driveshaft! I hate it!
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
driveshaft! I hate it!
I have a 93 F250 with 6'suspension and 3"body it's a 460 with 5 spd. I have replaced the stupid carrier bearing at least 8 times on the driveshaft. I have had all the u-joints replaced. The shop said it might be the yoke on the rear axle isn't tightening it down enough and I'm getting wobble. But anyways I've seen one piece driveshafts under similar years. I was wondering if custom made is the only way to go or if there is a place I can get one? I ordered a new yoke and this last carrier bearing lasted me about a week. I haven't got the yoke yet. I'm waiting til it gets here to get another bearing. Thanks.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,978
Likes: 0
From: Central PA
Well a custom one would be fine . There r stock 1 pc on allot of reg cabs. But if a SC or SC long bed . Most I see r 2 PC (I know of a late 95=96 F250 SC sort bed with 1 Piece shaft ) . All I see is little more ground clearance with 2 .
HAve a good one
HAve a good one
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
From: Mathews Virginia
how about shimming the carrier bearinb down a little there are premade shims out there Skandocious had something about them in a post maybe this will help cure some of the hard angle that the bearing is being subjected to with your lift !
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Yeah I made a 1/2" thick block to go in between and lower the angle and still had the same problem. .I'm hoping this yoke will solve the problem. I'm tired of carrier bearings. If I could do it myself I would have a problem but I have to take it to the machine shop everytime I want it done to get it pressed on. It's bullsh**. Thanks for the help though. I never paid attention to what cabs or bed size the one piece I saw.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,816
Likes: 1
From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Yeah make sure you've got plenty of shims on the carrier bearing. I believe the rule of thumb is 1/2" of shim for every 1" if lift (body lift doesn't count since the transfer case isn't being lifted higher away from the rear axle. So with 6" of suspension lift you should have around 3" of shims.
Next, and probably MORE important than carrier bearing shims, is shimming your rear pinion angle. Meaning, putting wedge shaped shims under the spring pack to point your pinion more up towards your transfer case.
Next, and probably MORE important than carrier bearing shims, is shimming your rear pinion angle. Meaning, putting wedge shaped shims under the spring pack to point your pinion more up towards your transfer case.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,816
Likes: 1
From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Maybe it was 1/4" of shims per 1" lift... 3" actuallys sounds like a lot now that I think about it. Either way, the directions on the shim kit will tell you how much to put on. Here's pics of mine, I've got a 4" suspension lift and I think I've got around 1.25" of shims.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,816
Likes: 1
From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Make sure to reread my last post, I edited the text a couple times after I posted it.
And it should be fine to make you're own shims as long as they all mate together on a very flat edge, you don't want ANY play in those at all. Once bolted down tight, they should be as solid as a SOLID block of steel. I bought mine, I believe they're made by Pro-comp and the kit came with somewhere around 2" worth of shims. I think 2" would be ample on your lift, and don't forget the differential shims!
And it should be fine to make you're own shims as long as they all mate together on a very flat edge, you don't want ANY play in those at all. Once bolted down tight, they should be as solid as a SOLID block of steel. I bought mine, I believe they're made by Pro-comp and the kit came with somewhere around 2" worth of shims. I think 2" would be ample on your lift, and don't forget the differential shims!
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
i just looked for them do you know what degree I would need? pro comp has 2.0, 2.5, 4.0, 6.0, I'm assuming 6.0 would be what I need but not sure you have any idea? And by the way summit has them for $16.95 pair
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
I have a 6" plus a little suspension lift on my 1996 standard cab F-250. I have a 6 degree shim in the rear to clock the rear pinion upwards, for the driveshafts, I used Bronco rear shafts for both the front and rear of my truck. After I rebuilt the double cardan joint assemblies, I took them to the driveshaft shop and had them lengthed to fit. They both perform great. Unless you are running a torque monster, any year Bronco rear shaft will do. The early ones are smaller in diameter that the later ones. I hope this helps.