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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 11:07 PM
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fomocoguy3's Avatar
fomocoguy3
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I bought a 460!

Ok, so I had been struggling with the delimma of what engine to put together for my 72 swb, and another 302 or a 300 6 were my first notions, then a 400. Well, that all went to hell in a handbasket yesterday when I cut a deal on a 70k mile 460 and C6 from a 72 LTD for $250! So, the build begins, with the first criteria being to ditch the factory D2VE heads, as most of you probably know they were the only year for an open chambered head and they are prone to detonation. What I want to find out is if anyone here knows what cc my 72's heads are, and what cc 73-up heads are, and what compression ratio I'd end up with if I swapped some later heads onto my engine. Factory is 8.5:1.

BTW, the plan is to freshen it up, put a performance timing set in it to do away with the factory 4 degree retard, put a Comp Cams 268H in it, intake, carb, headers, and the head swap. Crossing my fingers for 300hp. Factory is 215-220, so I think I may be in the ballpark!
 
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 03:20 PM
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From: iowa
the D2 heads were around 100cc, the D3VE heads seem to come in around 95CC most times. As I said before it's only a slight increase in total compression but the quench with make it soo much better running engine. Also if you do or don't rebuild it, at least get teh block square decked and try to get the pistons to within .010 of the deck for best quench and ability to run lower octane fuel and still get good power.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by monsterbaby
the D2 heads were around 100cc, the D3VE heads seem to come in around 95CC most times. As I said before it's only a slight increase in total compression but the quench with make it soo much better running engine. Also if you do or don't rebuild it, at least get teh block square decked and try to get the pistons to within .010 of the deck for best quench and ability to run lower octane fuel and still get good power.
Well, I just tore it apart and I'm definetly doing a rebuild, so I'll take your advice. At the least the blocks going to need to be boiled and have new camshaft bearings installed. I think I'm going to need to have the crank turned too. Hopefully the bores are ok. They look great with a very minimal ridge. Everything looks worn, but not out of the ordinary. Apparently the cam bearings were beginning to disentigrate, as I see some little specks of metal in the mains and rods, and two spots were they made small grooves in the bearings.
 
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