When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm stumped. Here is a description of my truck. 01 F-250,7.3,4X4,CC,4" lift,35" pro comp xtreme.
I got tired of replacing my factory hub unit . So I decieded to switch to the dynatrac unit , so I could stop spending $300 bucks a pop (went through 3 sets of factorys in a 1.5 years ) . Now it seems everytime I tow my trailer ( loaded 7,000 lbs ) I have to repack my bearings. This is starting to be aggrevating . I dont think this should be happining. I use to use regular wheel bearing grease,but this last time I switched to synthetic wheel bearing grease to see if would hold up better.
Is this regular??? Any help in this matter would be very helpfull !! If you need more info just let me know , and I will do my best to give it to you.
Just to give you my driving habits . I dont race around corners, and I dont brake hard. And I do have a trailer brake on my truck.
How do you set the bearings when you repack? Do you put a slight preload on them, or do you allow a slight endplay? I used to subscribe to the theory that you should put a slight preload on the bearings, but the last time I went to Timken's site, they were recommending a very slight amount of end play, just a couple thousandths.
Another thing, with bigger tires, your brakes will get hotter for a given braking effort than they would with smaller tires, I'm sure you know that. I have been told by a mechanic that I trust that Superduty brakes are less than they should be, but I don't have any way of confirming that very general statement. I'm sure we'll get some opinions here.
I think going to synthetic grease was a good idea. Have you had to repack since doing that?
When I pack my bearings. I would tightn till the spanner socket would slip off ( 25-30 lbs ). Spin the tires a few times ,and tightn alittle more.I just repacked 2 weeks ago using the synthetic grease.
As for my brakes I do have the power slot rotors . Which reduce the heat and gas build up when braking. There is no visible heat marks showing high heat from braking on pads or rotors. I dont feel any pulling to the left or right when braking.
My original bearing lasted @100000 miles the replacement lasted @120000 miles I don't know why you are going through so many bearings. I even had 315 75 16 tires on it for the second set of bearings.
When I pack my bearings. I would tightn till the spanner socket would slip off ( 25-30 lbs ). Spin the tires a few times ,and tightn alittle more.I just repacked 2 weeks ago using the synthetic grease.
As for my brakes I do have the power slot rotors . Which reduce the heat and gas build up when braking. There is no visible heat marks showing high heat from braking on pads or rotors. I dont feel any pulling to the left or right when braking.
I am not a mechanic, but that sounds too tight to me. The procedure I used to use was to tighten the things initially to 150 lb ft while spinning the wheel (to make sure the bearings were seated), then back them off until they were loose, and then snug them to 15 lb ft, I think. That would give it a light preload.
After consulting Timken's site, I changed my ways. They say there needs to be a very slight end play. I think the procedure was to torque it to a certain value, and then back it off a set number of fractional turns, based on the thread pitch of the spindle. By using this method, you can set the end play in thousandths to whatever the specification was, without actually having to measure it.
I would recommend consulting Timken's site, and/or some other bearing manufacturers.
I think you're pulling those bearings down too tight. Do they give you a specification? I was always taught to get it close to snug, spin the wheel, cycle it snug and back a few times with the wheel spinning, and then finish it off by adding a little more tension (basically until the castle nut or lock pins lined up). That's my best crack at describing the "feel", anyway. Like I said, though, some bearing types have specs and procedures that have to be followed.
I'am woundering what kind of wheels and tires you got?
The wrong wheels with to much offset and back spacing will put extra stain on the wheel bearings.
I have a 2000 with 38 inch Ground Hawgs and 93,000 miles and have only gone through one hub assembly.
Just a thought.
rudedogii...... Im not sure of what rims are on my truck except that they are aluminum. I bought the truck from the dealership that had modified it ,and they did a couple hundred trucks the same way.16"X10" aluminum with 315/75r16 BFG.
My first factory hubs lasted to 60+ thousand miles.2nd set lasted about 9000 miles.Then I found out that they would warrenty the hubs . So they put the 3rd set on. I then replaced 1 side .
I was reading on the FTE form ,and came across somebody doing the Dynatrac install ,and the ease of servicing the bearings.Figured I would give it a try.
Now when i repack my bearings I compare them to a new set ,and fing the play between the 2 identical.I look for wear marks and heat marks.I also clean and check the races. I have an extra set just incase i need them.
Tomorrow I will look up the specifications on timkins site to see what they say.
I am also wondering if the free play in my steering box is hurting me.With the slight wandering.
Thank you all for your input ! If you can think of anything else let me know.
P.S. has anybody tried the stage 8 locking set for the dana 60 ?
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.