Well the block is in the shop and I got the pistons from TMI on Tuesday (thanks again TIm for always being available to give advice). I'm going with the 30 over for stock heads. I'm using the DEH265, holly street dominator, Edelbrock 1406, and hooker competition headers with 2.25 duals. This will be going in a 78 F250 2wd with C6 and 3.73 that will be mainly used for towing on highway and in hills in Oregon.

So here are my questions:
The shop wants to degree the cam, they say that ~60% are off and want to use a 9 way keyed timing set to be able to correct. This add about $100 to the build and I would rather save the money if not necissary.

The shop recommends using springs meant for the 460 argicultural water pump version of the motor that has less open spring force to extend cam life. Anyone have any experience with these? The way they explained it was because oils are not coming with the same additives as before and cams are not lasting as long with higher tension springs, and since my RPM range would be low (under 5K) this would be the best spring for me.

They have also recommended having the distributer redone since the cam will probably want more advance at idle over stock, which could put me into too much total advance. I bought the holley manifold so that I could still use EGR, but if I have to recurve the distributer anyway, should I get rid of the EGR, or should the stock setup be fine?

With a 9.2:1 CR is it advisable to get the 351C felpro race version head gasket? The shop recommended it since it has the wire that will reduce the chance of a seal failure. It is a $50 option, but I dont want to have issues in the future. They also do not warranty blown head gaskets since the CR is above stock.

Last question, does anyone have a link or suggestions for simple improvements to head flow. I have read through the posts, but each link I have found does not work. I plan on cleaning up the combustion chamber, but would like to know what to do to the exhaust port. Since I will be towing if this increases the chance of heat related issues i will probably skip it though. If you haven't guessed it yet this is my first rebuild.

Also, if I could get the numbers for this setup I would really appreciate it. The heads CC at ~79, so I put my CR at 9.23:1.

Thanks and I will update when I get the engine installed.

 

I think modern cams are hardly ever off, although I like to check them. You do need to make sure you have a new timing chain without the original retard built in. A double roller will have keyway adjustments.

Always use the cam makers recommended springs. Use a zinc additive for break in (see Crane Cams web site for break in). Many are using deisel oil now which has more zinc.

EGR is up to you unless you have to pass emmissions. A new timing curve and vacuum advance are highly recommended.

I'd use the regular felpro permaseal gaskets that don't need retorque after breakin. Your compression isn't high enough to worry about the gasket.

Id do a pocket port and clean up on the heads if budget allows. Polishing the combustion chambers might help reduce preignition. You are close to the limit for street compression.

Good luck!

 

That link takes you to Rock Auto.

 

beartracks,
I plan on having the cam set straight up, but am unsure if it is worth $52 to degree the cam. The 9 key way is also about $50 more than a standard three position double roller, so I would only use it if I have to.

I have a sniff test only, but was wanting to know if there would be any benefit to keeping the EGR if I have to recurve the distributer anyway.

I started working on the heads today. I smoothed out the air injection bumps in the exhaust passage and have been working on polishing the chambers. It is going slow since I am using a dremel, but I am not brave enough for the air grinder on my first time. The shop will let me take the heads back to finish the exhaust pocket work after they replace the exhaust seat, and I was hoping someone had a link to some pictures or instructions. I am worried about the water jackets or even making flow worse. I would pay to have it done, but this project is already overbudget.

Thanks for the help

 

I usead a die grinder for the first time on my exaust port, I removed the termoreactior hmps and they look as if they where never there... to die grind is pretty easy the hard part is the finishing touches, you want a smooth exaust port.....

 

I"m running a 400 that has been modified, Comp Cams 268, holley, Wieand, 30 over, and exhaust side work on the heads. Running the springs that came with the the cam kit, and upgraded head gaskets. I use the truck to tow the travel trailer, around 7K lbs loaded, use it for offroading. Had the motor done 2 years ago now, and no issues yet. Pulls from a stop in granny first at idle, and pulls through all the gears, runs along at 2700RPM for 100kmh, or about 65 mph. Runs and sounds like a champ.