, cold and rainy, so I didn't get to check it out real well. I do remember the belt squealing and smoke coming off of the pulley. With my money situation, I'd prefer to just replace the clutch and hose until bonus time in October. Then I might look into a new compressor.

Is Nylog available at the usual places or do I have to get it at an A/C supplier?

 

ackits.com carries Nylog, but you would have to order it and pay shipping. The discount chains don't have it. Check with NAPA or a Heating and Air place to see if they carry it or can get it. Here;s a link: http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?S...ory_Code=Nylog

 

I thought I posted earlier, but I guess I was dreaming it. I checked the compressor and I can't turn it by hand. It makes sense that the compressor should turn off if it's low. Do you think it could still be the clutch even if I can't turn it by hand? it seems odd that it would just die so suddenly like that. i never had any hint that it was going out.

 

n,That's really odd. Are you sure you were trying to turn the clutch hub and not the pulley? It sure sounds like the compressor is locked up tight
Rereading your original post, it sounds like the compressor locked up internally. BUT, if there was a visible leak, there shouldn't have been enough refrigerant for it to engage in the first place. Maybe your "leak" was oil being tossed from somewhere else?
We can ponder it till the cows come home, but the botton line is that you need a comp, condenser, accumulator, orifice and a system flush.(not much left to flush with all of the new parts).
I wouldn't be afraid of a used condenser if you know it came from a truck with an intact system and it looked good, here in Ohio, the tubes down the sides rust.
I would suggest a new compressor as opposed to a reman. Reman FS-10s often have shaft seal issues after a short time. ACKITS has new aftermarket FS-10s for about the price of a decent reman.
There is actual AC system flush solvent(Dura 151), but it's about $45/quart these days. Real lacquer thinner works just as well, you just have to blow things out more to dry it all up.
In your first posts you were on the right track with what you wanted to do. If you think we can be of any more help, just holler.
Good Luck!


Oh, the Nylog isn't a "must have", but do try and find some. It's like a "wonder goo" for Ford Spring Lock fittings. I've never had one leak that I used it on. It's just a good product that I always recommend.

 

I just had a clutch pulley bearing fail and completely locked up the system. engine wouldn't even start.

I'd recommend removing the clutch hub and pulley and see if the bearing comes out in pieces.

Once the pulley is removed, you can check to see if the compressor shaft is frozen or if it still turns properly.

Steve

 

Yea, I was grabbing the hub to try to turn it. I appreciate you guys helping. I'd heard that about the reman vs. new issues. I just talked to a guy parting out a truck just like mine. He's willing to sell me the compressor, condensor and soft lines for 75 bucks. He said the compressor spins easily by hand. Do you think it's worth a shot?
I think Rock Auto has a new compressor for about $180.

Do you use a regular air compressor to flush out the system? I guess any water left in the line is removed by the vacuum?

It also happens that I have a bad liquid line on my wife's minivan that needs attention. When it rains it pours. Since I'm a smart man I'm going to have to repair her's first. I want to get my parts now if they look good, but I think I will take the clutch off and see if thats the problem just for grins.

 

"Since I'm a smart man I'm going to have to repair her's first." Yep!

For flushing, you need a solvent and LOTS of compressed air. Don't use water! Lacquer thinner works well.
Look the lines on the donor system over really good, especially around the crimped fittings. If you see traces of oil, don't bother. Oil on the connections is ok, you'll fix that when you assemble it. Make sure there's no cracks, splits, or chafing. If they look ok, they should work. If there's some refrigerant in the system, this is a good sign.
Pop the clutch off of the used compressor and look for oil around the shaft seal. A little bit is ok, if it's wet the seal is leaking. If there's oily dirt on the compressor hub, don't bother. Also look for oil stains around the front and rear compressor body seals. If there's any at all, pass on the compressor.
Be sure to use a NEW accumulator and orifice regardless. Keep all of the lines and thje condenser capped off until you install them.
I've never used a compressor from Rock Auto, but if it is actually new and not a reman it's probably ok.
You didn't mention the year of the truck, is it an R12 or R134a system? Make sure to get the correct oil for the system.

 

i wasn't planning on using water for flushing. I just thought without a line drier, the compressed air might have alot of water in it. Thanks for the advice. I just need to get all the stuff together.

 

" i wasn't planning on using water for flushing. I just thought without a line drier"
Oohh, ok. A line dryer can help, but there shouldn't be much moisture in the air line. Any residual moisture will be pulled out wheh you pull a vacuum on the system before charging it. If there is any left, the desiccant in the accumulator will absorb it. That's it's job.

 

Ok lsrx, I have another question. I am looking at getting a vacuum pump off craigslist, probably a Robinair, and a set of gauges. I am obviously not going to be using them much but I figure if a have to evacuate and charge 2 systems, I might as well get the stuff, break even on the cost and have it for later. That way I can take care of any events in the future too. Plus, I'm a glutton for punishment. Do you have a set of gauges and what do you think about getting a cheap set? Are gauges the kind of tool that has to be good from the start or can I get by with the cheap set from Harbor Freight?

Anybody's recommendations are welcome.

 

Robinair is the #1 name in vacuum pumps IMHO. I've had mine for 25 years and it's paid for itself many times over. With that said, a used pump can be a real crapshoot. It may be just fine, but it could be worn out with the original oil inside.
The HF gauges I am not familiar with. I'm sure they will "work" but I doubt the quality.
Here's what I usually recommend. All good stuff and the price is right:
http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?S...egory_Code=DIY

If you spend less than that on the equipment, you risk quality issues. The higher priced kit is actually the better buy, as it comes with a 5cfm pump!! The pumps are Robinair design, as are the gauges so they are of good quality. The book that comes with it is worth it's weight in gold to a DIYer.

Look at it this way:
Your compressor replacement job would be about $1000-1200 at a shop, if done correctly. You might spend about that much on the parts and equipment so you won't save much on this job. You will save some, but you will be pretty close to even (The tools paidd for themselves here). The big payoff comes on the NEXT job, which you do yourself for the price of the parts, or better yet get PAID to do.